I have a 98 A4. finally have the chance to sit down and spend some time with my baby. To butter her up I got her nice and clean and took her to the Corvette show at Oldtown yesterday. Today I wiped her engine down and polished the wheels, and put some r134 in her. So the next thing is checking some of the codes. Here's what I got:

BCM 2723 H

HVAC B0367 H
B0441 H C


I also have an issue sometimes with my security light coming on when I start the car. Well it stays on I should say. I usually turn off the car pull the key, put the key back in, restart, sometimes Ill open the doors, and even unlock, lock, unlock. Sometimes these steps make it go away. Other times I sit there for a few minutes looking like an idiot restarting my car over and over.

Today when I went to start the car, I put the key in, tried to start it, but it did nothing. The radio, A/C, all came on as normal, but the engine wouldnt start. I tired again a few times, finally pulling the key and reinserting it, then it fired up as normal.

I have a spare key, but havent tried it yet. However this is my only FOB.

Yesterday when washing the car, I kept the key in my pocket so I was driving the car nuts with it locking and unlocking. So now Im still trying to reset it to work right for the keyless entry. I have it turned off at the moment.

I'm doing some research as I make this thread, but figured theres plenty out there with the knowledge and experience who may be able to assist me. The HVAC codes Im not too concerned with. Those can wait. The BCM code is what I want to figure out.

 

Update: I just tried my other key. It turned and started with no issue and the security light didnt stay on. This has happened with the main key I was using so Im not sure if I got lucky or if this key is a fix.

However I tried turning the keyless entry on the FOB back on. The car unlocked, which it already was unlocked. Then locked, while I still standing next to it. So how can I get this FOB back to working right for keyless entry? The FOB does work to lock and unlock with the buttons, its just not working right for keyless entry.

 

Nothing? Not even a "your on the right track"

How about some insight on the passive entry issue?

 

Sounds to me that if your second key works just fine then the "pellet" on your first key needs some cleaning. I heard of people use pencil erasers on them to "polish" them which of course cleans all the junk off them. The ignition switch "reads" the resistance of the pellet which keeps the wrong key from starting your car. A security feature. If its dirty and can't be read correctly, then the security light comes on, etc... If very difficult to read, it won't even start the car. Does this all sound familiar? Others have cleaned the pellet using alcohol or metal cleaner. Another problem (which is VERY common) is for our older cars (I have a 98 as well) to have ignition switch problems which is caused by carbon buildup on the relay contacts inside the ignition switch. Check out the tech section of the forum for highly detailed info on this subject. Hope this gets you started on the right track.

 

Thank you so much! Ill clean that key up and give it a try. I really hope its nothing else.

Any idea on how to get my passive entry to work right again? The car locks with me standing next to it and doesnt unlock unless I press the button.

 

Not quite sure on the passive entry question. I have passive entry on my FOBs as well, but I prefer that they be turned off and then I simply press the buttons when I want to enter or lock the vehicle. (I really don't trust the passive feature to work correctly and didn't want to depend on them... I was afraid I'd come back to my car and it would be either missing or ravaged by crooks because I depended on passive mode to lock it and it didn't work...). I just slide the passive switch to the off position and don't worry about it. I've also heard that you can use the FOB off a 2000 C5 on our cars. They're the same as ours with the passive feature removed. However, the 2001-2004 FOBs will not work.

 

So I have started having this issue again. Looks to clean the contacts, disconnect the battery and turn the key off to crank 50-100 times?

Do 02-04 cars suffer from this?

 

No, not specific to any year models. If you're having this issue again, then it could be that the inside (interior) of the cylinder lock has problems. Or possibly, you might be a victim of the famous ignition switch problem. Those symptoms include the ones you've described as well as others. Let's try the easy stuff first. Besides the cleaning of the pellet, have you sprayed any contact (electrical) cleaner inside the lock cylinder? So many possibilities, but you'll just need to dig to get to the root of the problem.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...n-circuit.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...n-circuit.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ont-start.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...n-circuit.html
Did you notice that several of the people in those threads with your same problem, the ignition switch needed to be either rebuilt or replaced. Its a very common problem with our cars. I did my ignition switch a few months ago. I didn't buy a new one though. I rebuilt mine as per these instructions:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
I'd suggest you do this. It's free, just takes a little time. While I had my ignition switch out, I took the unit to my local locksmith who rebuilt the lock cylinder and cut me a new key as well for $20. If you don't want to mess with that, you can just purchase a new ignition switch for about $60-70. Good luck with all.

 

Now we are really getting somewhere. I didnt find any of those threads when I searched lol.

My buddy will be here in 20 minutes, hes got the contact cleaner in his garage so we are going to try spraying that down into the ignition. Im also going to try cleaning the key some more.

All those guys are having the same issues plus more. That last one with the Z scares me. I was starting to think maybe Ill just upgrade to new vette and why not a Z and hopefully not have the problem, guess not lol. My buddies that live in my complex are good with stuff like this so if the issue continues Ill get them to do the electrical tests mentioned.
Thank you so much. I owe you a beer!


New ignition requires new keys, which then makes them different than the doors right? rebuild would be a much better idea i think

 

A quick tip. I do IT work for a living so I know how to find most stuff pretty easy. Here's the trick. Use Google. The search feature on CF is somewhat limited. When you search on Google, do something like "BCM 2723 C5 Corvette" or "B2723 Corvette Forum" or similar. You'll find a LOT of threads about virtually every problem that's ever occurred on our Vettes. Just put your subject matter in the search bar then add the C5 Corvette to it. You'll get most hits from here, but you'll also get hits from other Vette forums where other guys have had the same problems. We'll get to the end of this. I'll hold ya to the beer offer !! Finish your profile and I'll know where I have to travel to collect..

 

I tried IT, lol learned Im not a computer savy person haha. My gf is though. Ill do that though, simple enough.

I scrubbed the key with alcohol again. Got in to go get some dinner real quick, light came on instantly. Turned her off, back on, no light. After getting home, I tried the contact cleaner. Sprayed the key and in the ignition a lot. Tried it a few times, finally got the security light to come back after about 6 times. I sprayed some more in there and will let it sit until tomorrow morning when I go to work. It looks like Im going to be opening up the ignition though. Seems like a lot of work to get there but that thread from bill curlee seems pretty damn detailed. Atleast the cars good to go other than these 3 codes. My buddy asked me is it really a big deal. I said at the moment no.. but the yellow security light drives me batshit haha.

I live in Orlando, FL. Speaking of profile. I cant figure out how to remove my old vette and add my new one. Like I said, not to good with computers haha EDIT: figured it out. Easier to do on the actual computer than my phone.

 

Nice fun place Orlando. Yah, much easier to work on stuff on a PC than the cell phone.

The ignition switch isn't too bad. Just take out the console and the bezel following these instructions:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...splay-fix.html
Then use the ignition switch link I gave you previously to do the work. Not that hard at all. I had my switch out in about 20-30 minutes. I spent maybe an hour messing with it and cleaning the contacts, then about 30 minutes to re-install everything. No problems. Just take your time. Are you having any other problems like wierd lights on the dash, etc coming on and going off that are unusual? That might point even further to bad contacts in the ignition switch. Also need to ask, I think you said your car was an 02? How many miles? Not unusual for these older cars to need a bit of TLC.

 

Shes a 98 with about 84k on her. No other lights, everything else seems to be good with her. Im ready to give her the tlc as long as it doesnt break my wallet. Although, I am giving serious though to selling her as well. I could pay off my bike and another loan then buy a newer car and still have the same amount in bills. So thats a thought. Itd be tuff to let go of her though, shes clean especially for her age. When i was looking for a C5 I found this one was in better shape than some newer ones. It had 71k on it and the guy was really trying to sell bc his kids college tuition was due. If i let go of her, its going to be for the right price, and for some else I really like. Probably a 6 spd this time. Buts gotta be in atleast equal shape as mine.

 

Nice. Mine's a 98 as well, so we'll be talking about the exact same things. Mine's also an A4, not a 6 speed, so again, exact same. My car has 123k on it and I bought it with 112k but motor had mods done last summer so engine probably has 500-800 miles on it. The real $$ hogs are the engine and transmission stuff. These little things won't cost you much. Console coming out, since I've done it several times now, I can have it out in about 10 minutes. Only a few bolts (4), 3 torx screws and connectors for cig lighters (2), gas cap (1) - slow and careful on the gas cap connection, it's short - and that's about it. Then for the ignition switch, the bolster under the steering wheel (a few screws) and you're almost done. Not a hard job, just take your time and enjoy it.

 

Alright, doesnt seem too bad. Ill probably get starter on that tomorrow after work. Im off thursday so if it takes longer no big deal. Oh yeah im in Florida so i can ride the bike to work friday lol.

Have you had any issues with your climate control? After this thats the next step. Ive got the writes with the step by step. That seems like a hell of a job....almost considering if im in there trying to do the hud. I heard thats the time to do it.

 

Yes, I had the dim climate control display problem. Just do that repair while you have the console and bezel out. After you get the radio bezel off, there is just 4 screws holding the climate control unit in. Slip it out and undo the connector on the back. The rest of the stuff is to just take it easy, take it apart and then re-solder those flat resistors. Here's a tip. Use something metal (like a small screwdriver) to hold the resistors down while soldering them. They tend to move around (a lot). Just re-heat them and you'll be good. I assume this is what you're talking about??? It's really easy. Again, just take your time. If you're not comfortable with soldering, take the unit to a tv repair place and ask them to resolder. Take some pics to show them what you want soldered. Won't take them 2 minutes to do them all.

 

Oh i wasnt aware of that issue. I meant the gears in the dash that change the temps on each side. Mine blows cold on the drivers side no matter what. The passenger side will blow hot or cold. However, if you turn that side on hot, it doesnt change. If you turn the driver side on hot, it doesnt change. I plan on doing the fixes posted to repair the gears. Was that just an issue with early c5's or did it plauge them all?

 

I've seen quite a few threads on that problem. Its caused by one of two things. If running the AC, you could be low on refrigerant. That's the most common problem. Or #2, you can have an actuator door this isn't working correctly (much more of a pain to fix). There is also an HVAC reset you can do. http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...d.php?t=159788

 

I did the HVAC reset, also have filled her up. I believe the codes point to the drivers side actuator. After the ignition, thats the next task.

What kinda mods do you have done to yours?

 

Yeah, if you've done those two things, I think you're right. Drivers side actuator looks like where you're headed. As for my mods, well basically I have a new motor. Tuner dropped the entire drive train out of the car. Torque tube, engine, trans, etc.. The engine was stripped to basic block and everything checked for wear and damage (none of either). New main, rod and cam bearings, melling hp oil pump, dual timing chain, new cam, 243 heads milled-P&P, dual springs, comp trunion upgrade, FAST 102 ported, 90mm LS2 TB also ported, Vararam, LT headers and xpipe, 3200 stall converter, new torque tube bushings (figured while I had this stuff out, I'd get it done). So basically the entire top end of the motor was new. Baseline dyno showed 281rwhp and 276 torque. After the mods, it put out 428rwhp and 402torque. Quite fun to drive. I'm still running the 3.15 gears, thinking of maybe getting some 3.42s or 3.73s. I have yet to take it to the drag strip but I think it'll do mid 11s right now. Some gears might almost get me into the 10s, a 100 shot of the go juice would definitely do it. All in all a really fun/good mod. Was expensive though. I've got more into the engine than I paid for the car originally. I'll never be selling it though, so its all good.