You've got super high LTFT values and you are setting a DTC. This is largely a result of inaccurate MAF readings. Your WOT A/F ratio is also going to be off due to the inaccurate readings. Take the car to a track or a dyno in its current form and you should find that it is not making any more power than a bone stock Z06.

For best results reprogram or go back to the stock box. FWIW the stock box is a pretty good match for the factory stock motor and stock PCM program.

 

Well....after clearing my codes, i took her out last night- and within a few miles she "coded" again. I can only assume they are the same codes again, but to be honest i was in a rush and was generally Pi$$ed about the whole thing so i didn't even check yet. Looks like i'll be trying some combo to get things back the way they were. Maybe i'll try the stock airbridge with the warhead filter and see if that works. I'm pretty disappointed that this has to happen to all of us with the only remedy being a $500 tune. My buddies already put-off about it and probably will not purchase one now because of this.....when i had him sold on one before. I just wish there had been some sort of disclaimer to us '03-04 owners warning us that we'll prob. be lean and will require re-tuning.

 

After reading this post awhile ago i posted asking any tuner or vendor to take this up. I am offering to buy a Blackwing and Corsa Indies if they will try to offer a solution. I know it's a weekend, but I have gotten no responses. Pretty funny, no vendor wants to sell over a $1,000 in parts. Wish I had a good tuner a little closer.

 

Get a VR1B, No codes, no BS in over 5k miles. Well worth the extra 150 bucks, and it DOES make more HP! Nuff said.

 

Well, i put the old box back on. No more codes....everything is perfect like it was. I couldn't really make the warhead filter fit the stock airbridge....it's too large. I have no idea what the "zip tie" method even is. So my Stinger sits on a shelf in my garage....collecting dust until i get it tuned i suppose. Any good tuners in the NOVA area? BTW....Mark- has yours coded yet?

 

New77,
The Warhead doesn't connect to the airbridge, it connects to the MAF. It should fit. I put the stinger back on and it threw codes after six starts as always. I then pulled it off and noticed the rubber coupler that connects the back of the MAF to the sirbridge has two notches in it. They are to accomodate the tabs on the MAF. My MAF only has one tab so the second notch may be where unmetered air is getting through. Hard to imagine anything could get through if the clamp is nice and tight. I used some duct tape and sealed the connection between the back of the MAF and the airbridge. In a week and a half through many starts and about 250 miles, I've only gotten one lean code. And it was just one bank. Before I was getting both banks every six starts. A big improvement.

I don't know if the duct tape has made the difference or not. But it's worth a try for anyone with this problem. It can't hurt and the cost is a roll of tape. I'm going to monitor the situation for a couple more weeks and see what happens. I'll let everyone know how it goes.

BTW, the ziptie mod consists of removing the cover of the stock filter housing and using two zipties to hold the filter in place. My experience leads me to believe it is of little value.

mark

 

Soon after I had a new halltech TRAP induction, my engine reported lean codes. This can fixed by reprogramming with LS1 Edit, but I decided to return to the stock air filter and leave the computer alone.


[Modified by jerome, 5:52 PM 6/28/2004]

 

Thanks for the reply again Mark. It's my fault i wasn't as clear in my reply...i know that the filter connects to the MAF....i just had problems with it saying on for some reason. I do remember seeing the little "notches" you were talking about.
On another subject....for the hell of it i called my local Chevy dealer and asked the service dept. techs about the cost of reprograming the computer after putting the complete intake system on. I explained about the lean codes, clearing them, ect. He said that this would cost $75.00 to reprogram. That's it?!? Is this the "LS1 Edit" or whatever you guys speak of that i thought was supposed to cost $500? Sorry for my ignorance in this matter.....but i was assured that this $75 program would remedy and "re-learn" the computer for my car (i explained everything like i said). $75 is something i'm ready to fork out now if this works. What else is involved with this tune.....or what am i missing guys? Thanks...

 

I put a Haltech TRAP on my Z last year. No problems until last month when I too got a lean code. Took it to the local chevy dealership. They cleared the codes, put on the stock intake system and ordered a new rubber fitting for the hose going to the filter. Today they put the Haltech back on and said it's not running lean any more. I hope they're right, time will tell. Also I did notice a differance SOTP after they put it back on.

 

NEW77GUY, that's not the edit...if it works, go for it.

 

If they will clear up the problem for $75 go for it. I'm a little hesitant to go to the dealer for fear they might make a warranty issue out of it. The $500 tune is a dyno tune where they get the maximum rwhp and torque out of you setup as well as clearing up the lean code issue.

mark

 

Anyone looking to sell theirs ??

Shawn

 

This whole string is very discouraging.

 

The light came on again yesterday. Both codes this time. Cleared them again. I may go to the dealer and see if I can get $75 dollar reprogram like Newguy. I eally don't want to take it off because it does run much better than the stock setup. The car shows absolutely no ill effects other than the check engine light. It idles rock steady, no pinging (at least I don't hear any), no hesitation. It just goes!

mark

 

I hear ya....mine did the same thing. No issues, no noise, just a light. I'm back to stock now anyway. I have a Borla on the way....so after i throw that on i'll make sure there's no codes. My buddy just put his Borla Stinger pipes on his '04 coupe and they rock. No codes or anything. Hopefully the Z will be good too. After i finish the exhaust, i'll put the intake back on- and take it to the dealer for the $75 deal thing. Who knows if it will work or not. If i keep throwing codes....i may just sell the intake. I really like the look and performance aspect of it too...i just don't want any waranty issues down the road. I know the Hall's have bigger issues to deal with now....but i honestly wish someone would address our concerns- or at least put a disclaimer saying that if you buy this intake, and have an '03 or '04 (that typically run lean from the factory) you WILL have to have your car re-programmed with an EDIT (which will prob. void your waranty) or you will throw lean codes all day that my hurt your car in the long run. My money says many people have already read this thread and have decided against a purchase.

 

So I guess the only real alternatives are the Vararam which is impossible to put on and made cheaply or the Blackwing which really isn't all that effective.

 

THe Vararam install is not that difficult, and the quality is not bad at all. Mine fit together quite well, and the K&N filter is easy to get to for servicing. I think if you do a search here and on the other forum you will find that there isn't much history of Vararam intakes throwing codes on any year ZO6's.
(mine is an '03) IMHO best CAI available for our cars, bar none!

 

I don't think the dealer is going to solve this with a reprogram for only $75. You need to make changes to your Injector Flow Rate and MAF calibration and I don't even think they have the capability to change those parameters their Tech II. I am not positive but I think the only thing they can do with those parameters is flash them back to stock. I never heard of anyone doing a custom tune with a Tech II.

There is no way your car is running stronger than stock with your trims way out of whack like that (DTCs setting). You are experiencing a placebo effect. Put the car on a dyno or take it to the track and you will see. My guess is your airbox with your current tune and DTC codes is giving you something in the -5 HP to +3 HP range. Even if your tune was perfect an airbox change on an otherwise stock is only worth about 7-15 HP and this is not going to make a big difference on a 405 HP car.

You should either get a proper LS1Edit tune with your new airbox or go back to the stock airbox.

 

I went to the dealer to get the $75 "tune" and they said all they could do was flash the pcm to a stock tune based on the vin number. They said give the computer a little more time to relearn. I've had no codes for days now. The codes do seem to becoming more and more infrequent as I put miles on the intake. The car DOES feel punchier than with the stock intake. A noticeable difference. Now much of that may be the motor breaking in. I now have 2700 miles on it. I intend to leave the intake on. Other than the occasional code, the car runs fantastic. This car goes better than my '01 ever did and I had a Vortex on it. For those throwing codes, keep the intake on and give your car more time to adjust. The mechanic at the dealer said the pcm needs at least 50 start cycles to fully adjust.

mark

 

mmorse, good to know, thanks for the update.