A few questions: How hard is it to do yourself, What type of bulb did you use, where did you buy the parts, how do you like the result?
Is it worth the expense if you only use a standard type H4 bulb?

 

I did mine, unintentionally, in stages.

First I went with a 'plug and play' kit that provided the new Euro housings and bulbs. It was marginally better, which is easy to accomplish IMO b/c the stock lights stink. However, the plug and play harness connected directly to the thin wires that were connected to the stock bulbs, and in hindsight I think those wires just don't provide sufficient power. Also, at one time, I had one of the connectors on the new harness melt, which might've just been b/c it's plastic and didn't connect well to the prongs on the bulb.

A long time later, I ordered brighter bulbs and the parts, including relays, to connect the bulbs, via the relays, directly to battery power. This latter combo is far better and I actually now enjoy driving at night. The light is nice and white, but not to the level of HID. The relay kit I bought was just parts so you had to buy separate wire and do all the soldering, mounting, etc on your own, with next to no directions. Time consuming, but not too hard if you're into that kind of thing.

I think there is now a full kit from a forum vendor that provides the new bulbs, housings, and some type of plug and play wiring harness that includes the relays. I'm not sure to what that harness connects, but if it's truly providing strong power directly to the lights, then it might be worthwhile to avoid having to make your own parts and run a bunch of wires.

There's also HID, which some folks swear by and others fear. Neither the stock (plastic) or Euro (glass) housing was made to accommodate HID, but folks are still using them. They are not legal to sell, but they are still sold. Some folks have had issues with other cars flashing back at the HIDs, while others have not.

If you live in a state that requires inspection, you might want to see in advance whether your car will pass with any of these alternatives.

 

iF YOU HAPPEN to order a set of Breathless style fixed lights, that have a rectangular main headlight and a PIAA round high beam and the plastic housing is flush with the body

If you happen to get that style, beware that the company has had a previous lawsuit and now only offers one main rectangular headlight that you can not change out the bulb. This company is using a sealed beam headlight from a 95 Chevy Camero. The blub is non-removable. If the bulb goes, then you have to replace the whole light for approx. $35

There is only one company out there who do make a sealed beam conversion kit for the lights to be able to remove the blub And they want $88. www.EuroLights.com

i'm getting the conversion kit because the stock blubs which i can not remove are a nasty yellow color, and i"M not getting the lightining that i should have. I'm finding myself driving around with the high beams on

 

I did this conversion from pfyc

http://www.pfyc.com/store/merchant.m...ode=VTLIGHTING


I found it a very easy install and well worth it. I'm not sure compared to some people who are running HID or Xenon but I'm pretty happy with the results

 

these are Breathless, eklecklers , MID america.

 

Before going with the euro conversion... Give the Sylvania Silverstars a try. I did this and it is a nice improvement over stock. Don't know how it compares to the euros..... It only takes 20 minutes to swap out the bulbs..
mike

 

correct me if i'm wrong but I thought the stock housing unit can't support the wattage from the Silverstars. It gets too hot.

 

If you really want to see where you are going, Intall the T-84 Euro lamps, a set of high current relays hooked up with heavy wire to the battery, and use 100/130 watt H4 bulbs. They actually put out more Lumens than any HID made for automotive use. The beam pattern of the T-84 is vastly superior to the HIDs. Check out Daniel Stern Lighting. The lifting motors will benefit from new brass gears that won't wear out like the factory plastic gears.
Jennifer ... seeing the way with T-84s,

 

silverstars are no more wattage than factory

its the filter on the bulb that gives the whiter color and better output

i have them and its an improvement over stock but not much i still have to drive with my high beams at night to be comfortable doing above 55
you can do the t84 euro lights for 280 bucks with bulbs if you want to build your own harness its pretty easy if you know anything about wiring or you can download a diagram from danielsternlighting.com to show you how to do it
lights will cost you 150 from your local gm dealer bulbs are 18 bucks each via daniel stern
hella relays from your choice usually about 10 bucks each plus wire you buy 12 guage via autozone, napa, pep boys about 5 bucks

 

Not HID but at least a step in the right direction

Wait for a true HID conversion IMHO



.

 

I am interested in going with the T-84 Euro lamps, but did not want to get into high wattage bulbs requiring relays, etc. What I wwould like to know is, what is the result with the T 84 lamps and a standard H4 bulb that would not require extra relays. Is it a big improvement over stock? I already have the silverstars but the problem withthe stock lamps is the light dispersion path.

 

Out of interest, if any of our military Forum members ar going to UK or Japan, GM produce a T85 headlamp. It sets the beam pattern to dip to the left for driving on the left. I have the part numbers.

PFYC have the wiring harness and the kit comes with the wiring harness, high wattage bulbs and relays.

 

I am wondering if I should go from my Euro T-84 setup with the higher wattage bulbs to the quasi HID system being offered by this new vendor, Blinglights???'hmmm

 

That looks pretty good!