Feb 20, 2015, 12:05 PM
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Steering Column Lock FAQs - please read before you post (sticky please)
Heel & Toe
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles CA
Hey guys
I wish I had thought to search for this thread two days ago.
My C5 manual vette's steering column locked the other day and I got the 'Service steering column' message on the dash.
I had it towed to the Chevy dealer and they told me the recall for this had a termination date of 2008 so i would have to pay for the fix.
They said it would be ~$900 to fix it. $600 for a part they need to order and then $300 in labor.
But after reading this thread Im thinking they are trying to rip me off.
It'll cost me $75 to tow back to my house but if I can save ~$600+ doing what seems to be a simple fix myself (maybe just change the battery ?) then it is probably worth it.
I just feel like Im being scammed.
I wish I had thought to search for this thread two days ago.
My C5 manual vette's steering column locked the other day and I got the 'Service steering column' message on the dash.
I had it towed to the Chevy dealer and they told me the recall for this had a termination date of 2008 so i would have to pay for the fix.
They said it would be ~$900 to fix it. $600 for a part they need to order and then $300 in labor.
But after reading this thread Im thinking they are trying to rip me off.
It'll cost me $75 to tow back to my house but if I can save ~$600+ doing what seems to be a simple fix myself (maybe just change the battery ?) then it is probably worth it.
I just feel like Im being scammed.
Heel & Toe
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles CA
Thanks much
To answer your questions. Yes the wheel is locked without the key in the ignition. Yes i got the fuel shut off and error messages.
Thing is its already at the Chevy dealer so i cant check anything myself.
I guess what Im asking is if their quote of $900 to fix it sounds accurate or if it sounds like they are just arbitrarily replacing the BCM even though that may not be the real problem.
If its likely that its just the battery or something else 'simple' then it seems like I would be better off having the car towed back to me and doing this myself to save a few hundred bucks (and get it right).
Thoughts ?
To answer your questions. Yes the wheel is locked without the key in the ignition. Yes i got the fuel shut off and error messages.
Thing is its already at the Chevy dealer so i cant check anything myself.
I guess what Im asking is if their quote of $900 to fix it sounds accurate or if it sounds like they are just arbitrarily replacing the BCM even though that may not be the real problem.
If its likely that its just the battery or something else 'simple' then it seems like I would be better off having the car towed back to me and doing this myself to save a few hundred bucks (and get it right).
Thoughts ?
Before this problem started occurring, did the column lock with no key in the ignition? Is the column now physically locked with no key in the ignition? Are you experiencing the fuel shutoff if you try to drive the car with the error messages in the DIC?
Definitely start by checking the battery voltage. If you have read the last 6 or 8 pages of this thread, you will see that the voltage needs to be more than 12.5 volts measured across the battery terminals with the neg battery cable disconnected using a digital voltmeter (DMM). Charge the battery fully. A good battery fully charged will measure between 12.7 and 12.9 or more volts. Don't bother with the dash gages as they cannot tell you the state of health of the battery. If the battery will not hold the charge it may be time for a new one. I would have it load tested (any parts store does this free) once you have attempted to charge it.
Your 2002 may have the the GM K harness installed. If so it will look like this:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1567913186-post8.html
Depends upon many different things as to whether it is installed including what previous owners may have done if/when they experienced the column lock symptoms. The K Harness is located physically in series between the lock motor and the connector that goes to the Body Control Module behind the drivers side knee bolster. You need to drop theknee bolster to look. Here is a link to some instructions for installing a column lock bypass (CLB). The first part of the instructions contains details with pictures about dropping the knee bolster:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=24
You can recognise the GM K Harness by looking for a female connector that has only two wires going into it, one white and one purple. If you have that connector remove the male plug that goes into it. The wires to that male connector appear to go up into the column. They go to the lock motor. Then locate the other connector of the K Harness. It will be a male connector that is plugged into a female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash. Now plug the male connector that goes to the lock motor into the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash. This return the wiring to what came from the factory.
You now need to clear all the error messages in the DIC and any codes that may be set in the BCM. Use the code reset procedure in the following link for pulling your codes:
http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php
Then try it and see if the problem is gone. If the problem is gone, I suggest that you order and install a CLB ASAP. Especially if your column locks with no key in the ignition.
If you still have problems post back here. There are a few additional things to check/do that will get you back on the road.
Definitely start by checking the battery voltage. If you have read the last 6 or 8 pages of this thread, you will see that the voltage needs to be more than 12.5 volts measured across the battery terminals with the neg battery cable disconnected using a digital voltmeter (DMM). Charge the battery fully. A good battery fully charged will measure between 12.7 and 12.9 or more volts. Don't bother with the dash gages as they cannot tell you the state of health of the battery. If the battery will not hold the charge it may be time for a new one. I would have it load tested (any parts store does this free) once you have attempted to charge it.
Your 2002 may have the the GM K harness installed. If so it will look like this:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1567913186-post8.html
Depends upon many different things as to whether it is installed including what previous owners may have done if/when they experienced the column lock symptoms. The K Harness is located physically in series between the lock motor and the connector that goes to the Body Control Module behind the drivers side knee bolster. You need to drop theknee bolster to look. Here is a link to some instructions for installing a column lock bypass (CLB). The first part of the instructions contains details with pictures about dropping the knee bolster:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=24
You can recognise the GM K Harness by looking for a female connector that has only two wires going into it, one white and one purple. If you have that connector remove the male plug that goes into it. The wires to that male connector appear to go up into the column. They go to the lock motor. Then locate the other connector of the K Harness. It will be a male connector that is plugged into a female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash. Now plug the male connector that goes to the lock motor into the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash. This return the wiring to what came from the factory.
You now need to clear all the error messages in the DIC and any codes that may be set in the BCM. Use the code reset procedure in the following link for pulling your codes:
http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php
Then try it and see if the problem is gone. If the problem is gone, I suggest that you order and install a CLB ASAP. Especially if your column locks with no key in the ignition.
If you still have problems post back here. There are a few additional things to check/do that will get you back on the road.
8th Gear
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 8
Likes: 2
I am looking to buy a 2004 Corvette really soon. Can someone check to see if this vehicle (VIN: 1G1YY22G545128303 ) was ever part of the recall for the steering column lock issue? The owner says no, but I want to double-check and don't know how. Also, let's say this vehicle was not part of the recall, does that mean I am safe from the steering column lock problem ever occuring??
Thanks from a Corvette Newb,
Amin
Thanks from a Corvette Newb,
Amin
Last edited by C52BN2011; Jan 31, 2011 at 12:06 AM. Reason: correction
Heel & Toe
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles CA
It's extremely unlikely that the problem is the BCM. It is extremely likely that the problem is a low or bad battery and /or the K Harness has failed.
No way it is worth $900 to repair your problem unless you have absolutely no mechanical skills and can't find a friend with a little mechanical skill to help you go through the procedure I outlined above. If you have to replace the battery and install a CLB you are looking at $150 tops plus the tow to get it back to your house.
No way it is worth $900 to repair your problem unless you have absolutely no mechanical skills and can't find a friend with a little mechanical skill to help you go through the procedure I outlined above. If you have to replace the battery and install a CLB you are looking at $150 tops plus the tow to get it back to your house.
I am going to have the car towed back to me to hopefully save a few hundred bucks.
Im sure the dealer isnt going to be too happy.
2nd Gear
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Had the "pull key, wait 10 secs" pop up on me just a bit ago. Steering wheel would not unlock and display changed to "service steering wheel lock" message.
What worked for me was to turn ignition on-off-on-off without starting it, removing key and jerking wheel hard to left and right. Put key in ignition and turned car on and lock disengaged. This was great because the tow truck was on his way! Was able to call and cancel tow in the nic of time.
I did have a battery replaced recently (leaky battery, damaged ac controller vacuum line) and had the GM recall done on this over 2 years ago. 2002 with 53k.
Still not 100% sure what caused the initial lock up but I hope it doesn't happen again!
I consult this forum all the time and wanted to let you guys know that your suggestions do work if you take the time to search for them!!
What worked for me was to turn ignition on-off-on-off without starting it, removing key and jerking wheel hard to left and right. Put key in ignition and turned car on and lock disengaged. This was great because the tow truck was on his way! Was able to call and cancel tow in the nic of time.
I did have a battery replaced recently (leaky battery, damaged ac controller vacuum line) and had the GM recall done on this over 2 years ago. 2002 with 53k.
Still not 100% sure what caused the initial lock up but I hope it doesn't happen again!
I consult this forum all the time and wanted to let you guys know that your suggestions do work if you take the time to search for them!!
Last edited by xebrazi; Feb 14, 2011 at 01:30 PM.
Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,093
Likes: 267
From: Oklahoma City
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17,'19,'22
Great post!
I had the service column lock message yesterday after a dead battery.
My 99 A4 had the recall done on it.
Pulling fuse 25 fixed my issue with the message displayed
I had the service column lock message yesterday after a dead battery.
My 99 A4 had the recall done on it.
Pulling fuse 25 fixed my issue with the message displayed
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 812
Likes: 1
From: Sherman Texas
GM Column Lock.. errrr.......
OK, My column lock finally got me stranded... Here is the situation..
I had been having battery issues, Optima Red top dieing... But, after a charge there had been no issues.. So that said, I charged up the battery, and drove the girl out for valentines dinner, no issues. After dinner, 15 miles from home, I start up the car and it dies as I back up. Service Column lock.. Car details at this point : MN6, 2000, Lock plate removed and fuel pump cutoff programmed. In the parking lot I pull out the Iphone, read the trusty forum for details, and find the "k" harness installed. I "service column lock". OK, Fluke in the back, I measure voltage, it's now low. I walk across to Wally World and buy a junker battery to get me buy. My rant--- If the battery will start the engine, the car should run. Thanks GM--- now that that's outta the way, new battery installed (i left the old one disconnected for 40 minutes while I got the new one) same issues.. I try several times to reset this, getting late so I call a flatbed. An hour later it's home, dead in the garage.
So, at this point I order a CLB from COH. It gets here today, so I bypass the relay on the passenger side, jumper 30 to 87, remove relay. I install the CLB, reset the BCM by pulling all the fuses listed in this thread. Same issue. I then disconnect the battery, wait 30 minutes which during that time I clean 2 ground blocks under the hood and re-seat the plugs in the BCM, and check fuses again. Same issue...
Any ideas? What have I missed? I'm slow charging the battery again, even though it has 12.5 volts showing. Codes are all clear at this point, even though I have the "service column lock" message.. This seems strange to me. Here are the codes I pulled before the last reset: c1241, B2723, U1255H, U1096H, U1064H, and U1016H. All are clear right now except c1241, which as far as I know cannot affect this. Any help is appreciated.
I had been having battery issues, Optima Red top dieing... But, after a charge there had been no issues.. So that said, I charged up the battery, and drove the girl out for valentines dinner, no issues. After dinner, 15 miles from home, I start up the car and it dies as I back up. Service Column lock.. Car details at this point : MN6, 2000, Lock plate removed and fuel pump cutoff programmed. In the parking lot I pull out the Iphone, read the trusty forum for details, and find the "k" harness installed. I "service column lock". OK, Fluke in the back, I measure voltage, it's now low. I walk across to Wally World and buy a junker battery to get me buy. My rant--- If the battery will start the engine, the car should run. Thanks GM--- now that that's outta the way, new battery installed (i left the old one disconnected for 40 minutes while I got the new one) same issues.. I try several times to reset this, getting late so I call a flatbed. An hour later it's home, dead in the garage.
So, at this point I order a CLB from COH. It gets here today, so I bypass the relay on the passenger side, jumper 30 to 87, remove relay. I install the CLB, reset the BCM by pulling all the fuses listed in this thread. Same issue. I then disconnect the battery, wait 30 minutes which during that time I clean 2 ground blocks under the hood and re-seat the plugs in the BCM, and check fuses again. Same issue...
Any ideas? What have I missed? I'm slow charging the battery again, even though it has 12.5 volts showing. Codes are all clear at this point, even though I have the "service column lock" message.. This seems strange to me. Here are the codes I pulled before the last reset: c1241, B2723, U1255H, U1096H, U1064H, and U1016H. All are clear right now except c1241, which as far as I know cannot affect this. Any help is appreciated.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 812
Likes: 1
From: Sherman Texas
I highlighted in blue your statement about the K Harness. Unclear to me what you actually had or what you did with respect to a K Harness. Read it your self to see what I mean. Was there a K Harness installed? Did you disconnect BOTH end of it before installing the CLB? Or did you plug the CLB into a female connector that has only 2 wires going into it, one white and one purple? If you plugged into the female connector that has only two wires, that is your problem. The GM K Harness is still in the circuit and it is bad and causing your problem. If so remove BOTH ends of the K Harness and plug the CLB into the female connector attached to the botton of the dash that had the male connector of the K Harness plugged in.
Further, you mention the bypassing of the relay in the passenger side by jumpering pin 30 to 87. Did your car have BOTH a K Harness AND a relay in the passenger footwell that had a spliced purple wire going into the relay? The car should have had one OR the other but NOT both. (although I have seen a few that had both. That is wrong. Who ever did both did NOT know what they were doing.)
Check the wiring that was in the passenger footwell. If it had the purple wire mod then it would have looked like this:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1573694198-post3.html
The relay in the modded setup is a 5 pin relay vs a 4 pin relay if it is not the purple wire mod. If you do NOT have the purple wire mod you need to remove the pin 30 to pin 87 bypass that you did and reinstall the relay. ( The relay may be bad. I have seen dozens of cases where the low battery voltage frys the points of this relay. A replacement is available from most parts store for about $20 or about $45 from the dealer)
As to the voltage being 12.5 on the new battery, that is NOT enough to correctly operate the electronics of the column lock system. Measured across the battery posts with the neg battery cable disconnected, you need MORE than 12.5 volts. A new battery seldom has a full charge fresh off the shelf. You need to charge it fully. A fully charged good battery will measure about 12.9 volts or greater. (My 3+ year old battery consistently measure 12.96 measured as above.) THe car will start with as little as 12.2 volts but the column lock electronics will fail because of the low voltage so you cannot drive the car due to the fuel shutoff that will occur. I agree that GM has screwed the pooch on this whole column lock setup but it is what is and you have to live with it or have the fuel shutoff reprogrammed to a high number....
Feel free to PM me if you still have questions.
Further, you mention the bypassing of the relay in the passenger side by jumpering pin 30 to 87. Did your car have BOTH a K Harness AND a relay in the passenger footwell that had a spliced purple wire going into the relay? The car should have had one OR the other but NOT both. (although I have seen a few that had both. That is wrong. Who ever did both did NOT know what they were doing.)
Check the wiring that was in the passenger footwell. If it had the purple wire mod then it would have looked like this:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1573694198-post3.html
The relay in the modded setup is a 5 pin relay vs a 4 pin relay if it is not the purple wire mod. If you do NOT have the purple wire mod you need to remove the pin 30 to pin 87 bypass that you did and reinstall the relay. ( The relay may be bad. I have seen dozens of cases where the low battery voltage frys the points of this relay. A replacement is available from most parts store for about $20 or about $45 from the dealer)
As to the voltage being 12.5 on the new battery, that is NOT enough to correctly operate the electronics of the column lock system. Measured across the battery posts with the neg battery cable disconnected, you need MORE than 12.5 volts. A new battery seldom has a full charge fresh off the shelf. You need to charge it fully. A fully charged good battery will measure about 12.9 volts or greater. (My 3+ year old battery consistently measure 12.96 measured as above.) THe car will start with as little as 12.2 volts but the column lock electronics will fail because of the low voltage so you cannot drive the car due to the fuel shutoff that will occur. I agree that GM has screwed the pooch on this whole column lock setup but it is what is and you have to live with it or have the fuel shutoff reprogrammed to a high number....
Feel free to PM me if you still have questions.
***Update***. I did get the car to run, only the purple spliced wire relay is still installed as normal. Should I go ahead and jumper that or leave it, the CLB is installed and appears to be working. I did find that the Corvettes of Houston instructions did not work, I had to re-install using the method from http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=24 . I also cleaned the grounding points in the kick panels, the passenger side actually had seam sealer under the ring. So take out the relay on the passenger side or leave it as is? What happens if I leave it alone?
Last edited by thmupr; Feb 25, 2011 at 09:18 PM. Reason: Update
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,942
Likes: 7
From: Gaffney, S.C.
Here is my situation that I just encountered with my own vehicle. I have a 2003 manual trans Vette that I purchased new. I had the recall done for the column lock which consisted of the reprogram only. I watched them do it. I also removed the lock plate and replaced it with the eliminator plate on my own just for personal satisfaction. I was not having any issues prior to the recall but had it done to stop them from bugging me. I did not have any problems with the recall repair which was done several years ago and no other issues on the vehicle. It is dead stock by the way. Last week I let the car sit in my garage for a week while on vaction which I do often with no problems. When I tried to start the car, the battery was completely dead. The battery is 2.5 years old. I put my charger on it and it took 2 days for the slow charger to fully charge the battery. When I started the engine the "pull key wait 10 seconds" light came on. I shut it off and pulled the key. After restarting, the "service column lock" light was on and the vehicle would stall when trying to drive. I did all the usual things such as pulling the BCM fuse and disconnecting the battery and checking for codes and nothing worked. No codes were present. The lock motor would run as usual with no different sounds at all. I connected my Launch tester to the car and selected the lock position menu and the lock showed to be working but the microswitch in the motor was not sending the ground signal to the BCM. I went to the BCM and connected an OHM meter to the green wire from the column lock motor to the BCM and operated the ignition switch and there was no change meaning for some reason the microswitch was not working or there was a hole in the wire somewhere between the two. I removed the knee bolster to expose the lock motor wiring and found the four wire connector for the motor and disconnected it to do an OHM check on the switch directly. It was then that I discovered that there was an additional wiring harness added to the vehicle along with the white relay. This must have been added on the assembly line since it definately was not added at any time during my ownership. The wiring harness does not appear in the factory shop manual either. Any way, I removed the jumper harness and relay and connected the wiring back together as it was originally designed and the car was then back to normal. I do not see any purpose for this additional relay since there is already a relay for the motor in the system. You essentially have a relay operating a relay to accomplish the same thing. I also believe that the relay contacts stuck together causing the battery drain which killed the battery. I hope this will help someone else along the line. One more thing that I discovered too is that much has been said about having the correct battery and that all the voltages must be perfect. I do not believe that this is as critical as some have tried to make us believe. When my original battery died, the engine would just barely turn over and the radio lost all memory but I never had a column lock light come on which tells me that if the battery will start the car, then it has enough power to operate the column lock with no problem. I am a 40 year ASE Master Technician.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,627
Likes: 396
From: Madison Wi
Here is my situation that I just encountered with my own vehicle. I have a 2003 manual trans Vette that I purchased new. I had the recall done for the column lock which consisted of the reprogram only. I watched them do it. I also removed the lock plate and replaced it with the eliminator plate on my own just for personal satisfaction. I was not having any issues prior to the recall but had it done to stop them from bugging me. I did not have any problems with the recall repair which was done several years ago and no other issues on the vehicle. It is dead stock by the way. Last week I let the car sit in my garage for a week while on vaction which I do often with no problems. When I tried to start the car, the battery was completely dead. The battery is 2.5 years old. I put my charger on it and it took 2 days for the slow charger to fully charge the battery. When I started the engine the "pull key wait 10 seconds" light came on. I shut it off and pulled the key. After restarting, the "service column lock" light was on and the vehicle would stall when trying to drive. I did all the usual things such as pulling the BCM fuse and disconnecting the battery and checking for codes and nothing worked. No codes were present. The lock motor would run as usual with no different sounds at all. I connected my Launch tester to the car and selected the lock position menu and the lock showed to be working but the microswitch in the motor was not sending the ground signal to the BCM. I went to the BCM and connected an OHM meter to the green wire from the column lock motor to the BCM and operated the ignition switch and there was no change meaning for some reason the microswitch was not working or there was a hole in the wire somewhere between the two. I removed the knee bolster to expose the lock motor wiring and found the four wire connector for the motor and disconnected it to do an OHM check on the switch directly. It was then that I discovered that there was an additional wiring harness added to the vehicle along with the white relay. This must have been added on the assembly line since it definately was not added at any time during my ownership. The wiring harness does not appear in the factory shop manual either. Any way, I removed the jumper harness and relay and connected the wiring back together as it was originally designed and the car was then back to normal. I do not see any purpose for this additional relay since there is already a relay for the motor in the system. You essentially have a relay operating a relay to accomplish the same thing. I also believe that the relay contacts stuck together causing the battery drain which killed the battery. I hope this will help someone else along the line. One more thing that I discovered too is that much has been said about having the correct battery and that all the voltages must be perfect. I do not believe that this is as critical as some have tried to make us believe. When my original battery died, the engine would just barely turn over and the radio lost all memory but I never had a column lock light come on which tells me that if the battery will start the car, then it has enough power to operate the column lock with no problem. I am a 40 year ASE Master Technician.
That harness you removed was a recall item, called a K-Harness.
I'm not sure they ever installed them on the production line, according to your experience perhaps they did.
Racer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 298
Likes: 8
From: Quad Cities Iowa
What symptoms do you have besides an error message? Do you experience the 2MPH fuel shutoff? Is the column locked when you have this message? Does the column lock with no key in the ignition? Do you also receive the pull key and wait............ message? When do you receive the message? Occassionally? All the time????? A little information from you will go a long way to getting some worthwhile information on this issue....
Since you are not the original owner of the car it's a complete unknown what previous owners may have had done to the column lock system other than the GM Column Lock Recall Service and even that had at least 4 different variations.............
Since you are not the original owner of the car it's a complete unknown what previous owners may have had done to the column lock system other than the GM Column Lock Recall Service and even that had at least 4 different variations.............
Racer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 298
Likes: 8
From: Quad Cities Iowa
28-TCS
C1125H
C1126H
40-BCM
B2578H
B2583H
A0-LDCM
B2282H
B2284H
U1064H
A1-RDCM
B2283H
B2285H
U1064H
B0-RFA
U1096H
U1064H
U1016H
Racer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 298
Likes: 8
From: Quad Cities Iowa
my post matches my hand written notes. I'm not sure how to tell if my hand written notes were wrong, because I reset all the codes. I suppose I'll know more when I check the codes again after a few miles.
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
From: Huntington WV
I have a 99 FRC and was getting the column lock pull key for 10 seconds message. Ordered my CLB from Corvettes of Houston received it quickly put it in myself today and the car starts and runs every time now. Thanks for the help
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Thanks!
Got this message today on my '03 Z06 after owning it for about a year. I had already purchased the CLRB, so it was just a matter of an "urgent" installation.
Took about 20 minutes with no major issues other than the uncertainty of the mechanic
THANK YOU for the FAQ and links! Only comment I'd make would be adding these instructions as I found them to be a better walk-through.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=24
Took about 20 minutes with no major issues other than the uncertainty of the mechanic
THANK YOU for the FAQ and links! Only comment I'd make would be adding these instructions as I found them to be a better walk-through.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=24
Racer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 298
Likes: 8
From: Quad Cities Iowa
B0-RFA
U1096H
U1064H
U1016H
I bet all the other codes were due to a low battery
Racer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 298
Likes: 8
From: Quad Cities Iowa