When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
First let me say that I am getting an alignment this week. But I was wondering if any of you had a chance to see the specs before the shop set the new alignment. All of my experience up to this point with lowering a car, or raising a truck for the matter, has involved removing the strut assembly to change springs and hopefully shocks. Of course doing this involves moving control arms and such which totally throws off the alignment. It doesn't seem to make much sense to me that lowering the vette by simply adjusting the positioning of a bolt would effect the alignment. So for those of you that have done the alignment I am just courious to know your findings.
Also, how easy is is to get a lowered vette on an alignment machine?? I would think that you would scrape the crap out of the front getting up the ramps.......
I agree, just adjusting the bolts won't make a significant change in the alignment, if it did, then you'd have to get the car aligned with ballast in the seats, etc., to take care of compression loads.
As far as getting up on the rack goes, if all you're doing is lowering within the stock hardware limits, then you'll need at most is a couple of 2x8s or something similar. The problem is usually NOT the nose, but the midpoint where the bottom starts scraping on the rack.
I thought the same thing until I wore out the insides of both rears and on front after lowering...... it was not out bad but bad enough it needed to go to the allignment shop.
As far as how to get on the lift we have a guy here that has a machine you drive on and he works from a pit....the front tires ( or rear if you back on) sit on arms that pivot in all directions for lowered cars
My background is also working on suspensions for lifted trucks with solid axles and I'm having a hard time visualizing how the toe is affected. I can see it possibly affecting the camber(SP?) or possibly the caster, but not the toe.....
JNJ,
We all know that the camber will go negative when the car is lowered, even 1".
Just think about how the wheel pivots from the tie rod ends when negative camber is added. That is where the change in toe happens.
I also find it hard to see how that happens but it does.
My explanation may not be the best but it is all I have.
When I sit in my car it drops 3/16" on the left side. That is not much but 1" is considerable. Caster, camber and toe will all be affected.
Dave
Just had mine done last weekend. First they used extension ramps to get onto the ramps, they also used a couple 2x4's to get on the extension ramps...
Ya, the toe in was out front and back. The back I didn't notice by looking at the old tires but the fronts were wearing out the inside edge. They adjusted both caster and camber in front. My car also started pulling to the right slightly after lowering...Everything effects everything else. They adjusted caster, then camber, then toe, then caster, then camber, then toe, ect... until everything was good. They even had me sit in the car while making the adjustments...
After alignment the cars steers MUCH better, goes straight and looks great. I can see the tires leaning in at the tops, I never noticed before. I had it set up to ZO6 specs.