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Do I just snap the extra clip off the sensor so it’ll fit? Since the C5 only has one holder on the manifold but the sensor comes with a clip on both sides
Yep, think I just used a cutoff wheel with a Dremel.
I can’t really remember a clip being on the original sensor when I pulled mine out it was a simple install though just un hook the old one install your grommet and plug in the new one . If you could save the clip
would be advised just to see if it will fit your new one . Be sure to make sure all tubes , seals ect are nice and tight after don’t wanna be going back to ripping off intakes . I been there had my tear off down to 15 minutes lol
Last edited by Speedy007; Jan 17, 2025 at 10:37 AM.
Yep, think I just used a cutoff wheel with a Dremel.
replaced the map already with the ACDelco one but still getting a 0 map reading with key on eng off. map is scaled to 200/8. when i turn the car on the kpa goes up instantly to 1 bar then goes down to like 50-60kpa.
Wiring issue is most likely the cause possible many easy to test that . Possible faulty sensor
I want to ask if the car showing a p0102 or 03 because if its done right it should be maf should be disabled
Yes its 03 with maf plugged in or 02 w/o it plugged in. It gives me the right values when i go to crank the car. 1 bar then down to 50-60 when engine comes on. would that still be wiring issue?
Yes its 03 with maf plugged in or 02 w/o it plugged in. It gives me the right values when i go to crank the car. 1 bar then down to 50-60 when engine comes on. would that still be wiring issue?
dunno about that . I’ve always used a hpt to spot my map . Have your driven the car any difference?
replaced the map already with the ACDelco one but still getting a 0 map reading with key on eng off. map is scaled to 200/8. when i turn the car on the kpa goes up instantly to 1 bar then goes down to like 50-60kpa.
0 MAP with key on engine off does not make sense, for any sensor config
1 bar when cranking down to 50-60 kpa idling is 100% normal and accurate. Post a log of all of this and can confirm it's good now.
Before it was at 100 kpa idling, this is a big change.
Orange and black is your low reference wire, green is signal , green and yellow is high reference. Should get in there with a tester test your connection site .
0 MAP with key on engine off does not make sense, for any sensor config
1 bar when cranking down to 50-60 kpa idling is 100% normal and accurate. Post a log of all of this and can confirm it's good now.
Before it was at 100 kpa idling, this is a big change.
The wideband AFR is 13-15 cruising. only goes up when I get into boost hard. I can cruise and get into boost with good AFR but if im heavy foot itll lean out (like 80%+ throttle). couldve spliced the bank 2 O2 wire wrong im not sure, idk if whats in log is true. Do you think maybe it’s getting too much fuel then in boost? Or spark blowout? When it goes "lean" on wb it backfires and pops like it has too much fuel. Possible its a false lean? The map functions fine now and is accurate with boost. I’ll deal with it reading 0 kpa without the car on later if it’s an issue. I’m maxing out 80lb injectors with barely any boost which doesn’t make sense unless im losing an absurd amount of fuel pressure which i still need to check or it’s dumping too much fuel in. I’ll probably end up just getting a fabricated intake with fuel rails and a boost referenced regulator if fuel pressure is the problem.
There's still very little data to go off in the log.... logging way too many things for these old PCMs, the logging rate is horrid. The engine speed param updates twice in a "pull". Plus no overlay of wideband and stuff makes it hard to really see.
But yes, with even a very minimal amount of boost, just barely above atm pressure the injector duty is super high and you say its still running lean. To me it looks like it's commanding way more fuel than it should possibly need for the conditions, but I can't really say.
Are the injectors legit and actually 80lbs?
I would def start with verifying fuel pressure. When I was boosted, I wired fuel pressure sensor into the EGR pin so I could monitor and log it.
There's still very little data to go off in the log.... logging way too many things for these old PCMs, the logging rate is horrid. The engine speed param updates twice in a "pull". Plus no overlay of wideband and stuff makes it hard to really see.
But yes, with even a very minimal amount of boost, just barely above atm pressure the injector duty is super high and you say its still running lean. To me it looks like it's commanding way more fuel than it should possibly need for the conditions, but I can't really say.
Are the injectors legit and actually 80lbs?
I would def start with verifying fuel pressure. When I was boosted, I wired fuel pressure sensor into the EGR pin so I could monitor and log it.
Yes they should be legit and 80lbs. Removed 30% fueling so far and i’m able to hit 9-10 psi now before it starts backfiring and popping. was only able to hit 6 after taking 20% away so i think im moving in the right direction.
The stuff being logged is not in my control, thats the channels the tuner had me load and i’m not sure if i can make it update faster. If i can please let me know how. when it pops and back fires wideband fluctuates very rapidly around 17-20 and when i let off it instantly drops down to 10-11 AFR and occasionally will spike to 20 for like half a second when it pops. I have video of the wideband I attached.
Speculating... it's running super rich and thats why its misfiring. When it misfires it will temporality read super lean in spikes.
Does this thing not have narrowband sensors still? I would run closed loop and make things easier on yourself.
Spark plugs could be fouled after running so rich, check/replace as you go.
Just trying to learn. You make a lot of good suggestion. My question is when i'm watching his afr as he's stepping on throttle its going major lean before it evens pops. Im i missing something??
Speculating... it's running super rich and thats why its misfiring. When it misfires it will temporality read super lean in spikes.
Does this thing not have narrowband sensors still? I would run closed loop and make things easier on yourself.
Spark plugs could be fouled after running so rich, check/replace as you go.
I need to check plugs again and maybe regap, what would you suggest? they’re at .25-.27 right now. The sensors aren’t hooked up because the connectors got burnt up on the longtube headers before I owned the car. I spliced one in to see if it would work and i think it is but not certain, haven’t done the other one yet.
The only other thing I can think of to cause this is the fuel pressure regulator. I think when it’s calling for so much fuel the regulator isn’t regulating it and it’s spiking up a lot and causing it to run extremely rich. I believe this is my problem mainly because i’m still relying on the factory regulator on the rail. I’m going to order one but do I need non stock rails for me to put it on or can I put it inline the feed fuel line and still have the return line the same?
It’s sounding like gunshots now when it pops and is working exactly like antilag. Spools the turbo fast. Also shooting visible flames.
Just trying to learn. You make a lot of good suggestion. My question is when i'm watching his afr as he's stepping on throttle its going major lean before it evens pops. Im i missing something??
The biggest lesson to be learned here is properly wire up needed sensors before you try to tune something. Fuel pressure and especially wideband for this one. Plus who knows whatever else hardware issues going on.
The biggest lesson to be learned here is properly wire up needed sensors before you try to tune something. Fuel pressure and especially wideband for this one. Plus who knows whatever else hardware issues going on.
Definitely agree, fuel pressure sensor on log and wideband on log would be extremely helpful.
Speculating... it's running super rich and thats why its misfiring. When it misfires it will temporality read super lean in spikes.
Does this thing not have narrowband sensors still? I would run closed loop and make things easier on yourself.
Spark plugs could be fouled after running so rich, check/replace as you go.
Pulled the plugs and this is how they look. These plugs were originally ran with nitrous too on normal 93, don’t know if that makes any difference in how they look. Bank 1 B1 Bank 2 B2 B2
The biggest lesson to be learned here is properly wire up needed sensors before you try to tune something. Fuel pressure and especially wideband for this one. Plus who knows whatever else hardware issues going on.