This might be kind of long.

Thanksgiving weekend I took the Vette to the folk's house for the weekend. I took my nephew for a ride in the car Friday, didn't drive the car after that until Sun morning when I left for home.
I get in the car Sun AM after it was sitting 2 days....click click click, battery dead. I put it on the charger, get the car started, no problem. When I did this, I got the "door ajar" message on the DIC. Both doors appeared to be closed. I opened and shut the pass door, it cleared the message, all was well, and I was on my way. I just assumed that my nephew didn't close the door fully and didn't worry about it.

Car has worked fine ever since then...until today. I last drove the car Sat am this past weekend to wash and clean it. Car was then parked from Sat morning until early this morning. Get to car this morning, same ****...battery dead.

So, now I assume the stock AGM battery finally bit the dust, so I go out and drop a new Optima in it. As soon as I get it connected, the dome lights in the car come on.(both doors closed). I get in, start the car...same thing, "door ajar". I open and close pass. door, message clears and all seems well.

From this description, one would assume the pass door switch is getting flaky...BUT, I've never seen the door ajar message while driving, or anytime other than these 2 occurances, both times involving a dead battery.

COULD the door ajar message be a reaction from the failing battery (battery being the cause)?
OR after a day or two of being parked, is the switch opening like the door is open, thus draining the battery?

This one sorta baffles me. I don't want to rip into the door switch if it's not the problem...and to me, it just doesn't seem likely based on the fact I have never seen it malfunction any other time.

Any thoughts?

 

Ok, another thought...

In both instances the car was locked. Had the pass. door switch malfunctioned (car thinking door was open), Wouldn't that set off the alarm? (didn't happen either time).

 

Check your DIC for codes. Clear any and all codes. There will probably be a ton of them due to the dead battery. Once you clear the codes see if you have the same issues. Sometimes when a code is set it will cause that function to act up.

Also, check the passengers floor and foot well for water/moisture and let me know if you find any.

Bill Curlee

 

Heard this before.. Faulty BCM...
Have dealer check it out with Tech II...

 

Just what I didn't want to hear.

Anyways, yeah, ton of codes, all History, none current.

BCM:
B0502 - RH DRL circuit
B0507 - LH DRL circuit
B3482 - Backup lamp relay circuit
B2587 - Column Lock/Unlock drive (A)
B2592 - Column Lock/unlock (B)
B2593 - Column Lock/inlock drive (8)

LDCM:
B2282 - Battery #1 Fault
B2284 - Battery #2 Fault
U1064 - Loss of cummincations

RDCM:
B2283 - Battery #1 Fault
B2285 - Battery #2 Fault
U1064 - Loss of communications

SCM:
B0851 - Battery 1 out of range

RFA:
C2105 - RF TPM Sensor Malfunction
U1255 - Serial Data Line Malfunction

Reset them all, and pass. floor is not wet, and to the best of my knowledge has never gotten wet ever.

I do check for codes on a regular basis, and have never had a BCM code before, nor anything more unusual than the usual U codes.

 

Sounds like a weak/bad battery. Replace the battery and have your charging system checked out to make sure that it is 100%. With a new battery and good charge system, I doubt you will see any more codes.

BC

 

I hope that's all it was too. Since I just installed the new battery today, the car is fine right now, no problems at all.

My plan is to leave it parked and not run it for the next couple days, checking on it periodically to make sure ther's nothing weird going on.
I think tomorrow I may also check the statc current draw on it (with everything off).
Do you know what I should expect to see or what's acceptable/max draw in mA with everything (even the hood light) off? Connecting the negative cable didn't produce any unusual or excessive arcing, so I really doubt I'm seeing a major drain on it.

Thanks for your help.

 

I measured it once for another forum member who was having an issue with excessive draw. Remember this: When you first hook up the meter to the negative battery termanal the current will be high 2-3 amps. Then the BCM will go to sleep and (depending on your installed options) will read around .3 to .4 amps.

Bill

 

Bad batteries can cause all kinds of issues. I would start there and hope for the VERY best !

 

Tell me about it... I couldn't believe all the weird noises this car was making when low on voltage. Clicking and buzzing noises coming from nearly everywhere.

 

Good info to know if this ever happens to anyone else.

 

Last week when my battery died, after I jumped the car it went into "low engine power" mode. Car would not accellerate or anything.. just ran at a fast idle.. Disconnected the battery and reconnected it and it was fine.. very strange. THIS week the dealer replaced my 6 month old battery with a new one. Hopefully things will be ok!