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Help!! Problem with lowered car.

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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 01:38 PM
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Default Help!! Problem with lowered car.

I just got a message from the dealership (in for an active handling problem) and they claimed something along the lines of "the rear is lower than the front" and "the springs are rubbing against (i think, couldnt really make out) the rear stabilizer...". He then went on to say that it would be a three thousand dollar mistake if i left the car lowered. Now it is lowered with a lowering kit, not stock bolts. Any advice guys?? Im not sure if i should take a dealers word for it..

Thanks
Brad
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 01:40 PM
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The back should be 3/4" higher than the front measured behind the front tire and in front of the rear tire on the frame.
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 01:42 PM
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The back should be 3/4" higher than the front measured behind the front tire and in front of the rear tire on the frame. Stock bolts will lower the front more than the back so if you have longer than stock on the back it probably is to low. The suspension will not work properly.
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 02:25 PM
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I dunno about $3000, but if the rake isn't right (high in the front) your car can get extrememly squirly at high speed. The rake helps our "door stop shaped cars" (curteousy of my 300Z owning buddies) make downforce!
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 04:10 PM
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IMHO, stay far far away from that dealer and/or service writer. If he did not show you the problem and explain it to yo so you could get a second opinion then he's only doing half his job. In the rear the tansverse spring and stabilizer bar run parallel to each other and will not rub no matter how far the car is lowered.
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Cobra4B
I dunno about $3000, but if the rake isn't right (high in the front) your car can get extrememly squirly at high speed. The rake helps our "door stop shaped cars" (curteousy of my 300Z owning buddies) make downforce!

define "high speed".. im sure that unless you plan to cruize at 150+, having your car sit at the same height back and front you will be ok

just my .02


red
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by DirtyRed
IMHO, stay far far away from that dealer and/or service writer. If he did not show you the problem and explain it to yo so you could get a second opinion then he's only doing half his job. In the rear the tansverse spring and stabilizer bar run parallel to each other and will not rub no matter how far the car is lowered.

get your car out of there ...and quick
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Old Feb 1, 2005 | 04:29 PM
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Thanks for all the responses. I have an update on the car, I got the car out of the dealership and to no surprise, they didn’t fix the active handling problem (it comes on for no reason, when driving under normal conditions) because the "suspension is altered"... the funny thing is, the car has been the same height for 2 years and it has been to the dealership, for the AH problem, 2 other times in the past and they have said nothing about this. Anyway, the service sheet says that the springs are "bending excessively" and that "it will cause premature failure." Is this something that sounds legit? Im using lowering bolts.. Is this a common problem for people who use them or is the dealership just blowing smoke?

Thanks again
Brad
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Old Feb 1, 2005 | 04:42 PM
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More smoke.

The only way to change how much the spring is bending is to change the weight of the car.

In lowering, the spring remains the same, it does not move.You are only moving the control arm further up (changing the distance between the arm and the spring.

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Old Feb 1, 2005 | 04:48 PM
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Alright so, if the dealer will not fix the AH problem how can I go about fixing it? When the AH comes on it sort of forces my car to go a certain direction, could cause a mess in traffic or on the freeway. Again the problem is simple, AH engaging when im just driving normal.
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Old Feb 1, 2005 | 04:54 PM
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Is it always Active Handling engaging...or is it sometimes Traction Control too?
Do you have any codes present?
Do you have stock size tires on the car?
Any work done on the car just prior to this problem occuring?

When the AH engages, it applies individual brakes as needed to straighten the car out in the event of a skid. For some reason, it thinks your car is skidding, when it's not. This is why you feel the car pull.

I would obviously recommend driving with AH off until you get the problem figured out, if it is occuring on the freeway unexpectedly, this becomes a serious safety issue.

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Old Feb 1, 2005 | 07:01 PM
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Gradually raise the rear and see if the problem fixes it self. Lowering the car improperly and too much is not great for the suspension and handling, but it is not the great evil some will believe. We're talking between 1-2 inches though, and maintaining at LEAST a .5 inch rake front to rear with a full tank of gas and not you or luggage in it.

A nose up attitude can be bad at any speed over 100 miles nad hour-whether for handling economy, or whatever.
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Old Feb 1, 2005 | 07:37 PM
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IMHO, Iwould try taking the car to another dealer to get a second opinion. Ask around for a "corvette friendly" place then take the car there. There can be many reasons the active handling is coming on. Prob a sensor short or something easily fixable. Good luck
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Old Feb 1, 2005 | 08:57 PM
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Are your tire sizes ( diameter )more than 95% different. The PCM is programed to keep the speed relationship between front and rear to 95%, or trac control will activate. Some cars like mine will accept more difference, most won't.
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Old Feb 1, 2005 | 09:00 PM
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Only other thing it could be is a bad sensor. wheel sensor? I would not trust what this dealership is telling you. First as mentioned before. The spring will not bend anymore than at stock height. This should be basic understanding for a service man to understand let alone put it on a service ticket. RUN FOREST RUN AS FAST AS YOU CAN FOREST RUN RUN!!!
Just my 2 cents.
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Old Feb 2, 2005 | 07:13 PM
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AH only seems to engage when im slowing down.. im not sure if that is relevant. The tire sizes are stock.. its on fact rims/tires. The only prior work that was done was new tires. Some codes did come up:

28-TCS
C1282H
C1283H

I know they are history codes but the problem is nothing new.

A few more came up and they were not a big deal so no need to post.

Now I could not find these codes in my list, so they may be written down wrong, I will check and repost a little later if they are.

Thanks for the help guys

Brad

Last edited by BjD9433; Feb 2, 2005 at 07:16 PM.
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Old Feb 2, 2005 | 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by BjD9433

28-TCS
C1282H
C1283H
1282 is Yaw rate bias malfunction
1283 is Excessive time to center steering

Somebody shmarter than me will have to explain just WTF that/those is/are.
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