Having done my C4 top-mounted stat, I was wondering what people have done when changing their side-mounted stats in the way of coolant. Do you drain some coolant via the coolant drain plug first? If so, how much do you drain?

Also, if you do drain first, is there a worry about subsequent air bubbles after refilling?

I'm also interested in knowing where I can get a 175 or 180? Everywhere I've looked, suppliers who sells after-market t-stats also include the housing. Is that just to rip us off? Should I just cut off some coils, or make some kind of spacer? Anyone with experience in any of these department, I'd appreciate some hints.

I'm stock, sans for Halltech Stinger and future cat-back, no plans for heads/cam, live in an area where it gets friggin HOT in the summer, and ping becomes chatter in the heat, especially with water for gas. Already going to try Torco, but I also want the car to run around 200 and not 220.

 

Slow down there bud. The C5 T stat is designed way different than the C4 and the housing is part of the stat. There is a TECH TIP that details the proper method of recalibrating your own stat. You cant just cut the spring. Please do not make the mistake of going too low on the stat setting.
Fan re-programming goes hand and hand with lowering your engine temp. You should do both
Once the TEC TIPS are back on line check out the one for the thermostat.

BC

 

100%. You need to do a little more than what you think.

 

Thanks, guys, but I'm already aware of re-programming the computer's fan control setting. I didn't know that the thermostat is part of the housing. When I look at the microfiche schematic it shows them as separate pieces. At first glance, you'd think if they're separate pieces, you should be able to get just the stat element itself. But, ok, let's say I have no choice.

What about the process of changing? Either of you done it? I want to know if it's best to drain some coolant first, and to what level, and then if there are any issues with trapped air in the system. I prefer to not let the coolant just drip out all over the bottom of the engine if possible, you know what I mean?

And, don't worry, I'm thinking of 170 or 175, if there is such an animal, otherwise I'll go to the 180. Besides, if the car stays too cool with the 170 range thermostat (which I doubt is possible in my local area), I can always re-program the computer to a higher "fans on" setting to offset the stat opening too soon in milder weather. But, I'd rather have the car run a little cooler than optimal than continue to ruin it via detonation. And, yes, I'm considering retarding timing over the issue. In fact, I'm weighing the option of changing timing for different weather, too.

Thanks! :-)

 

the Best thing for you to do is Buy a 160 stat for the summer ,lower your fan settings and keep your stocker for the colder months,... it takes less than five minutes to swap stats, with less than a pint of coolant lost..I do not drain anything.. .but only lost to a catch can.,,, I replace the pint or so with fresh dexcol/ I change my stat twice year/// I take advantage of the 160 stat for the summer to keep the car cool it doesnt see 160 too often ( usually in the 180/200 range unless Im on the highway doing 70... then I might see 170/180. and on a cool evening I turn off my fan controler and use the stock settings from the PCM...

 

you can get a separate 04 thermostat & no housing from fichtner (a sponsor here),he just got some in,I found out too late as I just put a 160 because I just had it dyno tuned(heads/cam),he's sellin' em for $20 plus s&h,I think mid america sells the 175 t-stat.

 

[QUOTE=Evil-Twin it takes less than five minutes to swap stats, with less than a pint of coolant lost..I do not drain anything..but only lost to a catch can.,,, I replace the pint or so with fresh dexcol ...[/QUOTE]

How in the heck do you only lose a pint. You must be super fast. I lose at least a gallon when I pull the stat.

 

[QUOTE=sxe60]Yeah, me too.

Swapping the stat twice a year seems a bit cumbersome, I guess it pays to live in Hawaii or South Carolina and Florida. These places climate changes aren't great enough for me to be that concern. Plus I thought the cooler the block the better?

Just asking not blasting.

Micah

 

Eh, braddah, howzit? I one Hawaiian transplant to Haole-land. Wha kine stat you running? Stay stock o you wen foah da 160? What yo temps stay at?

Mahalo, bra.

 

[QUOTE=sxe60][QUOTE=Evil-Twin it takes less than five minutes to swap stats, with less than a pint of coolant lost..I do not drain anything..but only lost to a catch can.,,, I replace the pint or so with fresh dexcol ...[/QUOTE]

I do this twice a year: with the car cold the stat is closed so when you remove the hose from the stat no collant leaves the engine because the stat is closed... I slide the radiator hose clamp up the hose then remove the hose from the stat housing... and tuck it high and dry ubder the heater hose which is right there.. so far no coolant loss.
You need to have the other stat ready to go in including greasing the oring in place with dielectrice grease.. you need to have some anti sieze thread compound right there too...
remove one of the two bolts on the stat housingthe other bolt will still be tight...
after removing this first bolt... apply some anti sieze on the bolt.
now apply some pressure towards the engine block with one hand and loosen the other housing bolt with the other hand. remove the bolt holding the housing to the engine, place the bolt next to the tube of antisieze... with that same hand grab the new stat... pull the old on off and put the new one in place.. this takes 2 seconds... and if you are as fast as me you can do this without loosing too much coolant.. less than a pint... the new stat is cold so the valve is close... there is no collant pressure so you can hold the housing to the engine block choking off and loss of coolant.. with one hand hold the hosuign and with the other... grab the bolt with the anti sieze on it... runit up and snug it tight...this will hold the housing in place and hold back any coolant.. now apply anti sieze on the other bolt and run it up to torque spec.. now grab the radiator hose and slip it on then slide ddown the clamp.. Now fill the coolant tank with fresh 50/50 dexcol. start the engine , check for leaks.. allow the engin to come up to temp... with the cap off... remember the stat is closed and the engine will heat up without coolant circulation... once the stat opens shut down the car and allow to cool.... refill again with coolant.. put on the cap.. the sytems needs 16 lbs pressure to operate properly.. take the car for a drive and check out the new stat..
bring the car home.. let it cool down... final fill of the coolant and your done.. the actual stsat switch takes a few seconds... the whole prceedure takes five minutes ... the coolant heat up and cool down takes longer but you can se its not very hard.. and Ive done this ten times, and never any problems..

 

The stat I am running is the 160 and the temp is about 190 on a hot day like today, it ran at 191 and about 185 on H-1. It is usually about 35 degrees cooler than the stock temp.

What part of Hawaii are you from and where are you now?

Micah

 

Did you re-program your fans, too? If so, what temps did you set them to come on at?
I was raised in Waialae-iki, which is the hills up on the left if you're traveling on Kalanianaole Hwy. from Kahala Mall toward Hanauma Bay. It's pretty much smack-dab between Kahala and Aina Haina. I later lived in Makiki. My grand-uncle used to have a house on Ewa Beach, so we spent much time there.

Favorite surf spots:
South Shore - Pops, Waikiki and Islands, Ala Moana
North Shore - Haleiwa
East Shore - Portsmouth in Hawaii Kai

I'm now near Folsom Lake in California, outside of Sacramento. Surfing's been scrubbed because the waves on the lake max out at about 6 inches . However, the bass bite is on, and I hung up my surf gear in lieu of a 20 ft. bass boat with a 300hp Merc that hits 88mph on the water!

 

...or maybe I should've expected it. I called around locally to see if I could find a lower temp t-stat. I'm not having any luck finding a 170 (Hypertech 160s are EVERYWHERE), so I thought I'd take a chance on a "reputable" dealership.

I ask the parts guy if they stock any t-stats of lower temp than stock and he says. "If you put in a 170, it will mess up all your sensors and your computer!" Flat out, no comment about performance mods, computer tweaking, nothing!

I was so shocked to hear him blurt that out, that the only thing I could think of in response was, "Oh, good. I'm glad to hear it because that's what I'm trying to do."

He said, "What?" And, I just hung up.

When I worked at dealerships, parts and service people were professionals. So far, my experience has been that they're all just like salesmen! What a trip...