Thanks, someone on another forum mentioned the ignition and keys, said to take the other keys off the ring due to the weight as well as use the other key.

I feel a little better.

If all the codes have an "H" next to them being history, can I erase them, or should I keep them up? Do I need to take it into the shop?

 

You can clear them out and see if they get repeated or if new ones get posted. If it is the resistor pellet and your spare key works, you will be fine. If it's the ignition you will have to take it in to be replaced.

TJ

 

Josh,
The "H" behind the codes stands for history (i.e. the codes are old). If there was a "C" behind the codes, then they would be current. The history codes remain in the computer memory for a certain number of ignition cycles, before they are automatically removed. You can clear these codes yourself by cycling thru them one by one and hitting the reset button. Since you're taking it to the dealer, I would leave it as is and let the dealer take care of things.

 

B2282 Battery #1 Fault DCM-LEFT
B2284 Battery #2 Fault DCM-LEFT

Pull the battery and clean your contacts.

the good news is that the "H" stands for history and "C" stands for current. These codes are old and you just need to clear them. Check every so often to see if they come back. Hoping the battery won't leak is a bad idea Just change it so that you don't need to worry any more.

 

Thanks, you guys are my heroes!

I'm freaking out, this is my dream and I get to drive it everyday and so I was worried. I'll check into it all this weekend.

Appreciate all the help. I'm very releaved now. Thanks.

 

Josh, I hope you've checked the tightness of your battery terminals. One can be loose and cause the problems you've experienced. Since you never had this problem until the battery was replaced, that's the first place I'd check.

 

Unexplained gremlins are usually in the battery...
Change it and they will go away (my unofficial opinion of course)
Let's us know what the dealer said.

 

Had the same codes, probably a few more. Problems seemed to manifest themselves in rain and washing the car, could not pinpoint any water intrusion. The security light would come on after approx. a mile of driving,but everything seemed to work so I ignored it.
We had taken the car to Mecca [Bowling Green] and Vette would start/die many times and/or do nothing. We are far from home and it's Sunday. I'll shorten this...it finally fired off and kept running, seemed to be o.k. the rest of the day.
These codes relate to the theft detterent system, more specifically the ignition key recognition. Yeah,yeah I know clean the key you'll be fine. I knew I needed the lock cylinder replaced and as I don't like being stranded I had them replace the ignition switch while they were in there. Expensive,yes, so is being broken down out of town and 'Bubba; is your only choice to tear into your toy.
The ignition lock cylinder wears and it does not recognize the key. The ignition swich itself sends out a siganl to all the modules and requires a report back for the car to crank, and in my case stay running.

BOTTOM LINE---since the lock cylinder and switch were replaced no problems and no more various codes thrown all due to loss of communication.

As a Pontiac service advisor if I told you how many cars we get towed in due to ignition cylinder/switch failures you'd say, no way. Hey, maybe it's not your problem, all I know is it fixed mine and my customers cars. By the way, these are newer cars w/o the resistor pellet issue, that can add to our problem. In reality though the resistor itself seldoms malfunctions, I still have my original keys. The dealer can check the resistor pellet in a few seconds.

O.K.-nuff said, good luck.

 

This is what came to my mind

 

I chased this problem this last summer and found it to be the ingition lock cylinder.
The 2 tiny wires leading from that to a plug are flexed every time the key is turned on and eventully start giving false resistance signals to the BCM and it locks the starter out for 12-15 min.
I removed the lock cyl and hooked a digital Fluke meter to the wires with the key inserted and flexed the wires in the normal path they would take. At random times I got an out of range reading.
So I replaced the loc cyl. and it has never failed to start since.
Buy the way, a tech 2 could not find the problem it came down to componet testing.

 

Interesting, I had not thought of this as a potential problem. When this happens does the DIC tell you to wait 10 minutes and try again or is it a no-start condition with no warnings?

 

I've an '01 and one afternoon I came out of a coffeeshop and guess what, sounds like your experience. All electronics worked, but nothing happened when I turned the key to start. I tried a half dozen times, still the same... waited about 5 minutes and it took right off.

I immediately drove to the dealer where it started repeatedly wthout a hitch, though one of the workers saw some kind of verbal message flash across the DIC once during one of the starts. They did a test to see if there were any codes set... none. They said sometimes the key will wear the switch if it has a lot of stuff on the ring; nothing on mine but the fob and they had only seen that in SUVs.

After saying they had seen this before but couldn't say or do anything more without some kind of codes, they recommended I drive it and that it may be a one-time electronic glitch that shut off everything, fuel-pump and ignition. With nothing else to do, I left and went on my perviously scheduled trip.

Hasn't happened since in almost 4 years, knock on plastic!

Ain't electronics great... when they work!

All the best.

 

No start with no warning's but will set all the codes listed and then some.
The worst part is there is no pattern set of any discription, I actually kept a log of the times and conditions it occured, it's totally random!
In fact sometimes it set no codes!

 

Thanks everybody, I learned a lot from this thread.

I took her in to the dealership Sat. morning, but not for the problems we've been talking about, (although I'm going have them check into the ignition lock cylinder as well) but you won't believe what happened to me Fri. night....

I'm going start another thread to talk about it, but for now, my tranni's dead, I can't believe it... don't respond here, I'm starting a new thread about it, I want to see what you guys think on it...

 

TTT ..

 

I told you earlier it might be the battery but when I re-read your original post, I realized that I totally forgot I had the same exact thing happen to me. It would not start intermittently and the dealer had 3 possibilities. The 3 possibilities were the key cylinder, the starter (or a short in the starter I think) or the BCM. The guy at the dealer was a master tech for gm and knew corvettes really well. It acted normally at the dealer so he showed me how to hot wire the car with the key in the ignition. This is easily done by making a connection with 2 wires under the passenger glove compartment and the key in the on position. What this did was bypass the BCM thus ruling out the starter and implicating the BCM or the key cylinder. Since the cylinder was not a common cause according to him, we replaced the BCM. It never happened again after that. Prior, it was happening once or twice a week.

 

WOW!! that's good to know, thanks for sharing, I just called the dealership and told them to check the ignition lock cylinder, I hope they find something and replace/repair it.

How much did it cost to replace the BCM??

If there's so many problems with the ignition lock cylinder, why doesn't GM recall it??

 

Just got word back from the dealership, I told them to check the ignition lock cylinder while they had it in there working on the tranni. (reaction shell cover)

They said there were two wires on the starter that they needed to replaced, would those same two wires be the ones you guys are talking about connected to the ignition lock cylinder??
(they erased all the codes after they put the trani back, so they couldn't find the codes, even though I wrote them down for the tech)

That's all they came up with, two wires connected to the starter were going bad??

 

Wires to the starter are a definite possibility...

 

SON OF A......

It happened again!! I just got it back from the dealership, the same night, I'm washing it (cause the dealership let it get nice and dirty for me), and after it was all said and done, it wouldnt' crank again, this time it just made a loud rapid clicking noise?? It said LOW VOLTAGE on the DIC, there was only like 9 volts. (still under warrenty, thank God)

I had it towed in....lousy dealership, said they took care of it.... who can you trust anymore these days??? I don't know. This forum has been more helpful then the dealership. Thanks.