How do slotted rotors reduce brake dust? I agree about the performance aspect though. Every inch counts in a panic stop. I plan to keep the stock pads.

 

I have read several postings in various places that brake dust reduction was observed after installation of slotted rotors (assume this referrs to slotted / drilled). I suspect much of the dust dispurses via the slots and holes behind the wheels instead of shooting out towards the front.

 

I have drilled rotor's on all four wheels, the front's get real dusty quick. So I don't think the drilled holes dissapate any of the brake dust away from the rim. Just have to change pads and see if there is any change. Worse case I'll put the old pads back on.

Mike

 

Bummer .. I never had them personally but very clearly recall a few folks saying they saw a significant reduction of brake dust collecting on their rims afterwards on several threads over the past few months. Since they dont really provide much of a performance advantage for street driving and tend to crack under hard usage, I guess there isnt much to the slotted/drilled rotors other than looking a little cooler. Guess I will have to look into them a bit more as to whether they are worth doing.

In any case, I dont find the dust that much worse than other cars I have owned, so I personally would still take the dust that comes with better stopping power.

Hope the ceramics work for you and meet your needs

 

whats up with the outrageous shippign on gm parts direct?

they want 19$ to ship frotn brake pads, then 15 $ per front rotor

so 2 rotors and a set of brake pads = $50.00 !!!!!!!!
This is from NC to GA.

 

Cheap pads???? The pads dust a lot but have to be the best stopping pads on the market, bar none. Those "cheap" brakes can stop on a dime with no problem....I know this from experience (I have to stop a lot...he he he).

 

The shipping amounts seem to vary but they say it is also a handling fee to keep their cost down. To me I got everything for under $300 bucks to my door which was about $300 cheaper then everywhere else I checked. I have ordered a lot of items through them and it averages out. I have got cheap shipping prices on stuff as well. At least they send the right items, and they are original parts.

 

Oxymoron much?

 

from my understanding rotors that are cross drilled after the rotor is made are likely to get stress fractures, but rotors that are constructed with the holes in place do not have this problem....correct me if i am wrong. the only thing weird about this statement is the term cross drilled...isn't that implying that they are drilled afterwards....someone chime in please.
thanks

 

Not sure. I was going by their description. This info would be nice to know if you are tracking your car. Anyone know how the AC Durastop drilled and slotted rotors are made?

 

I've had the A/C Delco Dura Stop Ceramics on my car all summer and have had no problems. Haven't noticed any sacrifice in stopping power. I'm thinking that if you track the car, then stay with the originals. Otherwise, go for it!

 

As far as I know, only BMW and Porsche precast the holes into the rotors. Even Brembo doesn't precast the holes; their website says they have not seen any difference between precast and drilled holes.

For street use, it probably doesn't matter as long as you get good quality rotors.

For track use, the whole issue of precast, drilled and slotted rotors gets very sticky because there is much misinformation out there.

The bottom line for track use is that you must inspect the rotors during and after the event to be on the safe side. ALL rotors get stress cracks; you should see my stock rotors after 4 DE days! The argument against drilled rotors is that the cracks easily spread between the holes while the precast don't do this as easily. Either way, once the cracks go between holes it is time to replace the rotors.

The main issue with using drilled rotors for track use is that if you don't increase the size of the rotor, then an OEM sized rotor with holes will have less mass so it will not be as effective of a heat sink (which is what a rotor is BTW).

Slotting does not remove much mass from the rotor so it isn't as big of a deal regarding loss of mass. The slots do help with outgassing (although most modern pads do very little outgassing).

Probably the most relavent factor in rotors is their quality. Based on lots of track experience, I can say the stock Z06 rotors must be made of the worst stuff of any rotor that I've used. After only 4 track days they have some pretty big surface cracks with visible gaps.

I've never seen this level of cracking before (I've had experience with Brembo, Powerslot, OEM Porsche, OEM BMW). I'm putting on Powerslot rotors next. I'm using PF97 pads for anyone that is interested and DRM ducts.

 

Cool. Thanks for the info. I will probably switch back to solid rotors so I can do some DE's next year.