Won't honk when I press the steering wheel, arm the alarm, hit the panic button, nothing. The fuse is OK. When I hit the panic button I can hear something "clicking" around the dash area but no honking. It started a couple of weeks ago when I locked my doors and popped the hatch without unlocking them. The horn beeped and then after that I couldn't get the horn to work. Well I eventually got it work again by hitting the panic button on the remote. It was fine until today after I washed the car. Any suggestions?

 

There is also a relay in fuse box under hood. If you can, test voltage at horns and check connections down there. I pop the trunk with the doors locked so that shoud not have anything to do with it

 

Also, the BCM. Body Control mod, controls the horn. Take a look at that too.

 

Horn won't honk, watch for finger

 

A: Where are the horns located because I thought of that earlier but couldn't find them.
B: What about the BCM? What do I look for?
C:

 

Should be down under right headlight, PITA to see, but moisture could get in there. That's why the connector may be corroded. As far as the BCM, I don't know how to check. I would check the fuse (which you already did) and the relay first. You can check the relay with a comparable one in the fuse box (fog lights?) Then I'd check for voltage at the horns. Also, getting any codes?

 

How do I check the codes? Never had to before. It's in the DIC right? I should ad that I swapped fuses with something else and still had the problem.

 

See if any are coming up and post them, but I would check the simple items (fuse,relay,voltage) first. Remember, there is a fuse and a horn relay in the fuse box.



This is in the tech tips section:

Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
Press the "reset" button to turn off any warning messages
Press and hold "options" and
While holding "options", press "fuel" four times within a 10-Second period.
Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into the "automatic" mode, which shows each module's DTCs in a pre-set sequence: (Page No. are for the GM Service Manual)

10 PCNI Powertrain Control Module page 6-357 - 6-361
28 TCS Traction Control system ABS on page 5-86
?? RTD Real Time damping page 3-136
40 BCM Body Control Module page 8-405 LTD Page 8-727
60 [PC instrument Pane! Cluster page 8-508
80 radio page 8-213
99 FIVAC Heater Vent-Air Conditioning page 1-118
A0 LDCM Left Door Control module page 8-904 to 8-951
Al RDCM Right Door Control Module page 8-904 to 8-951
AC SCM Seat Control module page 8-1064-8-1082
B0 RFA Remote Function Actuation page 8-676
For each module, all DTCs will be displayed. If none are present in a module, you will see "no more codes" on the ICP display. There are two kinds of DTCs, "Current" and "History," designated with a letter suffix, "C" or "H". A current code indicates that the malfunction is present in the system whose module is displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed in that module sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it is possible it's evidence of a previous problem. Now solved, that was not removed by clearing codes. More likely is that a history code indicates an intermittent malfunction.

"Intermittent" are the most challenging DTCs. An intermittent may have happened only once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent in its appearance or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the IPC is displaying codes. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not Operating at the time DTCs are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger, which doesn't operate until the BCM detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a system that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a "scan tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the IPC has displayed all 11 modules, the system goes into the manual mode, which allows selection of each module, using combinations of DIC buttons. The manual mode can also be entered at any time during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except "E/M". Once the IPC displays "manual diagnostics", you may select a particular module by pressing the options button to go forward or the "trip" button to go back. Once a system is selected and a DTC is displayed, if more than one are present; press "gages" To move forward or "fuel" to go back. To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M". If you want to erase or "clear" codes, press "reset". Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory.

 

Just hope that it is not the horn switch in the steering wheel since I have heard that it an expense repair because it is combined with the airbag some how.

 

Funny you should say that because I just had that replaced in November and it crossed my mind but wouldn't it just effect using the horn on the steering wheel though? Why would you not be able to hear a honk when you arm the alarm or hit the "panic" button? BTW, I couldn't get the code thing to work

 

If you actually check the horn, check to make sure it's facing forwards. Mine was facing forwards & backwards....WTF?? When I honk, I want to blast whoever I'm honking at, not the ground, and definitely not me. I adjusted mine as best I could, but I didn't have enough loose wiring to get it perfect.

Eugene

 

OK, maybe we should start at the beginning again. Horn pad was replaced in November, why? After this was replaced did everything work normally? And only for a few weeks? Did horn work with alarm then? Did you check alarm on car? Windows down, lock car, wait a minute, reach in and unlock manually. open door. Does horn sound? Also, when you popped the trunk that time and horn sounded, did you use key fob or reach in car and used dash button?

Try this again
Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
Press the "reset" button to turn off any warning messages
Press and hold "options" and
While holding "options", press "fuel" four times within a 10-Second period.

 

Not meaning to hijack thread, but (well, I guess I am!) - how many "horns" are there?
Is it only 1 tone / pitch (sounding like a "rice" budget car), or should it have 2 pitches?
(I guess you can tell what mine sounds like!)

 

2 horns, as far as pitch I'm tone deaf so can't help you there If you don't believe me, I'll send you a cd of me singing

 

Nah, I'll just look for your post in the karaoke section!
But thanks for the reply!

 

 

TTT

 

Am I on the right track here, Bill Curlee? Glad you're checking this

 

Im in the middle of cleaning the garage. As soon as it gets too damn dark and cold out,, I will sit down and give it a look at.

BC

 

Also check the bolt that mounts the horn to the frame of the car. If it is loose the horn wont work. This was the problem with mine.
Good luck.