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Sounds like a short in the full pump wiring. Might be a good idea to tow it to your dealer and have them go through the wiring.
One blown fuse could be a fluke. Two blown fuses= a problem.
3000 miles across the Atlantic is rather a long tow.........
I will also need a tug boat and an inflatable Z06 :lol:
Seriously, I got towed home by the recovery truck, fitted a 30 amp fuse and the car runs, but not sure for how long and it should be drawing that sort of current.
Where I live, you know Big Ben, Houses of Parliment, Buckingham Palace, The Queen, need I go on?
The consequence of this is..........
NO DEALERS!
So I Need YOUR help!
Thanks.
[Modified by vetteheadracer, 9:41 AM 1/6/2004]
Oh Man! This sucks!
Well, I can add that IMO if a higher capacity fuse does not blow right away, then it's relatively safe to say you don’t have a "short", but rather an increased load for some reason, apparently related to RPM’s, etc. (You said it idles fine, but when driving it fails.) Problem is, I don’t have a shop manual, so I have no idea what components are in the circuit fed by this fuse. :confused: Maybe someone with access to an electrical wiring diagram for your year can chime in? And do you know how to operate / have access to a Volt/Amp/Ohm meter? GOOD LUCK!
Thanks for the posting. I am gonna get under the car tonite and try to see if something obvious is wrong. I am gonna buy a multimeter (no I don't know how to work one, but how difficult can it be?)
I am trying to get GM Uk (known as Vauxhall) to carry out the work.
One UK Corvette dealer said and I quote. "We only carry out warranty work on cars we have imported".
i.e. F**k Off if you didn't pay over the odds and buy the car from us.
Hey man,sorry to hear about your trouble.I would not operate that car with a
30A fuse in the fuel pump circuit. It's very likely that you have an intermittant
dead short in that circuit and increasing the amperage of the fuse will allow
damage to occur before it blows the fuse. The wiring for the fuel pump can be
accessed by removing the left rear wheel in order to get to the galvanized
steel cover that protects the fuel cell on that side.If you can get the car on a lift that allows you to inspect the complete undercarraige you should be able to visually inspect about 90% of that circuit and quite possibly find the problem. Good luck,and while you are checking the wiring put in the correct fuse. :yesnod:
From: Admit Nothing, Deny Everything, Make Counter Accusations.
Re: 2003 Z06 Dies (vetteheadracer)
fitted a 30 amp fuse and the car runs, but not sure for how long and it should be drawing that sort of current.
This is a really bad move. Put the stock fuse back in and fix the problem. The extra 10A of current can melt the insulation off the wires in the circuit.
I am no electrical specialist but you could try to measure the amperage across the fuse with a amp/volt meter. It may give you an idea of just how much current is flowing across the fuse and/or if the current spikes (as in when you rev the motor).
From: Isle of View "Mofo skated me, that was my up!"
Re: 2003 Z06 Dies (vetteheadracer)
Damn! Don't scare me like that! After reading "My beautiful vette lost her life yesterday" in C5 general "2003 Z06 Dies" takes on a whole new meaning! Count your blessings! :eek:
Checked out the resistence across the circuit last night.
Should be 20 Amps / 13.8 Volts = .69 Ohms
Is 13.8 Volts / .376 Ohms = 36 Amps :eek:
No wonder it blows a 20 amp fuse..........
I am awaiting a call from Chevrolet Europe as to who I take the car to to get the work done under warranty.
That all looks good on paper. It sounds like the fuel pump itself. The fuel pump is a DC motor which runs all the time when the car is running. That reading you got does indicate a problem with the pump itself. I had that happen to a pickup several years ago.
Does anyone know if the fuel pup is located in the fuel cell?
From: Admit Nothing, Deny Everything, Make Counter Accusations.
Re: 2003 Z06 Dies (vetteheadracer)
Checked out the resistence across the circuit last night.
Should be 20 Amps / 13.8 Volts = .69 Ohms
The fuel pump is not going to run on 20a of current. It probably runs on less than 5A. The 20a fuse is just there to prevent the fuel pump power supply lines from burning up in case of a short to ground.
Make sure that you are measuring the resistance of the pump properly. You could also hook an ammeter up to the fuel pump fuse, run the car for a few seconds, and then get a real reading of current draw. That would be more accurate then trying to plug your resistance readings into OHMS law. You can also check for continuity between ground and the output side of the fuel pump fuse. I suggest getting a shop manual and following the diagnostic charts.
Pure resistance readings on a circuit containing anything active (ie: pumps, solenoids, actuators, electronics) can be misleading. Better to run the device and measure the current directly. This could be difficult though without specicialist equipment. Your multimeter likely has a 10A current limit.
See if you have any friends with DC Clamp Ammeters that you might borrow.
A) Since the voltage is low and steady (doesn't jump to 1000 V, for example), I doubt there is arcing induced anywhere - so most likely there is now electical short, or any other issue. Hence, you are observing an electical effect not due to an elctrical cause.
B) Since pump is a mechanical device with a natrual resistance, it requires, as some fellow pointed out, about 5 A to generate magnetic field strong enough to overcome mostly mechanical resistance (and a wee bit of electical reluctance). (i) Now, should the pump's line get obstructed partially, the increased mechanical pressure requires more force from its impellers. This force if provided by a large magnetic field which is provided with a higher current. (ii) Should the bearing in the pump get damaged, it too will require more torque...magenetic field...current.
So, the most likely cause is the the pump or the fuel filter.