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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 12:04 PM
  #1  
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From: Milford Ohio
Default Red Locktite

I got my Hurst sifter installed and upon installing a new aftermarket **** with the logo not lining up unless I loosened it about a half a turn I decided I should use some Locktite to hold it in place.

I think I shouldn't have used Red Locktite....
How can I get the thing off if I need to adjust the tensioning of the shifter?

Thanx in advance,
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 01:18 PM
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Heat, and a cloth band wrench should do the job. (Similar to an oil filter band wrench or chain wrench, but with a heavy duty cloth for the band.)
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 01:37 PM
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Try blue locktite. I'm using it on my **** and it works like a champ.
Good luck!
-Mike
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteC5Vette
Heat, and a cloth band wrench should do the job. (Similar to an oil filter band wrench or chain wrench, but with a heavy duty cloth for the band.)
What temperature (ballpark figure) would I have to heat it up to?
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 03:32 PM
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Red Loctite is considered "permanent", but is typically weakened by heat. I've always used a heat gun (used on heat-shrink tubing) to soften the Loctite and then remove the part by rotating it off. Loctite 242 (blue) is good for metal components, but if your shift **** is plastic, you must NEVER use 242 or 262 threadlockers. Loctite 425 is specifically formulated for use with plastic threads or components. When I start selling shift ***** (soon), I'll include some of this with every ****.
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 03:37 PM
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I took apart my console up to the dash to fix a rattle. When I had everything off, I wanted to check to see if the Hurst is still tight. I used blue thread lock (brand other than Loctite) and it doesn't budge. I skipped using any the first time and it loosened up over time (Doh). This time, I know it's on for good.
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 07:53 PM
  #7  
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The shift **** I installed is aluminum. Does the temperature of the heat have to be really high or will relatively low heat over a long time work?
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