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I am also going with the Supermaxx system too, 10 rwhp I'm not impessed, although they all claim 35 - 40 rwhp which I don't believe, I am already at 312 rwhp with a A4, blackwing & Borla's will see what I'll get when I install the supermaxx system. I'll be happy if I get half of what they claim.
I actually think you did pretty good. If you look at your final number, it is right in line with a header installation, maybe a tad low. I am at about 330 HP with headers, but I also have a very conservative tune.
I didnt get an AF print out but they hooked it up and it was a constant 11.9, for the second run, and dipped down to 11.7, then back to 11.9 for the 3rd, they say with a tune getting it up near 12.5 could get some more HP.
Mine is sitting right at 12:1. The car will lean out on the street, so don't go too lean on the dyno. You are right where I am with the tune as far as AFR and our numbers are very similar so I think you are where you should be. I don't think you will get a ton more HP if they lean it out, but maybe 5-10, just be careful of the final AFR.
10-15 rwhp is not much of a gain for what you spent. At this point I would stop buying expensive bolt on's and go straight to the Cam, valve springs and tuning for a real boost in RWHP. You will like the results much better IMO.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14
That is kind of low to me too.
That is one of the reasons I went straight to a blower and bypassed other bolt ons. If you figure that headers cost you ~$2000 (with install, dyno and tune), and H/C might be in the ~$4000 range (or thereabouts) and a blower in the ~$8000 range...
I'm waiting to dip DEEP into my engine before I crack it open - forged crank, rods, pistons, springs, valves, heads, cam, intake, oil pump - everything when I do touch it. Or maybe go all out with a 427 (if I can afford it!!!).
Headers are on my bolt on list - but 3.73:1 gears and a higher stall are money better spent (for me) - I have a A4.
But nice mod all the same. Hey, ANY mod is a nice mod.
cam is def on the list, just wanted to get the basic crap done first, I did expect more from the long tubes cat and X, I am happy that the gain was across the curve not just peak numbers, thinking about a 581/224 114 cam, still dont know if I want to go bigger for more HP, and of course the tune.
You picked up good power WITHOUT a tune. The car is pig rich. Those long LT's like to run on the lean side. Figure out where you want to go with the car........... head & cam, blower, n20 or whatever and do it once with a final tune. You will be very surprised at the results. Dynatech makes a very good header system, and when you factor in the price, I think it's the best deal out there for LT's. You MUST tune the car.
i have had nothing but problems with my supermaxx's...my car stalls every other day now. Chevy saw the code, and it was for a heated o2 sensor perf left 1 bank 1...seems the o2 sensors are further down the pipes then stock and so they don't read correctly and aren't speaking to the computer right!
i have had nothing but problems with my supermaxx's...my car stalls every other day now. Chevy saw the code, and it was for a heated o2 sensor perf left 1 bank 1...seems the o2 sensors are further down the pipes then stock and so they don't read correctly and aren't speaking to the computer right!
That is not a "header" problem. If your taking advice from the dealer, thats your first mistake. Are you sure you routed the o2 wires properly? Did you cross the fronts???????? Thats the first thing I would check before placing blame on the header. What was the specific code?????
Has your combo been competently tuned? Your figures seem low for your combo.
Last edited by 90 droptop; Dec 12, 2004 at 12:12 PM.
I would get the car up and make sure the front 2 are not crossed myself, that was my prob to begin with, also if they codes say its the rear sensors, just get the sims.