Flush mount taillight kit



Guess I like the original look on this one...
You can get all the parts you need in (2) aisles at Lowes. Someone did a write up on it that I saved. I will paste it immediately below. Right below that I will paste a PM that I sent to another member that asked me a question after I did mine. Between the 2 of them you should be all set.
--------------------Original Message---------------------
Got to Lowes and in the section with the specialty washers, bolts, etc section.
In the metal drawers they have some 1" nylon spacers.
Buy 4 of them. Go over to the screws hanging on wall and pick up 8 of the # 8 phillips head metal screws in the 2" length.
Go about one aisle over and pick up some 1/2 wide foam door weather strip.
Also get some of the rubber weather strip.
Total Cost with tax a little over $15.00
Remove tail lights. On the two outer tail lights I cut the 1" nylon spacer to 3/4".
These I used on the very outer screws mounts. I ran a piece of the foam weather strip all the way around the back of the tail light opening against the lip. This is the give a cushion for your tail lights.
I then took a piece of the rubber weather strip and layed in all the way around next to the foam. This is the make a seal when you put your tailights
so no more dirt and water can form a mud puddle under your lens.
I put a touch of clear silicone sealer on the are where the screws go into the rear fascia. Stuck the spacers on top of that, and then the tailight lens.
Total time about 30 minutes and you will have enough weather stripping left to do
-----------------------My PM--------------------
Hi Phil,
Ok, it is 8 spacers total. They come 2 per pack and are creme in color. I think the original author said buy (4) because they are 2 per pkg. After some experimentation, IMO you need to leave (2) of the spacers a little more than 3/4 length. These will be the 2 spacers on the outermost ends(most outside screws), on each side of the car.
Then you save the little "cutoff" length(less than 1/4") to use to build up or add to, the full length spacer on THE NEXT INBOARD SCREW. I found that to have it totally flush to the body it needs this little tweak.
The two inner taillights(closest to the license plate) are easy to fit perfectly flush. They require NO cutting of spacers. Use the full spacer length on all 4 screws.
I found it best to use this weatherstriping...... It is found, like he said, 1 asile over from the screws. Here is the exact packaging:
"Marine & Automotive Weatherstripe Tape" it is 3/8 thick and 1/2" wide x 10' long. Buy 2 packages of this. The package is purple and clear in color.
What you will find is that you need to fit one piece of this all the way around the inner circumferance of the well. Fit it flush with the little lip towards the back of the well. NOT way back. Then as you experiment and "dry fit" your taillight, you will find that you need an extra 5"-6" piece placed right next to the
circumferance piece on the TOP and BOTTOM of the well. This acts to firm up and STABILIZE the light itself even after the screws are tightened. You will see this yourself as you go along. If you don't add the extra weatherstrip pieces on the top and bottom of the well, the light will tend to rock "up and down" after installation.
Good luck and let me know how it turns out.

--------------------Original Message---------------------
Got to Lowes and in the section with the specialty washers, bolts, etc section.
In the metal drawers they have some 1" nylon spacers.
Buy 4 of them. Go over to the screws hanging on wall and pick up 8 of the # 8 phillips head metal screws in the 2" length.
Go about one aisle over and pick up some 1/2 wide foam door weather strip.
Also get some of the rubber weather strip.
Total Cost with tax a little over $15.00
Remove tail lights. On the two outer tail lights I cut the 1" nylon spacer to 3/4".
These I used on the very outer screws mounts. I ran a piece of the foam weather strip all the way around the back of the tail light opening against the lip. This is the give a cushion for your tail lights.
I then took a piece of the rubber weather strip and layed in all the way around next to the foam. This is the make a seal when you put your tailights
so no more dirt and water can form a mud puddle under your lens.
I put a touch of clear silicone sealer on the are where the screws go into the rear fascia. Stuck the spacers on top of that, and then the tailight lens.
Total time about 30 minutes and you will have enough weather stripping left to do
-----------------------My PM--------------------
Hi Phil,
Ok, it is 8 spacers total. They come 2 per pack and are creme in color. I think the original author said buy (4) because they are 2 per pkg. After some experimentation, IMO you need to leave (2) of the spacers a little more than 3/4 length. These will be the 2 spacers on the outermost ends(most outside screws), on each side of the car.
Then you save the little "cutoff" length(less than 1/4") to use to build up or add to, the full length spacer on THE NEXT INBOARD SCREW. I found that to have it totally flush to the body it needs this little tweak.
The two inner taillights(closest to the license plate) are easy to fit perfectly flush. They require NO cutting of spacers. Use the full spacer length on all 4 screws.
I found it best to use this weatherstriping...... It is found, like he said, 1 asile over from the screws. Here is the exact packaging:
"Marine & Automotive Weatherstripe Tape" it is 3/8 thick and 1/2" wide x 10' long. Buy 2 packages of this. The package is purple and clear in color.
What you will find is that you need to fit one piece of this all the way around the inner circumferance of the well. Fit it flush with the little lip towards the back of the well. NOT way back. Then as you experiment and "dry fit" your taillight, you will find that you need an extra 5"-6" piece placed right next to the
circumferance piece on the TOP and BOTTOM of the well. This acts to firm up and STABILIZE the light itself even after the screws are tightened. You will see this yourself as you go along. If you don't add the extra weatherstrip pieces on the top and bottom of the well, the light will tend to rock "up and down" after installation.
Good luck and let me know how it turns out.
BTW - this is my 1000th post!!!!!!!!!!!!
4 stars!!!!!!!!










I am with Zilla...I want to see pics. I have been considering these, but haven't made up my mind yet.Anyone with flush mounts on their black Vette? I would like to see pics. Thanks!!

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Disclaimer:
Modified By EM. Pretty much the same instructions just in my words on how I did it. I would like to thank D.K for the post without it I would still have crappy looking lights.

--------------------Original Message---------------------
Parts list:
8- 1/2 x .194 X 1 Nylon spacers
4- 1/2 x .194 X 1/4 Nylon spacers
8- "8x2 Pan Philips Zinc Screws" This is what it says on the package
3/8 thick and 1/2" wide x 10' long
rubber weather strip.. Haven't found what I am looking for that meets my standards on this yet.
Got to Lowes and in the section with the specialty washers, bolts, etc section.
In the metal drawers they have some 1" nylon spacers.
8- 1/2 x .194 X 1 Nylon spacers
4- 1/2 x .194 X 1/4 Nylon spacers
Go over to the screws hanging on wall and pick up 8 of the # 8 phillips head metal screws in the 2" length.
8- "8x2 Pan Philips Zinc Screws" This is what it says on the package
Go about one aisle over and pick up some 1/2 wide foam door weather strip.
Also get some of the rubber weather strip.
Total Cost with tax a little over $15.00
Rear view of car
O O Lic Plate O O
OS IS IS OS
Remove either both on one side or all at once, tail lights.
The 2 "IS" lights (inner lights closest to the Lic. Plate) will just use 4 of the 1" spacers.
The "OS" Lights (The outer most tail lights on the car)
For the two outer most screws I cut the 1" nylon spacer to just tad over 3/4".
For the inside screw spacer for the "OS" light. You will cut 3/8 of an inch off the 1" spacer and stack it with the 1/4" spacer. This should flush the OS light.
Run a piece of the foam weather strip all the way around the back of the tail light opening against the lip. This is the give a cushion for your tail lights.
Then take a piece of the rubber weather strip and lie in all the way around next to the foam. This is the make a seal when you put your tailights
so no more dirt and water can form a mud puddle under your lens.
Put a touch of clear silicone sealer on the are where the screws go into the rear fascia. Stick the spacers on top of that, and then the tailight lens.
Total time about 30 minutes.
Modified By EM. Pretty much the same instructions just in my words on how I did it. I would like to thank D.K for the post without it I would still have crappy looking lights.

-----------------------My PM--------------------
Hi Phil,
Ok, it is 8 spacers total. They come 2 per pack and are creme in color. I think the original author said buy (4) because they are 2 per pkg. After some experimentation, IMO you need to leave (2) of the spacers a little more than 3/4 length. These will be the 2 spacers on the outermost ends(most outside screws), on each side of the car.
Then you save the little "cutoff" length(less than 1/4") to use to build up or add to, the full length spacer on THE NEXT INBOARD SCREW. I found that to have it totally flush to the body it needs this little tweak.
The two inner taillights(closest to the license plate) are easy to fit perfectly flush. They require NO cutting of spacers. Use the full spacer length on all 4 screws.
I found it best to use this weatherstriping...... It is found, like he said, 1 asile over from the screws. Here is the exact packaging:
"Marine & Automotive Weatherstripe Tape" it is 3/8 thick and 1/2" wide x 10' long. Buy 2 packages of this. The package is purple and clear in color.
What you will find is that you need to fit one piece of this all the way around the inner circumferance of the well. Fit it flush with the little lip towards the back of the well. NOT way back. Then as you experiment and "dry fit" your taillight, you will find that you need an extra 5"-6" piece placed right next to the
circumferance piece on the TOP and BOTTOM of the well. This acts to firm up and STABILIZE the light itself even after the screws are tightened. You will see this yourself as you go along. If you don't add the extra weatherstrip pieces on the top and bottom of the well, the light will tend to rock "up and down" after installation.
Good luck and let me know how it turns out.



have done the flush mounts twice and taken them off within minutes because i didn't like the looks of the seals
have done the flush mounts twice and taken them off within minutes because i didn't like the looks of the sealsEric












