When people say forged bottom end do they mean pistons and connecting rods?

or pistons connecting rods and the crank?

do you have to buy a new block to put a forged bottom end on?

how much torque can a stock crank take before it cranks no more?

why would it cost 3k to have a forged bottom end when its jsut pistons and connecting rods?

what about ceramic stuff?

Andy

 

Depends, 99% of the time yes, forged pistons and connecting rods. Some companies still use a stock connecting rod like SLP and LPE in certain budget applications.

If it is a stock cubic inch, yes the stock crank is used. Strokers use forged cranks. All bore engines ( stock stroke, big bore) keep the stock crank. It is really specific to the engine. I would ask to be sure.



No, but you buy a short block and there is usually a "core charge" where you send them your old engine back. Some companies do not require a core charge.

We have seen 1250 to the tires on a stock crank. I have yet to see a crank break.

Machine work and assembley. You cannot just put these parts in. You have to check clearances, balance everything, check ring gaps, ect.

I cant answer that question, we however dont use it. Coatings are a different story

Louis

 

hmmmm....
im lost on the machine work still
why cant you jsut buy some forged pistons and connecting rods and slam them into your rehoned block?

keep stock CI and drop a Twin turbo kit on it
?

I understand for big HP you want big Cubes but damn 5.7 litres is big to me especially when your talking Fi

 

im new to engine building

 

You are talking about bearing clearances less than the thickness of a human hair. Anything wrong with that, and it will prove to be disasterous to the engine.

The aftermarket rods/pistons do not weigh the same as the stock parts. If you do not take this into consideration, the engine will be out of balance.

Everything has to be dissassembled, cleaned, checked for cracks, straitness, weight, size, ect to make sure that you get everything the way that it needs to be.

 

ahhh i see now

that makes sense to me

first time I ever tore an engine apart i ended up in a world o sht probably for the same reasons you jsut mentioned
i took the main caps and rod caps off anpulled pistons out and then put them back in with new rings and torqued the caps down to spec

the thing squeeled and whined and wouldnt hardly run so i sold it for 75$

it was a prelude motor

 

Sorry, but I have to chime in here guys since I'm the owner of a 95 C4 since 1999 that I bored and stroked to 383 c.i. in 2000 myself due to a nitrous disaster (only had 28K miles on it in 99 when I blew the engine) ....it's been my daily driver/hotrod fun to drive vehicle ever since!

I'm also the Owner of a recently purchased C5 99 Torch Red Loaded stock Vert.

Back to the question.....I went with forged SRP pistons and Eagle SIR Rods and a cast stroker crank. All were sent to the shop with the block where it was blueprinted, align honed, and torque plate bored to 0.030 over and the entire rotating assembly balanced of course!

I still have 10.5:1 compression and have raised the rev limit to 6,500 with no problem. I also ported and polished the LT-1 heads myself as well as doing some other tricks to the engine during reassembly. I now have 115K miles on the car and it runs like I rebuilt it yesterday.

I call is the Black Beast...and let me assure you, even when you read the long list of mods in my profile, it's a very dependable Beast too!

IMO, as long as you stay below 7,000 RPM, a non-forged crank and rods should be just fine, even with juice or blower.

The weak link is the original hyperutectic pistons which literally go to pieces under detonation.....believe me, I have pictures of this first hand and it isn't pretty, nor cheap to fix.