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Took my 98 to the dealer to have the AC belt changed. It has been squealing intermittently for some time now. Also mentioned that I have been getting a "low coolant" message on the DIC. They came back to me with the news that my water pump was leaking. They said it was leaking on the AC belt so they wouldn't change it (the belt) until I get the WP replaced. (Scheduled for Monday.) Does all this make sense? The car has not been overheating. I do not do any repairs myself (I'm just a girl LOL). Any other advice - like other things to get replaced while they are at it? I bought the car a little over a year ago - 70K miles with almost no repairs - just regular oil changes etc. I did have a minor front end accident about 3 months ago and had body work done.
One more question - I have the CLB and need to know if I should let them do the recall work while I'm at it. (Controversial question I know.) It's an A4.
Edit - Oh yeah - They are going to charge me $500+ to replace the water pump!!
Last edited by silverminevette; Jan 26, 2005 at 05:23 PM.
The fact that the dealer doesn't want to immediately replace everything in sight is a good sign! Pumps can leak for a long time if the bearing is okay and one may not know it. For example, I had a car that did this for nearly a year before I found the leak because the drip would be caught and retained in a cross-member when setting and blow away when moving. Haven't looked at the C-5 to see where it would drip, but makes sense it could be onto the belt.
If your dealer is like mine and many others noted here, just make sure your insurance is paid up before turning over to the GM geniuses.
All the best.
Oh yeah, column lock recall... I'd not let them touch it if you've been successful that long with your bypass installed.
Of course you're going to get alot of different answers but if it was me and I couldn't do the work or didn't want to do the work I'd go ahead and let the dealer do it as long as you feel comfortable and you trust them. Any prior dealings with them?
Make sure they change both belts, A/C and Drive belt. To get to the a/c belt the drive belt has to come off anyway.
As far as the CL is concerned if your car is included on the recall I would let them do it since the "fix" does work on A4s. It's the MN6s that the recall doesn't help. Also it won't cost you anything and some 97-98s have been known to have problems down the road from an aftermarket CLB.
Seems like the right diagnosis, yes the water pump will drip down on the belts,,,, you should replace both. I am surprised that they didn't mention replacing both...
Of course you're going to get alot of different answers but if it was me and I couldn't do the work or didn't want to do the work I'd go ahead and let the dealer do it as long as you feel comfortable and you trust them. Any prior dealings with them?
Make sure they change both belts, A/C and Drive belt. To get to the a/c belt the drive belt has to come off anyway.
As far as the CL is concerned if your car is included on the recall I would let them do it since the "fix" does work on A4s. It's the MN6s that the recall doesn't help. Also it won't cost you anything and some 97-98s have been known to have problems down the road from an aftermarket CLB.
The drive belt is not part of the a/c but it does have to come off before the a/c belt can be replaced and since you say your car has 70k miles on it then theres a good chance the belt will shows sign of deterioration and wear.
Before you leave the car with the dealer, make sure that you make note of the column lock and if they remove it, tell them you want it back!
BEFORE you take the car home (drive it off the lot) walk around the car and look for damage that was not there before!!! I had a dealer that damaged my drivers mirror. Didnt notice it until a few bays later!!
I have a '98 as well. My water pump went out before 30k miles. It is cake to replace so I think the $500 is rediculous. All you have to do is remove the air bridge and belts, then swap out the pump with new gaskets.
Have them check the idler and tensioner pulleys. When I pulled my belts and inspected, I noticed one of the idler pulleys to be cracked and worn.
I have a '98 as well. My water pump went out before 30k miles. It is cake to replace so I think the $500 is rediculous. All you have to do is remove the air bridge and belts, then swap out the pump with new gaskets.
Have them check the idler and tensioner pulleys. When I pulled my belts and inspected, I noticed one of the idler pulleys to be cracked and worn.
Had a leak under the car also turned out to be the water pump. I was fortunate to have it replaced under extended warranty. Apparently, there was an upgraded water pump made available by GM with improved bearings which last longer. This is the one they installed in my 2002. I would ensure you get the upgraded unit. FWIW.
You had mentioned that you had front end damage 3 months ago. How involved was the accident? It's not inconceivable that the water pump was affected by the impact. The bearing are seated after so many miles of use and a shock or jolt can cause it to shift and wear diffently and leak. It would be worth checking with your insurance carrier or the responsible parties insurance and have it included with the repair costs. This is all predicated on the fact that it was from the accident.
Personally I have been screwed by a Chevy dealership and would never go back to a dealer for repairs again. They charge too much and don't have pride in quality work. Find a good Corvette or speed shop in your area that you trust. It'll probably be cheaper in the long run.
I checked Rock Auto and they show waterpumps anywhere from $30 to $220. If your dealer is using the $220 pump, they're charging $280 or about 3 hours labor to replace the pump and the belts (which shouldn't cost more because they have to come out to replace the pump) and refill the system with coolant. I think that's way high. Maybe there's a supporting vendor near you in FL that you can call. Or a local Vette club might know some independent tech. The question to ask is: "What's the flat rate to R & R a waterpump? What's the part going to cost me?"
It sounds like they are correct. If you are looking for an alternative place I can highly recomend a Orlando shop. They specialize in Corvette and are realy helpfull. I am not sure if they are a supporting member yet so if you PM me and I can give you their name and #.
Before you leave the car with the dealer, make sure that you make note of the column lock and if they remove it, tell them you want it back!
BEFORE you take the car home (drive it off the lot) walk around the car and look for damage that was not there before!!! I had a dealer that damaged my drivers mirror. Didnt notice it until a few bays later!!
Have the SERVICE MANAGER go over your car and look for any scractches, wheel curb rash etc......they have a pictograph form they use for this!!......When you bring the car in!!...Then check when you pick it up!!!!!
Last edited by Macinamouth; Jan 29, 2005 at 09:56 PM.
Have the SERVICE MANAGER go over your car and look for any scractches, wheel curb rash etc......they have a pictograph form they use for this!!......When you bring the car in!!...Then check when you pick it up!!!!!
Do yourself a favor and do a video walk around at home, starting with that days newspaper. This way you can show them that as of this date there was no damage. I was lucky with my dealership headache. I had just installed the z06 ducts and painted my calipers prior to dropping it off with Chevy. My digital camera date stamps the photo. Before I took the car back for the manager to view the damage on Monday I printed the picture. He could clearly see that there was no damage prior to my visit. And of course the mechanic denied all responsibility. Not so quick this time. He never thought I could prove my case. They paid to repair it and I never went back.