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From: www.EXOTICVETTE.com - FL Cruise-In VI, VII, & VIII
Cruise-In V Veteran
St. Jude's Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Driver's door switch panel out!!
Hoping someone can help me out with some info here....
Went out for a drive last night and put the windows down. When I got on the highway I went to put the windows up and the driver's control switch panel had no lighting. Needless to say it didn't work either! The passenger side works fine. I checked the DIC and it said No Comm with the LDCM. Checked all the fuses under the passenger side and the hood with no bad fuses found on any of them.... Not sure where the ground is to the DCM or but I pulled the kick panel where the hood release is and there was a plug and a ground wire bolted to the chasis just behind the hood release in the little recess. The bolt was very loose and stripped (!?!?!) so I replaced the bolt with a new one and still nothing. Tried regrounding it with a wire from an underhood ground, nothing. Hopefully there is another ground somewhere and that's not the one? I'd hate to have to replace the DCM as I bet it's NOT CHEAP.
If anyone else has had this problem or can give me some guidance please chime in! Will pull the door panel tomorrow. If I can't figure it out maybe I can at least get that window up until I figrue it out....
From: HOW FAST WAS I GOING OFFICER? Los Angeles Hating GM Dealership Service Dept.'s Since Sept. 2004
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
First, do you have another Vette owner nearby, who would let you borrow their switch to confirm it's not just your control switch. Switch out the controls and see of it works.
If that fails, hook a test light up (ground it by clipping it to the door hinge or something metal on the car frame), unplug the switch panel from the wire harness and probe each connection in the pulg leading into the wire harness. One of the connectors will roll your window up when it makes contact with the test light. This would also confirm whether the door is getting power, but your swtiches are B/O.
If neither of the above two works, you'll have to remove the door panel and start tracing wires. I have the service manuals, so if you need my help, let me know.
If it is your switch, check Parts section or be like me and get it from Ken Fitchner for about $80.00. <----Don't ask how I know. :o
From: www.EXOTICVETTE.com - FL Cruise-In VI, VII, & VIII
Cruise-In V Veteran
St. Jude's Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Well.... I went out to the garage to find that in my slightly irritated mood last night being unable to diagnose the problem I left the key turned on! DEAD Battery!! Can't push-start it because the column is electronically locked. Had to charge it up. Got that done, pulled the door panel off, and now the switch worked! It the window went up, that was all it did though...? Then it didn't work again. Checked and there was power going to a couple leads on the switch panel.
All of the sudden the DIC starts going crazy!! LOW FUEL, REDUCED ENGINE POWER, then ABS light, then SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE ACTIVE HANDLING, A/C compressor shut off, radio shut off.... Checked the DIC codes and it was showing no communication with anything except the PCM which had no codes! I shut it off and when I restarted it was fine - for a couple minutes until it did it again. When it was fine I rechecked the codes and everything (except the LDCM still) was showing connected with codes. Most all the codes were U1016, U1064, U1040, U1096. A couple more, but that was most of them - all meaning loss of communication. I must have a major connection or ground loose somewhere. Anyone know where the major Grounds are for all the interior electronics?
Going to go try and mess with it some more - or maybe drive it off a cliff if it will drive that far
I'll be willing to bet...It's the connector between your chasis and the door. My passenger side does this on occasions i just play with the connector a little and it starts working again. I've never seen this happen on the drivers side, but it's the exact symptoms. If you need a hand feel free to give me a hand.
Chris
From: www.EXOTICVETTE.com - FL Cruise-In VI, VII, & VIII
Cruise-In V Veteran
St. Jude's Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
UPDATE:
I drove the car into an embankment, it blew up and I'm
J/K, After much searching it turns out the culprit is a loose connection just inside the door boot. Of course you can't just get to that, there's a steel plate there! Going to try unbolting that later and see what's loose. For now the little 'wiggle' regrounded the connection and no problems so far we'll see! At least I know it's just a loose ground and not the entire electrical system taking a dump...
From: www.EXOTICVETTE.com - FL Cruise-In VI, VII, & VIII
Cruise-In V Veteran
St. Jude's Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Yep, seems that anytime I've had any problem with electrical on the car (except for the 02 sensor needing to be replaced) it's been a ground connection. That's a good thing as far as costs go
Good to hear it wasn't the Left Door Control Module. I just looked up the GM List price on these for another post a short while ago and it was $227.86 for model year '03. Evil-Twin posted something along the same lines not too long ago. To the best of my memory, he said something to the effect that the wiring is prone at times to getting pinched in the door accordion which can cause problems similar to yours with the door/window controls. Good luck with the fix!