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Brake rotor change procedure

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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 02:27 PM
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Default Brake rotor change procedure

Hey guys,

I have a 2001 vert. I just bought some baer slotted and drilled rotors and I was wondering if there was a thread on how to change brake rotors.

Last edited by HIZVETT; Nov 22, 2004 at 02:27 PM. Reason: missing parts
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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 02:41 PM
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Jack and remove front wheel and tire
Remove brake assembly (two larger bolts) - This take the entire brake assembly off.

The old rotors just about fall off. Replace w/ new rotors. You may or may not need to adjust (spread the calipers) the distance between each brake pad so they fit over the new rotor.

Repeat process for the other side.

Should take less than 1/2 hour each side.
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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 02:46 PM
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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 03:02 PM
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When removing the stock rotors, you'll also find 2 thin retaining clips over 2 of the lug studs on each rotor. You will need to pry these off to remove the rotor, and they do NOT need to be reinstalled.
They were only used to retain the rotor while the car was on the assembly line.

In fact anyone with custom wheels should make sure they remove these clips, as aftermarket wheels do not have the slight counterbore on the backside of the hub to accomodate the thickness of thse clips like the OEM wheels do. Thus, the wheel would not sit flat against the rotor.

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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Y2Kvert4me
When removing the stock rotors, you'll also find 2 thin retaining clips over 2 of the lug studs on each rotor. You will need to pry these off to remove the rotor, and they do NOT need to be reinstalled.
They were only used to retain the rotor while the car was on the assembly line.

In fact anyone with custom wheels should make sure they remove these clips, as aftermarket wheels do not have the slight counterbore on the backside of the hub to accomodate the thickness of thse clips like the OEM wheels do. Thus, the wheel would not sit flat against the rotor.

That is smart that is why you get the big bucks i bet
car looks good too
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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 05:00 PM
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You might want to add that it will require a large, long handled wrench to break those big bolts loose and a torque wrench to return them.
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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 07:49 PM
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With loctite, and a torque of 175 N.m
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 12:52 AM
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Tighten to a good grunt and a half, if no torque wrench
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by diyguy
Tighten to a good grunt and a half, if no torque wrench

Yeah, it's not like the brakes are important enough to worry about torque settings...
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by diyguy
The old rotors just about fall off.


some times yes, sometimes no. sometimes, you get demon rotors that don't think their life is over yet no matter how badly cracked they are, so you've got to take a BFH to them
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Y2Kvert4me
When removing the stock rotors, you'll also find 2 thin retaining clips over 2 of the lug studs on each rotor. You will need to pry these off to remove the rotor, and they do NOT need to be reinstalled.
They were only used to retain the rotor while the car was on the assembly line.

In fact anyone with custom wheels should make sure they remove these clips, as aftermarket wheels do not have the slight counterbore on the backside of the hub to accomodate the thickness of thse clips like the OEM wheels do. Thus, the wheel would not sit flat against the rotor.

Do the calipers have to be removed from the brake line and then bleed?

Tks
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Willfulone
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Willfulone
Do the calipers have to be removed from the brake line and then bleed?
You should be able to just hang it out of the way. Use a piece of mechanics wire or an old wire coat hanger to support it while you replace the rotors. Its not a good practice to let the caliper hang from the brake line.
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