3:15 Performance Diff...what Would You Do?

1st - it is a great idea and mod if you make the right selection for your driving application (track, street or both)
keep in mind that you will have to have your computer re-programmed with LS1 edit, or Predator/Hypertech etc... to adjust your shift points and speedo..(for A4 guys)this will cost extra.
If you have a 273, I would upgrade at least to a 342..anything less and it's not worth it. If you have a 315, I would go with maybe 390's or at least 373... 315 to 342 is not worth the $$$ not a big enough jump.
If you go 410's you might as well get new, bigger tires cuz youre gonna need em with that stout a gear
good luck

Please don't post bad info on this forum.
We try very hard to keep this place accurate.Yes the A4 needs a reprog, but it is not to correct the speedometer. There is no speedo error when changing the rear axle ratio on a C5. Doesn't matter what year of C5 or tranny.
Last edited by Mike Mercury; Jan 11, 2005 at 06:29 PM.
Read here for details:
http://mikemercury.home.att.net/342.htm
.
Last edited by Mike Mercury; Jan 11, 2005 at 06:36 PM.
"IF you were going to upgrade what would you do and why?"

To me, the rmp/ fuel milage difference between the 3.42's and the 3.73's isn't that much. I'm not sure what future plans you have for the car but I know I am keeping my 3.15's since I plan on adding an ATI ProCharger and don't want too much gear. I did a 3.73 gear and a 3200 stall converter on my 98 Z28 along with a mild cam, intake and complete exhaust and am having serious traction issues on the street and don't want to run a drag radial unless at the track. So this time (with my 01 C5) I'm going to do it differently. No upgraded gears or converter. I was to hook A.S.A.P. and then have the car pull harder with each gear.
It all depends what you want out of the car and how far you want to take it. There is many different ways to get where you may want to go. I know for myself, a fairly stock C5 (with exhaust & Vararam) with a SC is the way to go. When I want it to drive like stock it will. And, when I want it to go like a (fill in word here), it will.
Hopefully my $0.02 helps.
Good luck!
I can honestly see that a nice change would be seen from 2:73s to 3:42s, but I have a 3:15 and wonder if this is going to a big enough gain for me to want to do, vice just moving up to 3:73s.
I respect everyone's opnion on this thread, because it is a huge matter of opnion.
Thanks and please continue with the opnions.

If it were just a weekend car I would go with 3.73
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
first you say:
I think that if you're going to swap out your gears, do it right. Going from a 3.15 to a 3.42 (to me) doesn't seem like that much of a swap. If you had the 2.73's, the 3.42's would be a nice upgrade. If it were me, the 3.73's would be the better choice - along with a nice 3500 or so stall and a TransGo shift kit.
then you say:
I did a 3.73 gear and a 3200 stall converter on my 98 Z28 along with a mild cam, intake and complete exhaust and am having serious traction issues on the street and don't want to run a drag radial unless at the track....I'm going to do it differently

it's already been said that going from the 3.15 to 3.42 is worth it if the car owner insists on running with lower traction EMT tires. And I am one of them.
With the 3.42 and EMT type tires, maintaining good traction is still a no-brainer.
So when someone asks "what is the highest rear ratio you would recommend for someone wanting to keep EMT tires" - most would say 3.42
At that point - does it really matter what ratio the car currently has?
(talking non-dragstrip cars here)
first you say:
I think that if you're going to swap out your gears, do it right. Going from a 3.15 to a 3.42 (to me) doesn't seem like that much of a swap. If you had the 2.73's, the 3.42's would be a nice upgrade. If it were me, the 3.73's would be the better choice - along with a nice 3500 or so stall and a TransGo shift kit.
then you say:
I did a 3.73 gear and a 3200 stall converter on my 98 Z28 along with a mild cam, intake and complete exhaust and am having serious traction issues on the street and don't want to run a drag radial unless at the track....I'm going to do it differently

it's already been said that going from the 3.15 to 3.42 is worth it if the car owner insists on running with lower traction EMT tires. And I am one of them.
With the 3.42 and EMT type tires, maintaining good traction is still a no-brainer.
So when someone asks "what is the highest rear ratio you would recommend for someone wanting to keep EMT tires" - most would say 3.42
At that point - does it really matter what ratio the car currently has?
(talking non-dragstrip cars here)
What type tires do you wish to run and what type of traction issues will you be faced with?
Speaking from personal experience, the 3.42s are about as high as I would want to go with runflats. And I like runflats as my "everyday" tire. I have DRs for the track now
And even if you go to the track with "just" 3.42s on runflats you, very likely, are going to have traction problems.
The reason I know is because I did just that after my gear upgrade and actually ran worse than I did with my 2.73s before I had to go to the DRs for the track. Had I gone to 3.73s I am confident that I would have smacked the wall on runflats with 3.73s.
Changing tires involves a lot of other issues as well. Tire repair kits, compressors, removing your tire pressure sensors if you will be using fix a flat products.
Runflats take a lot of abuse here, but the truth is, you can't beat them for convenience. The thought of having to plug a tire in a dangerous area does not appeal to me but I still want "performance". Hence the 3.42s. But thats just me. Someone else may and will likely differ.
I agree with Mike on a couple of counts here. If you are going to stick to the runflats then choose your gear carefully. Also your "speedometer" has NOTHING to do with a gear change.
Last edited by '06 Quicksilver Z06; Jan 11, 2005 at 07:53 PM.



I have been pressed to get the GOODYEAR GS D3s to replace current run-flat and I hope that this will help with traction issues that I have now and traction for future mods.
I want a car I can cruise the street (DAILY) and I was just trying to get some ideas from guys and gals out there that have done this mod whether or not it is worth it.
I appreciate all the threads posted on this and now that you guys no what I plan to do with the rubber maybe you can email me:
herronmp@los-angeles.navy.mil
because this will be my final post for a while do to deploying again tomorrow for a while.
Take care my friends!
Micah
"IF you were going to upgrade what would you do and why?"






Please don't post bad info on this forum.
We try very hard to keep this place accurate.Yes the A4 needs a reprog, but it is not to correct the speedometer. There is no speedo error when changing the rear axle ratio on a C5. Doesn't matter what year of C5 or tranny.
I only ask that if youre going to quote something, please do it Entirely..I also said it needs a reprogram for shift points which is true.. that way I only look like half an idiot instead of a complete one
I stand corrected
Last edited by FrankTank; Jan 13, 2005 at 10:56 AM.
Thanks,
Joe
Thanks,
Joe
I also debated hard about doing 3.73 with the blower thinking that it would be too much. So, I went with 3.42 and had them on for about 18 months until the rear end began to howl.
I recently went to 3.73 from DTE with a hardened output shaft. The additional rpm are not that bad on the interstate. I have not been to the track yet since the car is hibernating.
Over time you will get used to performance increases and want MORE!
Get the 3.73s (unless you are a wuss! Traction is really a matter of throttle control Also, get a moderate stall converter to save on the labor cost. It wil compliment the gears nicely.



Excellent performance, won't kill your gas mileage, engine RPMs reasonable on highway cruising, and they are readly available from any number of tuners that have exchanged them on MN6's that went for 3:90 or 4:10
Excellent performance, won't kill your gas mileage, engine RPMs reasonable on highway cruising, and they are readly available from any number of tuners that have exchanged them on MN6's that went for 3:90 or 4:10
Just plano good Texas common sense.....












