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Steering Column Lock FAQs - please read before you post (sticky please)
3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
my service column lock kept coming on every time I started my 2001 Vette.
This is an attempt to compile all the Column Lock Information into one place. If there are errors, please contact me so I can make corrections. With all the recalls, there is a lot of confusion, questions, anxiety, and threads. Hopefully this will be helpful to our forum readers.
Q What is the symptom of failure?
A Your steering wheel will not unlock and the DIC will display an error message "Service Steering Column Lock". Your owner's manual will instruct you to have your vehicle towed to the nearest GM dealer for repair.
Q What exactly causes this failure?
A When you insert your key into the ignition and turn it to the ON position, the BCM (Body Control Module) sends a command to your Column Lock Motor to "unlock" and then checks a status line to ensure that the steering column is unlocked. If it gets the wrong status, it will display an error message as mentioned above. It can be caused by ECL (Electronic Column Lock) mechanism failure and occasionally by low battery voltage, which sometimes confuses the BCM.
Q Can anything be done to unlock the steering column once it has locked up?
A Sometimes; turn the ignition OFF and REMOVE the key. Shock your lock motor actuator assembly by jerking the steering wheel against the stops. Re-insert your key and try again. Also, if your battery voltage is low, charge your battery or replace it.
Q If my battery is discharged and I jump it to get the engine started, the alternator is now charging shouldn't the column unlock?
A NO; The whole unlock sequence occurs before you ever turn your key to start your engine. If the battery is too low, you will probably have trouble with your column lock. Several folks have replaced their battery and the column lock problem has never occurred since.
Q Does this problem affect both A4’s and MN6 vehicles?
A Yes; however if you have 2001 or newer A4 car, the ECL lock plate has been replaced.
Q What years are affected?
A Pre-2001 A4 cars and all MN6 or MN12(Z06) cars.
Q Is there any solution for this problem?
A Yes; have the recall done if you have an A4 car or install a Column Lock Bypass (CLB) on MN6 & MN12 cars BEFORE the problem occurs. Once it fails, you may not be able to fix it without GM repair.
Q Where can I purchase a CLB?
A They are available from several of our forum vendors such as:
Thunder Racing and Corvettes of Houston
Q How much does a CLB cost?
A Typically about $49.95.
Q Is a CLB difficult to install?
A No; very simple (less than an hour) by following instructions. See this link for help: http://97vette.com/howto/columnlock/index.html
Q Can I build my own?
A Yes; if you have soldering skills and $20 in parts, you can build your own in about 1 hour. See this link for info: http://shelor.net/Z/CorvetteForum/Cscokd/
Q Are there other alternatives?
A Yes; there is a GM "Harness K" GM part no. 89023816 (was 88952427), which GM installs as part of its recall; it costs ~ $85.50.
This harness is installed leaving the Column Lock Motor active. However the Lock Plate inside the steering column must be removed or replaced. If installing on a MN6/M12, do NOT connect up the column lock motor harness side (C207 female receptacle).
Q What exactly does the GM recall do?
A The following details were provided by forum member "TopCat" and should prove very helpful:
If your car has NOT been previously serviced under Customer Satisfaction Campaign 01044 or TSB 01-02-35-008, the GM recall outlines a 3-step process:
Here's a very informative link that describes the actual GM service instructions including electrical diagrams:
Chevy Dealer Service Bulletin
For MN6 & MN12 cars only:
1997
Reprogram Only
1998 built through 5/25/98
Reprogram Only
1998 built on or after 5/28/98 (CSC 01044 was performed)
Reprogram Only
1998 built on or after 5/28/98 (CSC 01044 was not performed)
Install wire kit (part#88952428) and reprogram
1999-2000 and CSC 01044 or TSC 01--02-36-008 was performed
Reprogram Only
1999-2000 and CSC 01044 or TSC 01--02-36-008 was not performed
Install wire kit (part#88952428) and reprogram
2001-2004
Reprogram Only
For A4 cars only:
1997-2000 A4's
Install wire kit (Harness K), remove and discard lock plate, install the "cam orientation plate" where the lock plate previously resided. No PCM flash required.
2001-2004 A4's
No Change Required - they didn't install the Electric Column Lock (ECL) on those years, in the U.S., after experiencing so many problems.
Q I have an A4 car; what should I do if I get a recall notice from GM?
A This is a personal decision. My advice is to have the recall implemented. They will service your car per the above recall discussion. After the recall is implemented on A4's, you should be able to turn your steering wheel with the key removed. The only anti-theft mechanism now will be your A4 transmission will remain locked until the key is ON.
Q I have a MN6/M12 car, what will the recall do?
A IF you have a MN6/M12 car, the recall does NOT disable your column lock motor. It simply re-programs your PCM to guarantee your fuel is shut off at speeds above 2 mph so you cannot drive your car with the steering column locked. The column lock failure can still occur at any time and you will most likely be stranded somewhere needing to be towed to the nearest dealer for repair when it occurs.
Q If I have a MN6/M12 car, what should I do?
A Again this is a personal decision. Advice is to install a CLB and ignore the recall. It does nothing to prevent the problem from occurring.
Q If I have a MN6/M12 car, will the GM recall re-program my PCM and affect my tuning?
A Yes; See description of recall instruction above. There are several horror stories related to this. Most folks with tunes do NOT allow the recall to be implemented.
Q Exactly how does the steering column lock mechanism work?
A The steering column lock unit consists of a 12VDC motor, a worm drive gear, a locking pin, and a micro switch which is activated by the lock pin screwing down thru a lock plate with holes or slots in it to lock your steering column.
Q Can the steering lock up while driving my car?
A There have been a few rumors of this. The only way this is possible is if the BCM should fail sending a "lock" command to your lock motor. There are some fears that the lock motor can partially retract but not all the way so that the lock pin could engage the locking plate later while driving. This is highly unlikely due to the mechanical micro-switch, which detects when the lock pin is completely retracted before sending the "unlock" signal back to the BCM.
The worm gear on the motor turns a gear on a threaded shaft that "jacks" the pin assembly in the direction determined by the motor. link was lost
[I]The second picture shows the pin/jack assembly, laid out
link was lost
Finally, the last photo shows the micro-switch that is either opened or closed by the body of the pin assembly:
link was lost
Q If I install a CLB, can the steering column lock up accidentally from vibration or shock?
A Highly unlikely; the lock pin is driven by a worm gear drive on the motor which can not move without the motor turning as well.
Q What exactly does the CLB consist of?
A A small module that plugs (in place of your Column Lock Motor) into C207 (male pin side) consisting of a 4-wire harness to your BCM. The CLB consists of a 12VDC-latching relay. Connections are:
Q I still get the "Pull Key and Wait 10 Seconds" message and "Service Steering Column Lock" message? What do I do now?
A1 Sometimes the latching relay in the CLB can get out of sync sending the wrong status to your BCM. This has happened to a few folks even with the CLB installed. The CLB latching relay gets out of sync with the BCM possibly due to shock, vibration or relay contact bounce during switching which confused the BCM. The CLB does not physically know which state it should be in; it only switches from one state to the other when it receives a signal from the BCM. The BCM can be reset by pulling Fuse 23 and waiting 10 seconds.
A2 Check to make sure Fuse 25 in passenger footwell is good.
A3 Verify the black wire to your ECL or CLB is grounded (zero ohms resistance).
A5 Verify the green wire to the ECL or CLB is shorted to ground while in the "UNLOCKED" position and pulled up to +12Vdc while in the "LOCKED" position.
A6 If you get the "Pull Key and Wait 10 Seconds" message but no "Service Column Lock" message, it can sometimes be a symptom of your security system and related to your key pellet.
Q What can happen then if my CLB gets out of sync?
A Your DIC will display "Service Steering Column Lock" error message; your steering wheel will not be locked; if you own a 1997-2000 C5 that has not had the recall implemented; you should be able to drive your car normally. You must reset your DIC each time you start your car if you are annoyed with the error message. IF you have a newer C5 (2001-2004) OR you've had the recall implemented, you will NOT be able to drive your car because the fuel will be shut off at speeds above 2 mph.
Q When I purchase the CLB, what is the extra harness with the cigarette lighter plug used for?
A This is simply to help you unlock your steering column with the ignition key removed. It is used one-time only just before you install your CLB. It connects +12V to the purple wire on the Column Lock Motor to unlock your steering column. Another method is to turn on your ignition key, verify that your steering wheel is unlocked, then disconnect the wire harness to your lock motor. You will need to reset your BCM after doing this to clear the error that this will create.
Q I had the recall done and now after a few weeks my car is getting the dreaded “Service Column Lock” error message and I can’t drive it because the fuel is shut off. What should I do?
A You have the following choices: 1) return to the dealer and make them fix it; 2) A4 cars - replace or remove the Harness "K" assembly; 3) remove the recall mods and restore to original; 4)MN6/M12 cars only - go into your passenger footwell, locate the relay added by the recall mod, remove the relay altogether and bypass the circuit as described below (my choice).
Q What happens when I install an aftermarket CLB and it doesn’t work?
A You probably have the GM recall mod (mentioned above) installed on your car already. This could happen by GM installing the mod at the factory, or the recall mod was already completed by you or a previous owner.
Q How can I tell if I’ve had the recall mod?
A1 If you have an A4 car, can you turn your steering wheel freely while the ignition key is removed? If so, you probably DO have the recall mod.
A2 For all cars, you can inspect your wiring by removing your knee bolster under the driver's side. Inspect your column lock harness. If the four wires in your ECL harness are Orange, Purple, Green, Black on both sides of the connector, then you DO NOT have the recall mod installed. If you have White, Purple, Green, Black on either side of the connector, then you DO have the recall mod.
Q Why is there sometimes a conflict between the recall mod and my CLB?
A For MN6 and M12 cars, the recall mod added a second relay (different from the Harness K which is the GM version of the CLB) between your BCM and your ECL in series with the orange (LOCK) wire. This is to safeguard against a spurious glitch from ever locking your ECL while you are driving (clearly GM is paranoid now). The problem is that this second relay is causing a timing glitch, which resets your CLB immediately after it switches states. The reason it works with your stock ECL is because your ECL motor (being mechanical and slow compared to solid-state logic), is immune to these timing glitches whereas the latching relay inside your CLB sees these glitches and reacts to them.
Q For MN6/M12 cars what can I do if this situation occurs?
A Go into your passenger footwell. Remove your BCM and locate the recall mod relay, remove it and add a jumper wire between the white wire (pin 30) and the orange wire (pin 87). Note that there are two orange wires, so make sure you get the right one!
Q Can CLB modules fail?
A Yes; we have occasionally heard of a CLB failure.
Q If my CLB fails, will it damage my BCM?
A Possibly, but extremely doubtful; there have been some claims of this happening, however after personally researching it now for the last year and talking with many forum members, I have yet to see where a BCM actually experienced electrical damage. GM put fuses into their designs to protect the BCM from short circuits and failures.
Please send me comments. Thanks!
cscokd@gmail.com
- GM installed a Steering Column Lock mechanism on all 1997 - 2004 manual (MN6) cars and on 1997 to 2000 automatic (A4) cars
- There is a GM recall for this problem on affected models and years
- It is one of the most problematic issues that we C5 owners deal with
- It can happen to you if you have a pre-2001 A4 without the recall or CLB installed OR any year MN6 or Z06 car without a CLB installed. Age or mileage makes no difference.
- Low battery voltage seems to aggravate and sometimes cause column lock failures
Q What is the symptom of failure?
A Your steering wheel will not unlock and the DIC will display an error message "Service Steering Column Lock". Your owner's manual will instruct you to have your vehicle towed to the nearest GM dealer for repair.
Q What exactly causes this failure?
A When you insert your key into the ignition and turn it to the ON position, the BCM (Body Control Module) sends a command to your Column Lock Motor to "unlock" and then checks a status line to ensure that the steering column is unlocked. If it gets the wrong status, it will display an error message as mentioned above. It can be caused by ECL (Electronic Column Lock) mechanism failure and occasionally by low battery voltage, which sometimes confuses the BCM.
Q Can anything be done to unlock the steering column once it has locked up?
A Sometimes; turn the ignition OFF and REMOVE the key. Shock your lock motor actuator assembly by jerking the steering wheel against the stops. Re-insert your key and try again. Also, if your battery voltage is low, charge your battery or replace it.
Q If my battery is discharged and I jump it to get the engine started, the alternator is now charging shouldn't the column unlock?
A NO; The whole unlock sequence occurs before you ever turn your key to start your engine. If the battery is too low, you will probably have trouble with your column lock. Several folks have replaced their battery and the column lock problem has never occurred since.
Q Does this problem affect both A4’s and MN6 vehicles?
A Yes; however if you have 2001 or newer A4 car, the ECL lock plate has been replaced.
Q What years are affected?
A Pre-2001 A4 cars and all MN6 or MN12(Z06) cars.
Q Is there any solution for this problem?
A Yes; have the recall done if you have an A4 car or install a Column Lock Bypass (CLB) on MN6 & MN12 cars BEFORE the problem occurs. Once it fails, you may not be able to fix it without GM repair.
Q Where can I purchase a CLB?
A They are available from several of our forum vendors such as:
Thunder Racing and Corvettes of Houston
Q How much does a CLB cost?
A Typically about $49.95.
Q Is a CLB difficult to install?
A No; very simple (less than an hour) by following instructions. See this link for help: http://97vette.com/howto/columnlock/index.html
Q Can I build my own?
A Yes; if you have soldering skills and $20 in parts, you can build your own in about 1 hour. See this link for info: http://shelor.net/Z/CorvetteForum/Cscokd/
Q Are there other alternatives?
A Yes; there is a GM "Harness K" GM part no. 89023816 (was 88952427), which GM installs as part of its recall; it costs ~ $85.50.
This harness is installed leaving the Column Lock Motor active. However the Lock Plate inside the steering column must be removed or replaced. If installing on a MN6/M12, do NOT connect up the column lock motor harness side (C207 female receptacle).
Q What exactly does the GM recall do?
A The following details were provided by forum member "TopCat" and should prove very helpful:
If your car has NOT been previously serviced under Customer Satisfaction Campaign 01044 or TSB 01-02-35-008, the GM recall outlines a 3-step process:
- Installation of wire/relay kit under the passenger footwell
- Re-program your PCM
- Jack up your front-end with your wheels off the ground to do a functional test with the Tech 2. If any scraping, clicking, etc. is "heard" or felt by the service technician during the functional test, then the locking plate, retaining ring, and nut are supposed to be replaced.
- If a CLB or a Harness K is found during this process (the recall specifically mentions this), it is supposed to be removed.
Here's a very informative link that describes the actual GM service instructions including electrical diagrams:
Chevy Dealer Service Bulletin
For MN6 & MN12 cars only:
1997
Reprogram Only
1998 built through 5/25/98
Reprogram Only
1998 built on or after 5/28/98 (CSC 01044 was performed)
Reprogram Only
1998 built on or after 5/28/98 (CSC 01044 was not performed)
Install wire kit (part#88952428) and reprogram
1999-2000 and CSC 01044 or TSC 01--02-36-008 was performed
Reprogram Only
1999-2000 and CSC 01044 or TSC 01--02-36-008 was not performed
Install wire kit (part#88952428) and reprogram
2001-2004
Reprogram Only
For A4 cars only:
1997-2000 A4's
Install wire kit (Harness K), remove and discard lock plate, install the "cam orientation plate" where the lock plate previously resided. No PCM flash required.
2001-2004 A4's
No Change Required - they didn't install the Electric Column Lock (ECL) on those years, in the U.S., after experiencing so many problems.
Q I have an A4 car; what should I do if I get a recall notice from GM?
A This is a personal decision. My advice is to have the recall implemented. They will service your car per the above recall discussion. After the recall is implemented on A4's, you should be able to turn your steering wheel with the key removed. The only anti-theft mechanism now will be your A4 transmission will remain locked until the key is ON.
Q I have a MN6/M12 car, what will the recall do?
A IF you have a MN6/M12 car, the recall does NOT disable your column lock motor. It simply re-programs your PCM to guarantee your fuel is shut off at speeds above 2 mph so you cannot drive your car with the steering column locked. The column lock failure can still occur at any time and you will most likely be stranded somewhere needing to be towed to the nearest dealer for repair when it occurs.
Q If I have a MN6/M12 car, what should I do?
A Again this is a personal decision. Advice is to install a CLB and ignore the recall. It does nothing to prevent the problem from occurring.
Q If I have a MN6/M12 car, will the GM recall re-program my PCM and affect my tuning?
A Yes; See description of recall instruction above. There are several horror stories related to this. Most folks with tunes do NOT allow the recall to be implemented.
Q Exactly how does the steering column lock mechanism work?
A The steering column lock unit consists of a 12VDC motor, a worm drive gear, a locking pin, and a micro switch which is activated by the lock pin screwing down thru a lock plate with holes or slots in it to lock your steering column.
Q Can the steering lock up while driving my car?
A There have been a few rumors of this. The only way this is possible is if the BCM should fail sending a "lock" command to your lock motor. There are some fears that the lock motor can partially retract but not all the way so that the lock pin could engage the locking plate later while driving. This is highly unlikely due to the mechanical micro-switch, which detects when the lock pin is completely retracted before sending the "unlock" signal back to the BCM.
The worm gear on the motor turns a gear on a threaded shaft that "jacks" the pin assembly in the direction determined by the motor. link was lost
[I]The second picture shows the pin/jack assembly, laid out
link was lost
Finally, the last photo shows the micro-switch that is either opened or closed by the body of the pin assembly:
link was lost
Q If I install a CLB, can the steering column lock up accidentally from vibration or shock?
A Highly unlikely; the lock pin is driven by a worm gear drive on the motor which can not move without the motor turning as well.
Q What exactly does the CLB consist of?
A A small module that plugs (in place of your Column Lock Motor) into C207 (male pin side) consisting of a 4-wire harness to your BCM. The CLB consists of a 12VDC-latching relay. Connections are:
- Purple wire: from BCM = UNLOCK
- Orange Wire: from BCM = LOCK
- Black Wire: Ground
- Green Wire: to BCM = OPEN is locked; CLOSED (grounded) is unlocked. This status line is pulled up to +12V thru a resistor inside the BCM module.
Q I still get the "Pull Key and Wait 10 Seconds" message and "Service Steering Column Lock" message? What do I do now?
A1 Sometimes the latching relay in the CLB can get out of sync sending the wrong status to your BCM. This has happened to a few folks even with the CLB installed. The CLB latching relay gets out of sync with the BCM possibly due to shock, vibration or relay contact bounce during switching which confused the BCM. The CLB does not physically know which state it should be in; it only switches from one state to the other when it receives a signal from the BCM. The BCM can be reset by pulling Fuse 23 and waiting 10 seconds.
A2 Check to make sure Fuse 25 in passenger footwell is good.
A3 Verify the black wire to your ECL or CLB is grounded (zero ohms resistance).
A5 Verify the green wire to the ECL or CLB is shorted to ground while in the "UNLOCKED" position and pulled up to +12Vdc while in the "LOCKED" position.
A6 If you get the "Pull Key and Wait 10 Seconds" message but no "Service Column Lock" message, it can sometimes be a symptom of your security system and related to your key pellet.
Q What can happen then if my CLB gets out of sync?
A Your DIC will display "Service Steering Column Lock" error message; your steering wheel will not be locked; if you own a 1997-2000 C5 that has not had the recall implemented; you should be able to drive your car normally. You must reset your DIC each time you start your car if you are annoyed with the error message. IF you have a newer C5 (2001-2004) OR you've had the recall implemented, you will NOT be able to drive your car because the fuel will be shut off at speeds above 2 mph.
Q When I purchase the CLB, what is the extra harness with the cigarette lighter plug used for?
A This is simply to help you unlock your steering column with the ignition key removed. It is used one-time only just before you install your CLB. It connects +12V to the purple wire on the Column Lock Motor to unlock your steering column. Another method is to turn on your ignition key, verify that your steering wheel is unlocked, then disconnect the wire harness to your lock motor. You will need to reset your BCM after doing this to clear the error that this will create.
Q I had the recall done and now after a few weeks my car is getting the dreaded “Service Column Lock” error message and I can’t drive it because the fuel is shut off. What should I do?
A You have the following choices: 1) return to the dealer and make them fix it; 2) A4 cars - replace or remove the Harness "K" assembly; 3) remove the recall mods and restore to original; 4)MN6/M12 cars only - go into your passenger footwell, locate the relay added by the recall mod, remove the relay altogether and bypass the circuit as described below (my choice).
Q What happens when I install an aftermarket CLB and it doesn’t work?
A You probably have the GM recall mod (mentioned above) installed on your car already. This could happen by GM installing the mod at the factory, or the recall mod was already completed by you or a previous owner.
Q How can I tell if I’ve had the recall mod?
A1 If you have an A4 car, can you turn your steering wheel freely while the ignition key is removed? If so, you probably DO have the recall mod.
A2 For all cars, you can inspect your wiring by removing your knee bolster under the driver's side. Inspect your column lock harness. If the four wires in your ECL harness are Orange, Purple, Green, Black on both sides of the connector, then you DO NOT have the recall mod installed. If you have White, Purple, Green, Black on either side of the connector, then you DO have the recall mod.
Q Why is there sometimes a conflict between the recall mod and my CLB?
A For MN6 and M12 cars, the recall mod added a second relay (different from the Harness K which is the GM version of the CLB) between your BCM and your ECL in series with the orange (LOCK) wire. This is to safeguard against a spurious glitch from ever locking your ECL while you are driving (clearly GM is paranoid now). The problem is that this second relay is causing a timing glitch, which resets your CLB immediately after it switches states. The reason it works with your stock ECL is because your ECL motor (being mechanical and slow compared to solid-state logic), is immune to these timing glitches whereas the latching relay inside your CLB sees these glitches and reacts to them.
Q For MN6/M12 cars what can I do if this situation occurs?
A Go into your passenger footwell. Remove your BCM and locate the recall mod relay, remove it and add a jumper wire between the white wire (pin 30) and the orange wire (pin 87). Note that there are two orange wires, so make sure you get the right one!
Q Can CLB modules fail?
A Yes; we have occasionally heard of a CLB failure.
Q If my CLB fails, will it damage my BCM?
A Possibly, but extremely doubtful; there have been some claims of this happening, however after personally researching it now for the last year and talking with many forum members, I have yet to see where a BCM actually experienced electrical damage. GM put fuses into their designs to protect the BCM from short circuits and failures.
Please send me comments. Thanks!
cscokd@gmail.com
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 30
Likes: 1
1998 c5 a4
Just following up on what I've done so far with my 98 A4 and offering a big thank you to 8VETTE7 for all of his help and for providing me with the amo needed to convice the Stearship to do the column ring lock replacement called for in the C version of the recall for column lock problems.
Here is what has happened so far with the car after it was towed to the dealership:
1. They said they would perform the 04006 C recall but needed to order the K harness cable.
2. When I picked up the car from the dealership about one week later (I was out of town and they needed 3 days to get the cable in), the car was running just fine, no codes in the DIC and the column was unlocked.
3. I drove the car home and turned if off and the column locked when I pulled the key out. They had not replaced the column ring lock with the one containing the smaller holes as required by the GM recall.
4.The car unlocked when I put the key back in and turned it so the K harness apparenty is working (if they actually put it on).
I talked at length with 8Vette7 and decided to push the stealership to replace the ring lock for the column. After a while (I had to call them back twice) they agreed to do the column lock ring replacement part of the 04006 C GM recall. They have not flashed the PCM so hopefully they won't when I take it back to them!
4. I also decided to check out my 18 month old battery and found that it was marginal (12.54 volts) so I replaced it with a brand new one.
5.Meanwhile I have purched a CLB from COH and will replace the GM K harness once I get my car back form the column lock ring replacement effort.
So assuming they stealership does not reflach my PCM, I should be good to go if they do the recall work correctly this time. MY guess is that the orginal problem was caused by the "low voltage" battery as that seems to be how many of the others problems start!
I'll post again when I get the car back and install the CLB.
Roy
Here is what has happened so far with the car after it was towed to the dealership:
1. They said they would perform the 04006 C recall but needed to order the K harness cable.
2. When I picked up the car from the dealership about one week later (I was out of town and they needed 3 days to get the cable in), the car was running just fine, no codes in the DIC and the column was unlocked.
3. I drove the car home and turned if off and the column locked when I pulled the key out. They had not replaced the column ring lock with the one containing the smaller holes as required by the GM recall.
4.The car unlocked when I put the key back in and turned it so the K harness apparenty is working (if they actually put it on).
I talked at length with 8Vette7 and decided to push the stealership to replace the ring lock for the column. After a while (I had to call them back twice) they agreed to do the column lock ring replacement part of the 04006 C GM recall. They have not flashed the PCM so hopefully they won't when I take it back to them!
4. I also decided to check out my 18 month old battery and found that it was marginal (12.54 volts) so I replaced it with a brand new one.
5.Meanwhile I have purched a CLB from COH and will replace the GM K harness once I get my car back form the column lock ring replacement effort.
So assuming they stealership does not reflach my PCM, I should be good to go if they do the recall work correctly this time. MY guess is that the orginal problem was caused by the "low voltage" battery as that seems to be how many of the others problems start!
I'll post again when I get the car back and install the CLB.
Roy
Last edited by rclason; Oct 6, 2010 at 05:26 PM. Reason: spelling corrections
3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Skip back a few pages in this thread and carefully read the comments about the battery voltage and how to check it. Almost guaranteed to be your problem!!!!!
Once you get the battery issues squared away consider putting a CLB in the car. For a 2001, it should be easy. If you have the GM K Harness installed, disconnect both ends of it and install the CLB male connector into the female connector attached to the bottom of the dash. Details for doing this are stated MANY times in the last 10 pages of this thread. Spend a little time reading and if you still have specific questions feel free to PM me.
Once you get the battery issues squared away consider putting a CLB in the car. For a 2001, it should be easy. If you have the GM K Harness installed, disconnect both ends of it and install the CLB male connector into the female connector attached to the bottom of the dash. Details for doing this are stated MANY times in the last 10 pages of this thread. Spend a little time reading and if you still have specific questions feel free to PM me.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 220
Likes: 19
From: Phoenix AZ
Mine is stranded in garage now too. My truck is also in for service, just my luck. Been researching this thread and off to go buy the CL relay. Will order the CLB. My battery is a bit low at 12.3 so probably replace it too soon. Fuse pulls, jerking the sterring column, etc. have not free'd it up.
So, if the CL is bad just replacing it should get me on the road again, correct?
Any detailed, instructions, or pictures of how to replace and where exactly this CL relay is located at?
If the CL relay is bad and replacing it fixes I assume its still a good idea to do the CLB so dont have to worry about that relay again or should I still carry a spare relay?
Thanks for any help catching me up to speed ...
So, if the CL is bad just replacing it should get me on the road again, correct?
Any detailed, instructions, or pictures of how to replace and where exactly this CL relay is located at?
If the CL relay is bad and replacing it fixes I assume its still a good idea to do the CLB so dont have to worry about that relay again or should I still carry a spare relay?
Thanks for any help catching me up to speed ...
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 30
Likes: 1
Column lock problems
I had to call GM/Chevy to have them convince Sands Chevy in Surprise,AZ to remove the column lock plate and replace it with the recall part/cam orientation plate. After a call from GM the stealership's service manager called me and invited me in for a consult. He asked me to bring my copy of the recall notice(04006C) with me. Remember they had installed the GM K harness on my first trip (P/N 19244028). The Service manager first tried to convice me that my car did not need the plate removed but quickly "changed" his mind when I showed him the first line on page two of the GM recall.
Anyway they did the work correctly this time and it only took them 45 min. to complete it. I managed to catch the tech that actually did the work and he appologized to me for any misunderstanding and told me exactly what he did to remove the column lock plate.
The car is now home all things for the recall have been "fixed" so when the weather cools off some I will install the COH CLB that I purchased last week.
Thanks again to 8Vette7 for all of his help and advice. You gotta love the stealerships, they just do not understand this problem nor how to read a GM recall notice!
Roy
Anyway they did the work correctly this time and it only took them 45 min. to complete it. I managed to catch the tech that actually did the work and he appologized to me for any misunderstanding and told me exactly what he did to remove the column lock plate.
The car is now home all things for the recall have been "fixed" so when the weather cools off some I will install the COH CLB that I purchased last week.
Thanks again to 8Vette7 for all of his help and advice. You gotta love the stealerships, they just do not understand this problem nor how to read a GM recall notice!
Roy
Last edited by rclason; Oct 13, 2010 at 02:26 PM. Reason: spelling corrections
Racer
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 404
Likes: 6
From: Amarillo Texas
Stereo install sets off Service Column Lock
2000 Coupe 6 speed
Here's a new one and I can't find this instance in either this section or the audio section.
Started last weekend installing new Alpine head unit, Kenwood amp, and Polk speakers. After trolling the audio scetion for a couple of weeks and gathering the how to of this install I started last weekend. Finished up yesterday and went to pull the Vette out of the shop and got the Pull Key Wait 10 Seconds followed by Service Column Lock.
Bought the car end of June and had a CLB installed about two weeks later so this would not happen. Well now it has happened and the fuel shutoff works very well. The steering column is NOT locked with key out.
Removing the Bose system leaves no usable parts to integrate with the new system. Power comes from the battery via dirrect fused wire from positive post. ACC wire comes from a yellow wire at the BCM that is a well respected and used source to tell the HU to turn on.
How do I get the acc power for my h/u?
if you look in the passenger footwell, pull out the cover and look in the top left corner. There will be a small plug with three wires (orange, yellow, & black) that are just taped up. Check out this schematic to see which fuses they use, but the yellow wire is the +12V switched, and that I am sure of.
So this wire and the power wire from the battery are the only wires running to the head unit. Nothing else. The HU is grounded to the passenger seat hold down bolt. All other wiring, basically speaker wire, is independent of any stock wiring. You do have to power the two antenna's in the coupe and that comes from the power antenna wire off the head unit.
As soon as I got everything buttoned up and started to back out of the shop I got the message because the car died and I looked at the display and there was the message.
I have pulled and inspected fuses with no luck. Disconnected battery and left it overnight before hooking back up. No luck. Checked battery (only 3.5 months old) and it shows about 13.2 volts so that checks out.
My car had the recall service that included the relay scenario that has to be jumpered to make the CLB work. Saw some info on that several pages back so I went and bought a new relay and installed with jumper wire as it was before and still get the code.
I uninstalled the CLB and reinstalled it by the instructions. Still get the code.
Everything worked fine until the stereo went in. Maybe I need an Alpine Bypass switch or something. It looks like now the only option is to load the car on a wrecker and take it to a tune shop and have them reset the fuel shutoff data to 800 mph or something so I can drive the car. That scenario will still have to be dealt with everytime the car is started and resetting the code so it doesn't show. Not my preferred outcome.
Got to be something simple I am missing here but I cannot seem to find it Is it possible that having the Bose head unit removed that the security system is not functioning properly and throws the Service Column Code by not having all the wiring connected like it was before the aftermarket install?
Is there an easy way to test the CLB switch to be sure it didn't get zapped some way or another? That's all I have left to check.
Thanks for any suggestions!
Here's a new one and I can't find this instance in either this section or the audio section.
Started last weekend installing new Alpine head unit, Kenwood amp, and Polk speakers. After trolling the audio scetion for a couple of weeks and gathering the how to of this install I started last weekend. Finished up yesterday and went to pull the Vette out of the shop and got the Pull Key Wait 10 Seconds followed by Service Column Lock.
Bought the car end of June and had a CLB installed about two weeks later so this would not happen. Well now it has happened and the fuel shutoff works very well. The steering column is NOT locked with key out.
Removing the Bose system leaves no usable parts to integrate with the new system. Power comes from the battery via dirrect fused wire from positive post. ACC wire comes from a yellow wire at the BCM that is a well respected and used source to tell the HU to turn on.
How do I get the acc power for my h/u?
if you look in the passenger footwell, pull out the cover and look in the top left corner. There will be a small plug with three wires (orange, yellow, & black) that are just taped up. Check out this schematic to see which fuses they use, but the yellow wire is the +12V switched, and that I am sure of.
So this wire and the power wire from the battery are the only wires running to the head unit. Nothing else. The HU is grounded to the passenger seat hold down bolt. All other wiring, basically speaker wire, is independent of any stock wiring. You do have to power the two antenna's in the coupe and that comes from the power antenna wire off the head unit.
As soon as I got everything buttoned up and started to back out of the shop I got the message because the car died and I looked at the display and there was the message.
I have pulled and inspected fuses with no luck. Disconnected battery and left it overnight before hooking back up. No luck. Checked battery (only 3.5 months old) and it shows about 13.2 volts so that checks out.
My car had the recall service that included the relay scenario that has to be jumpered to make the CLB work. Saw some info on that several pages back so I went and bought a new relay and installed with jumper wire as it was before and still get the code.
I uninstalled the CLB and reinstalled it by the instructions. Still get the code.
Everything worked fine until the stereo went in. Maybe I need an Alpine Bypass switch or something. It looks like now the only option is to load the car on a wrecker and take it to a tune shop and have them reset the fuel shutoff data to 800 mph or something so I can drive the car. That scenario will still have to be dealt with everytime the car is started and resetting the code so it doesn't show. Not my preferred outcome.
Got to be something simple I am missing here but I cannot seem to find it Is it possible that having the Bose head unit removed that the security system is not functioning properly and throws the Service Column Code by not having all the wiring connected like it was before the aftermarket install?
Is there an easy way to test the CLB switch to be sure it didn't get zapped some way or another? That's all I have left to check.
Thanks for any suggestions!
Last edited by mophead; Oct 23, 2010 at 03:41 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 108
From: Ocala, Fl. State of Confusion
Absolutely great post! It finally locked up. I got the CLB & installed it. I thank you for the tip on removing the #23 fuse to reset the BCM. The Corvettes of Houston's instructions had me buying a new BCM.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
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Racer
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 404
Likes: 6
From: Amarillo Texas
Unhooked CLB and went back with stock wiring and still get the code. It seems my recall is the relay above the BCM. This is the one with the jumpered wire from pin 87 to 30. When I went back to stock I removed the jumper like before I did the CLB install.
Still get the code with stock wiring so guess the CLB must be OK.
Battery sat overnight and measured with multimeter with neg cable removed. 12.75 volts. Did not check gauges on DIC but used the multimeter so assuming battery is good. Only 3.5 months old.
Got the following codes:
10-PCM no codes
28-TCS 1255H
40-BCM B2587H
B2592H
B2723H
58-SDM No codes
60-IPC No codes
80-Radio No communication
99-HVAC B0338 H C
B0367H
AO-LDCM No codes
A1-RDCM No codes
A6-SCM No codes
BO-RFA U1096H
U1064H
U1016H
As to the HVAC I could not clear the codes. The B0338H C would not clear and just stayed on the display. After two or three tries to clear it the B0367H would come back also, although I could clear it but it would later return. Never could get the B0338H C to clear. After checking it shows the air temp sensor is the code and at the moment I do have it out and disconnected via having the underdash taken apart to switch the CLB around and back so that should probably clear when I reinstall everything.
No blown fuses and all grounds are tight and making contact as they should.
Still have the same Service Column Lock.
Still get the code with stock wiring so guess the CLB must be OK.
Battery sat overnight and measured with multimeter with neg cable removed. 12.75 volts. Did not check gauges on DIC but used the multimeter so assuming battery is good. Only 3.5 months old.
Got the following codes:
10-PCM no codes
28-TCS 1255H
40-BCM B2587H
B2592H
B2723H
58-SDM No codes
60-IPC No codes
80-Radio No communication
99-HVAC B0338 H C
B0367H
AO-LDCM No codes
A1-RDCM No codes
A6-SCM No codes
BO-RFA U1096H
U1064H
U1016H
As to the HVAC I could not clear the codes. The B0338H C would not clear and just stayed on the display. After two or three tries to clear it the B0367H would come back also, although I could clear it but it would later return. Never could get the B0338H C to clear. After checking it shows the air temp sensor is the code and at the moment I do have it out and disconnected via having the underdash taken apart to switch the CLB around and back so that should probably clear when I reinstall everything.
No blown fuses and all grounds are tight and making contact as they should.
Still have the same Service Column Lock.
Last edited by mophead; Oct 24, 2010 at 02:04 PM.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 404
Likes: 6
From: Amarillo Texas
It appears we have this fixed. Between the collectively stupid and blind (myself) and all the help offered here the car now runs as it should.
After buying the Corvette I did the CLB which is recommended to do. Apparently I did it incorrectly. My car has the relay installed just above the BCM so I installed the CLB, went to the relay and removed it from the holder, installed the jumper wire, and put it back in. After going back to the front of this thread and reading it again for the umpteenth time it hit me that the actual relay itself is to be taken out of the loop and then the jumper wire added in. I had left the relay connected, installed the jumper and went on about my business. Just lucky that the Service Column Lock did not appear on a couple of long trips or it would have been costly. So now the actual relay is in the glove compartment and not in the circuit. Jumper installed as it should be.
Just to be sure this is correct is it not?
Part two of this escapade involved not being able to tell the #25 fuse was blown. I have pulled fuses and reinstalled them until I know the fuse box by heart and could never find anything wrong. This morning I pulled #25 again, held it to the light, again, and caught a glimpse of what I thought might have been a weak point in the fuse wire. Sure enough it was blown but nowhere near to the extent you normally see a blown fuse. Most of the time they are readily apparent as to having been blown. It was almost like it blew and then welded itself back together. Almost. Continuity check zero. New fuse check, continuity.
Reinstalled new fuse in #25, got the relay thing done correctly (I think) and no more Pull Key/Service Column Lock message.
Actually took the car around the block and it runs like a top.
So thank you 8VETTE7 for your patience and tutorials. The more I looked at this thing the more blind I became thinking everything was done correctly up until now. It had absolutely nothing to do with the stereo install and all to do with the improper installation of the CLB the first time.
So in case I have missed something here please pile on and any corrections will gladly be accepted.
I do intend to get a tune and get the fuel shutoff raised to 255 or whatever they can do just to be on the safe side. This should be seen as a blessing that it happened in the shop at home instead of 500 miles away and considerable expense would have been incurred.
Perhaps this self confession
will help someone else from repeating the same mistakes I made and make their ownership experience somewhat more pleasurable.
I guess if this were easy the thread would not be 70 pages long so thanks for all the help and advice. I will buy the beer and your choice of steak should we ever meet 8VETTE7. THANKS!
After buying the Corvette I did the CLB which is recommended to do. Apparently I did it incorrectly. My car has the relay installed just above the BCM so I installed the CLB, went to the relay and removed it from the holder, installed the jumper wire, and put it back in. After going back to the front of this thread and reading it again for the umpteenth time it hit me that the actual relay itself is to be taken out of the loop and then the jumper wire added in. I had left the relay connected, installed the jumper and went on about my business. Just lucky that the Service Column Lock did not appear on a couple of long trips or it would have been costly. So now the actual relay is in the glove compartment and not in the circuit. Jumper installed as it should be.
Just to be sure this is correct is it not?
Part two of this escapade involved not being able to tell the #25 fuse was blown. I have pulled fuses and reinstalled them until I know the fuse box by heart and could never find anything wrong. This morning I pulled #25 again, held it to the light, again, and caught a glimpse of what I thought might have been a weak point in the fuse wire. Sure enough it was blown but nowhere near to the extent you normally see a blown fuse. Most of the time they are readily apparent as to having been blown. It was almost like it blew and then welded itself back together. Almost. Continuity check zero. New fuse check, continuity.
Reinstalled new fuse in #25, got the relay thing done correctly (I think) and no more Pull Key/Service Column Lock message.
Actually took the car around the block and it runs like a top.
So thank you 8VETTE7 for your patience and tutorials. The more I looked at this thing the more blind I became thinking everything was done correctly up until now. It had absolutely nothing to do with the stereo install and all to do with the improper installation of the CLB the first time.
So in case I have missed something here please pile on and any corrections will gladly be accepted.
I do intend to get a tune and get the fuel shutoff raised to 255 or whatever they can do just to be on the safe side. This should be seen as a blessing that it happened in the shop at home instead of 500 miles away and considerable expense would have been incurred.
Perhaps this self confession
will help someone else from repeating the same mistakes I made and make their ownership experience somewhat more pleasurable. I guess if this were easy the thread would not be 70 pages long so thanks for all the help and advice. I will buy the beer and your choice of steak should we ever meet 8VETTE7. THANKS!
Racer
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 404
Likes: 6
From: Amarillo Texas
We have a guy here in town that uses HP tuners and is pretty sharp on tunes. I am going to have him up the value on the fuel shut off and then have him tune the rest while he has it at the shop. And thanks for the tip on checking the fuses. I don't know how many times I looked at that damn fuse and saw it to be good when it wasn't. 57 year old eyes just catch up with you I guess.
Thanks again for all your help!
Thanks again for all your help!
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Arg
It happened to me too. after owning the car for 10 days it locked up (while at autozone =( ). Got it unlocked w/ a shake and pulling the #23 fuse. got home and read this entire thread front to back.
Got a new battery (car came w/ a red top) and topped off the charge of the new one before install. pulled the #23 fuse. grabbed my spare key and it worked. tried it 3 or 4 time on and off. worked every time.
Drove it to and from work w/o any issues.
Went out about 30min after I got home to test my luck.
And it would not unlock. Now I am stuck until the bypass gets here.
Got a new battery (car came w/ a red top) and topped off the charge of the new one before install. pulled the #23 fuse. grabbed my spare key and it worked. tried it 3 or 4 time on and off. worked every time.
Drove it to and from work w/o any issues.
Went out about 30min after I got home to test my luck.
And it would not unlock. Now I am stuck until the bypass gets here.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
What year is your car and is it an auto or manual??
If you read the thread front to back you would know that there are several possibilities that can get the car going again until the CLB arrives. Such as remove the GM K Harness if one is installed, replace or bypass the Column Lock relay depending on year and trans type.
If you read the thread front to back you would know that there are several possibilities that can get the car going again until the CLB arrives. Such as remove the GM K Harness if one is installed, replace or bypass the Column Lock relay depending on year and trans type.
It should have a recall done(Ver.B guessing) if i can get out a little earily today ill see if i cant check to make sure.
thanks
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Chances are pretty good that it has the GM K Harness installed. Here is a link to a picture of one:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...l-locking.html
Then scroll to post #8.
The K Harness is easily recognised by the female connector that has only two wires, one white and one purple, going into it. Disconnect BOTH ends of the K harness. Then take the male connector from the column lock motor (wires appear to go up into the column) and connect it to the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash. This brings the wiring back to what came from the factory. Low battery conditions seem to destroy the relays that are associated with the column lock system. Then clear all the codes and see what you have. Here is a link to a procedure about pulling and clearing codes:
http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php
If that doesn't clear the problem then try replacing the Column Lock relay. (About $15 - $20 from most parts stores and $50 from the dealer) It's on the passenger side in the footwell to the left of the fuse box and above the BCM. It's the relay that has the following wires going into the wiring base:
1 White
2 Orange
1 Green and
1 Purple
Don't forget to clear codes after you replace the CL relay.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...l-locking.html
Then scroll to post #8.
The K Harness is easily recognised by the female connector that has only two wires, one white and one purple, going into it. Disconnect BOTH ends of the K harness. Then take the male connector from the column lock motor (wires appear to go up into the column) and connect it to the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash. This brings the wiring back to what came from the factory. Low battery conditions seem to destroy the relays that are associated with the column lock system. Then clear all the codes and see what you have. Here is a link to a procedure about pulling and clearing codes:
http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php
If that doesn't clear the problem then try replacing the Column Lock relay. (About $15 - $20 from most parts stores and $50 from the dealer) It's on the passenger side in the footwell to the left of the fuse box and above the BCM. It's the relay that has the following wires going into the wiring base:
1 White
2 Orange
1 Green and
1 Purple
Don't forget to clear codes after you replace the CL relay.
checked the near the BCM and found 2 relays
I am assuming relay #2 is the Column Lock relay and not the harness K..
I dont want to just start unplugging stuff under there w/o being sure first.
Thanks again.
Last edited by OpCode; Oct 27, 2010 at 06:45 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,346
Likes: 41
From: Toronto
Just want to say a big THANK YOU to 8VETTE7.
I bought a 99 in Nevada, and had it shipped to Buffalo.
The previous owner had the steering column recall done beginning of October.
Upon arrival at the storage facility in Buffalo they told me that the car would start, but kept stalling.
I pm'ed 8VETTE7 and he spent a lot of time walking me through the possibilities and directing me to the appropriate posts.
I ordered the CLB from Corvettes of Houston.
Managed to get the car on trailer (at 2mph or less)to get it home.
Once here it was easy to find the k harness, remove it,and bypass the spliced purple repair that GM had done. I then cleared the codes, removed fuse 25 for a minute and reinserted.
Car now goes over 2mph, and no codes. Perfect.
Again, a huge thanks to 8VETTE7. He is the expert on the column lock problem.
I bought a 99 in Nevada, and had it shipped to Buffalo.
The previous owner had the steering column recall done beginning of October.
Upon arrival at the storage facility in Buffalo they told me that the car would start, but kept stalling.
I pm'ed 8VETTE7 and he spent a lot of time walking me through the possibilities and directing me to the appropriate posts.
I ordered the CLB from Corvettes of Houston.
Managed to get the car on trailer (at 2mph or less)to get it home.
Once here it was easy to find the k harness, remove it,and bypass the spliced purple repair that GM had done. I then cleared the codes, removed fuse 25 for a minute and reinserted.
Car now goes over 2mph, and no codes. Perfect.
Again, a huge thanks to 8VETTE7. He is the expert on the column lock problem.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
The K Harness would be on the drivers side behind the knee bolster.
You mentioned that you have a white, purple, green and black wire under the dash. Are those the colors of the wires that go toward the drivers side of the column or the colors that go toward the center console?
If they are the colors that go toward the drivers side, follow the wires. If the wires go into a relay like is pictured in the link I posted, that is the GM K Harness. Find the pair of wires that are white and purple and go into a female connector. Disconnect the female connector and then go back to the four wires that went into the male connector and disconnect it as well. Then there will be a male connector that the wires to it appear to go up into the column. That is the connector from the column lock motor.
From the factory that male connector was plugged directly into the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash. Plug the male connector into the female connector. That eliminates the K Harness from the circuit.
You will still need to clear codes.
You mentioned that you have a white, purple, green and black wire under the dash. Are those the colors of the wires that go toward the drivers side of the column or the colors that go toward the center console?
If they are the colors that go toward the drivers side, follow the wires. If the wires go into a relay like is pictured in the link I posted, that is the GM K Harness. Find the pair of wires that are white and purple and go into a female connector. Disconnect the female connector and then go back to the four wires that went into the male connector and disconnect it as well. Then there will be a male connector that the wires to it appear to go up into the column. That is the connector from the column lock motor.
From the factory that male connector was plugged directly into the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash. Plug the male connector into the female connector. That eliminates the K Harness from the circuit.
You will still need to clear codes.
any pic request that could help you help me?
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
It may not have a K Harness installed. Or if one was installed it is possible that it got removed before you took ownership of the car. Here is a link to a pic of a K Harness but it is not installed. Unfortunately I do not have a picture of an installed one at this time:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...l-locking.html
Then scroll to post #8
The male connector has 4 wires, 1 white, 1 green 1 black and 1 purple.
The female connector has 1 white and 1 purple wire.
On your 02 the purple wire on the passenger side in the footwell should not be a spliced connection. It should all be factory looking wiring since the 5 connector CL relay was done at the factory. That started on thee 01 manual trans cars.
Have you found the female connector on the drivers side that is attached to the bottom of the dash? The male connector that plugs into the female connector should have the following color wires Black, Green, White and Purple. If those wires go up into the steering column, then you DO NOT have a K Harness. If those wires go into a black "carflex" wire protector than you DO have a K harness. Follow the black carflex back to the relay. that is the K Harness relay.
What is the current status of your car???
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...l-locking.html
Then scroll to post #8
The male connector has 4 wires, 1 white, 1 green 1 black and 1 purple.
The female connector has 1 white and 1 purple wire.
On your 02 the purple wire on the passenger side in the footwell should not be a spliced connection. It should all be factory looking wiring since the 5 connector CL relay was done at the factory. That started on thee 01 manual trans cars.
Have you found the female connector on the drivers side that is attached to the bottom of the dash? The male connector that plugs into the female connector should have the following color wires Black, Green, White and Purple. If those wires go up into the steering column, then you DO NOT have a K Harness. If those wires go into a black "carflex" wire protector than you DO have a K harness. Follow the black carflex back to the relay. that is the K Harness relay.
What is the current status of your car???
but i cant figured out what to do next.
I just pulled the under hood fues 23. going to replace the rear rotors while i wait for any responses.
the female side looks built into the main wiring harness.
Female side of connection
Male side( to column-lock)
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Ok, I think i got it.
I bypassed the relay and installed the CLB. pulled the BCM fuses to clear the codes.
waited 5min. put the fuses back in and no errors.
I am guessing maybe the changed the wiring colors at some point.
and the recall work they did was only the reflash. I could not find a K harness.
thanks for the help guys!
I bypassed the relay and installed the CLB. pulled the BCM fuses to clear the codes.
waited 5min. put the fuses back in and no errors.
I am guessing maybe the changed the wiring colors at some point.
and the recall work they did was only the reflash. I could not find a K harness.
thanks for the help guys!
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Service Column Lock - Message Only, No Issue
I am original owner of 2004 and have never had any type of column lock issue. I now see the "Service Column Lock" message immediately after start-up but can press the "Reset" button on the dash and the message disappears and car works just fine. If I do not press the "Reset" button and leave the mesage on the display, car still works just fine. Is this a precursor to the dreaded Column Lock problem that makes the car inoperable?