I have C5 bought from Germany. This is export version with horrible blend lights on the rear cover. I found some differences between US and Export version is car's tech spec. Export has 344HP vs 355HP in US. Fuel consumption 19,3l per 100km vs 15l/100km in US. Acceleration from 0-60mph - is the same 5.2.
Has anybody know somoething more about these and others differences?

 

Bartek,
C5 Frederik or CR 555 could probably give you more information about the Euro differences, but I know that the headlights, side lites and of course the special rear fog lamps are all different. Also the brake calipers are all Z06. I'm sure some of the tuning specifications are also different. BTW, I'm in Germany and will be in Warsaw Tuesday. I'll send you an email later. Skyguy^^

 

Thanks Skyguy, most curious why it is 11HP less and nearly 5l per 100km more in fuel consumption. 'Special rear gog lamps' this is why I am looking for rear bumper in US. I hate this lamps.

 

I live in Canada and when I bought my vette the big difference was what came as standard equipment on the car. The Canada version of the 1SA option package is equivalent to the 1SA+1SB+1SC- the HUD from the US option packages. Plus export vettes have the 300kph/mph speedo. Also on the Canadian version I have the twilight sentinel which cannnot be turn off from the DIC.

These are some of the differences.

Also I know in Europe the Coupe has the CE stips like the Zo6 CE package

 

Is the twilight sentinel where the headlights come on automatically at dark? I'm curious if the 97 C5 from the US has this or not? I have the automatic headlights on my 95 Firebird and they drive me crazy. If the US C5s didn't get it, I'll be happy.

 

I own a C5 from Cananda and it has the twilight sentinal and the 300mph speedometer. Can anyone out there let me know how to get the speedometer to default to mph instead of kph when the car is started? I have taken the car to several dealers and have been told it cannot be done, I was told I would have to replace the intstrument cluster. The twilight sentinal cannot be disabled in the Canadian cars (which also had to have daytime running lights). One of the problems with the twilight sentinal is that it turns the headlights on very early, just as it is beginning to get dark. That bothered me, so I found a way to "fool" the sensor. I purchased a small flat flashlight, it is only the thickness of a AA battery, and is black, the same color as my interior. It has a pivoting bulb on it. I can set it on the defroster right above the sensor, and the lights do not come on. The light is barely noticable when it is on, and can be stored in the console when it is not.

 

My vette is a Canadian exported vette and I drive im mph all the time because I like to see the tire pressure in psi. My car will always default to the last unit of measurement that I have selected.

As for the twlight sentinel you can disable them on a Canadian vette by using is resistor in the sensor that is located on the dash.

Can't find the thread that explains how

 

Thanks. My car is a 1998 and defaults to kph each time the car is started. It's really no big deal, the 300 speedometer is kind of a conversation piece. Anyone out there know how to disable the twilight sentinal??

 

here is tte info I used to disable my twilight sentinel

Following information obtained on the forum, I did it as follows:

1. I used a CREDIT CARD to 'work'/loosen and 'pop out' the dash top defroster grill..

2. The Twilight Sentinel (TS) sensor itself comes in a base/housing that plugs into a female socket on the left hand underside of the defroster grill. It simply screws into its defroster grill socket, requiring only a 1/4 clockwise turn to 'lock' it into place like (eg.) a tail light bulb into its socket.

3. Before I did ANYTHING (even unscrewed the sensor from the grill), I tied some *black* fishing line (about 4 feet worth) around the ACTUAL WIRE connecting the sensor to the harness, ***JUST IN CASE the whole thing should accidentally slip down into the dash during the process***, so I could pull it up again... (THAT WOULD BE A PAIN - the head lights would then ALWAYS be on when the car was running, and trying to fish it out again looked like it would NOT be easy...).

4. I THEN unscrewed the sensor from the defroster grill.

5. THEN, the sensor itself simply plugs into a male connector on the end of the wiring harness lead, so I unplugged the sensor from its harness connector. (I used a small jeweller's screwdriver to release a clip to allow the parts to be separated).

6. I then reinstalled the (now disconnected) sensor back into the defroster grill (for 'looks' only, since it's now non-functional),

7. Next, I bent the leads on a 4.7K OHM ? Watt resistor that I picked up today (6-pak for $1.49; needed only one), and plugged the resistor leads into the contacts on the end of the male wiring harness connector. (Real nice fit - tight but not too tight).

8. I then taped the resistor/connector up to prevent shorts and provide further insurance against them coming apart, using black electrical tape.

9. I then ***taped the connector to the sensor housing*** , the objective being to help ensure that it wouldn't flop around/rattle/make noise if simply left loose.

10. I then looped and tied the fishing line through a couple of bars in the defroster grill, leaving only about 4" of slack to its tie point back on the wiring harness, and cut off the surplus line with scissors - JUST IN CASE THE ELECTRICAL TAPE SHOULD EVER SOFTEN/COME LOOSE FROM HEAT IN THE CAR and the resistor/lead might decide to separate from the sensor and drop down into the dash as mentioned above and cause noise/be difficult to retrieve...

11. I then reinstalled the defroster grill and 'voila'.

 

Now I'm glad that the 97 I'm going to be getting is from Florida! I don't want the twilight sentinel, and I'd much rather have the speedo and all the DIC readouts staying in imperial mode all the time instead of metric. I just wish it didn't take so long to bring cars across the border though!