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Update: Okay so I figured I would take a look and see if I could see the factory recall wiring harness, and I think I found it... BUT its all jacked up? I don't know if this is standard wiring (I'm being sarcastic) but you tell me.
I have a photo I'll post below and a video because you can't see everything in the photo. I would appreciate any advice on how to fix this wiring issue. If it is correctly wired then I will properly solder the connections rather than duct tape and wiring crimps.
I have a 99 that had the recall done in 2006. The car is a 6 speed and the column doesn't lock. I want to install the COH CLB that I have in hand, but want to make sure I remove all traces of the "recall" so I don't cause the issue. I have had the car 6 months and the message and stall have only happened 2x and that was before replacing the battery. When the K harness is installed, does Chevy leave the old harness in the car, so I just need to remove and unplug it?
I intend to install my CLB, just don't want to CAUSE myself issues.
There were many variations of the GM Column Lock Recall service. If your wheel no longer locks you may have the variation (04006C) that replaced the lock ring with a smaller diameter ring that no longer allows the lock pin to intercept the lock ring. However, you may have either the GM K Harness and/or the spliced purple wire shown above (MN6 only). You most likely also have the fuel shutoff reprogrammed to 2mph. Unfortunately there is no way to know exactly what has been done to the car short of looking. I had never seen a K harness AND the spliced purple wire done to the same car until several weeks back. According to the GM install instructions this should not happen. But obviously the Techs that work on the cars at the Stealerships are often not top notch anything let alone mechanics. Look for both the K harness under the drivers side knee bolster as well as the spliced purple wire in the passenger footwell above the BCM. In order for the CLB to work properly you need to remove all the GM handi-work first. Rather than retype what I have explained countless times before, I suggest that you read the first two pages of this thread for some background and then the last 10 pages or so of this thread. I explain how to identify the GM K harness, what to do to remove it, the spliced purple wire and relay mod and how to bypass that as well. And as I have said countless times in this thread CHECK the battery voltage with a digital voltmeter with NO KEY in the ignition directly across the battery posts. Dash gage reqadings CANNOT tell you the state of health of the battery. Engine running and they report the output voltage of the alternator. Unfortunately the column lock logic runs LONG before the engine starts. Key on and engine off and there are many electrical circuits loading the battery so that reading means nothing. NO KEY in the ignition and directly across the battery posts is close enough but the ideal reading is with the Neg battery cable disconnected.
Feel free to PM me if you still have questions after you read what I suggested.
Thanks, I have read the whole thread at least 1x and get confused due to the variations, etc of the different recalls. Mine stalled when the remove key warning came on, but both times were before I replaced the battery with a new one and they were "short/quick" key start blips, not the normal way I start the car.
I will review the pictures again and look for the purple wire splice and K harness under the column. I just want to make sure that I DON'T start a problem I am not having yet by installing the CLB and not making sure to do my homework first.
Thanks to 8VETTE7, I got a clear explanation of the situation and went ahead and purchased the CLB.
I soldered the connections together and the column unlocked. Isn't it amazing how doing the job right prevents future problems and corrections... if only the dealership had the same mindset...
Even though the problem was "resolved" I still installed the CLB because if I ever have a future problem I don't want to have my wheels locked if I ever needed a tow.
I have attached a picture for reference of the work performed if anyone ever needed to do this for themselves.
Everything went smoothly except I have one little issue now that I need help with.
My "easy entry" system doesn't work anymore. When I park the car and remove the key from the ignition the seat does not slide back at all. If I hit the button on the side the seat moves freely or if I hit a preset seat option on the door panel it goes to that position with no issues.
New Case: My 2001 C5 6spd column locked last week. Never did it before. No CLB installed, No recall performed. 9 yrs ago I ordered the CLB so it was on the shelf. Manual thrust of the wheel didnt help, so I in stalled the CLB. 12v cig wire did the trick, column unlocked. And has stayed unlocked. However, I cant clear the "service col lock" so I cant move the car under power. I pulled fuses 23, 25,29 in pass. footwell. Charged the 2 yr old Optima redtop , even though it had plenty juice to crank the car. Disconnected the neg terminal overnight, pulled fuses again and still have "serv col lock" and can't drive over 2mph. Any advice?? I am also getting the "service active handling" along with the "col lock" but I have gotten the act handing alert many times after the car site for a while and it clears with in a half mile or so once under way. ....thanks in advance
Anyone? Buehler ? Alittle help? Car is stranded in driveway 2 weeks now , If someone has a next step I'd appreciate it. Recall was never done. Computer has Cartek tune. See specifics above...thanks 8Vette7...for the great thread.
Thanks Cscokd, my column is now unlocked. I turned the wheel left and right fairly hard and removed fuse 23 the first time...didn't do it....turned the steering wheel left and right hard enough to rock the steering column and tilted the wheel up and down and then it worked.
With all the B.S. on the internet its nice to see a site with tremendous value.
Yup, measured 12.15 across the terminals. Been charging it intermittently through all this , but never enough I guess. If it won't hold high 12's I'll throw a new battery in. SO i'll charge and pull those fuses and try again..THANKS guys.
Car was working fine with 2 points of interest.
A. I had listened to the radio the night before may have pulled the battery down a bit but car started and ran fine
B. Had some water in the passenger footwall from HVAC condensate or cowl drain "feature". Not sure if related but BCM was not wet. A few of the wires going into BCM did get a little wet but dry now.
Just had drove 60 miles, pulled into pee. Went to start car. Pull Key.. and Service Column Lock and fuel cutoff
What I've done:
Pulled 25 and 23 God knows how many times.
Replaced battery
Trailered car home
Ordered CLB from Corvettes of Houston
Had tuner come to house to override 2 MPH Fuel Shutoff
Car now goes but still complains about ECL
Disconnected Battery
Pulled BCM and opened. Inspected for corrosion on pins and board.
Replaced BCM
Installed Battery
Installed CLB that came in this morning
put key in and Get Pull Key...
Pulled key waited and then Service Column Lock
Pulled 23, 25 and 29
Tried again same result
Measured Voltage at Battery. Below 12 (on new Battery)
Started car and let battery charge.
Killed car, Measured voltage at 12.7
Pulled 23, 25 wait and replace
put key in and Get Pull Key...
Checked continuity on 9, 13,19,22,23,25,47,50
Cussed GM called them a *^$%#^%&^@)$ and a @#%$^*%+*
Which way to jump. I have not measured signals coming from BCM, I'm about to dig through the thread again to find what does what.
Try replacing the CL relay in the passenger footwell.
I bet you that does the trick. It did for me.
Go back in this thread and look for my posts. You'll see in detail what I went through.
I'll go get one right now!
Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
with TraceZ. The Column Lock Relay may have failed. It's in the passenger footwell to the left of the IP fuse box and above the BCM. It is the relay that has 2 orange wires, 1 white wire and 1 green wire going into the wiring base.
It is also unclear if you removed the GM K Harness. To properly install a CLB you need to disconnect BOTH ends of the K harness and then plug the CLB male connector into the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash. If you plugged the CLB into a female connector that has only 2 wires, 1 white and 1 purple, then you have the CLB plugged into the K Harness. That will not work.
Last step is to clear all the error messages in the DIC and DTC's set in the BCM. I find the best way to do this is to disconnect the neg battery cable for at least 10 minutes.
If after these items you still have error messages in the DIC then you may have one of the few early cars that do not work with a CLB. You may be relagated to living with the DIC error messages.
Yes, I removed the K Harness. Thanks for the relay description too!
I'll post results later. Thanks for the fast reply!
Last edited by PTBradford; Sep 22, 2010 at 02:54 PM.
PROBLEM SOLVED! Thank you very much TraceZ and of course 8VETTE7 for being right on! Changed out the Column Lock Relay per 8VETTE7's description and we are back in business. What an aggravating issue.
FYI on Part Numbers
Old GM PN = 12177235 Four Pin Relay
New GM PN = 12177233 Five Pin relay
Stealership wanted $42.84, Local parts store was $19.99
Entire episode cost me about $225.00 for battery, parts, pizza and tune when all I needed was the CL relay. Glad to have the tune though.
PROBLEM SOLVED! Thank you very much TraceZ and of course 8VETTE7 for being right on! Changed out the Column Lock Relay per 8VETTE7's description and we are back in business. What an aggravating issue.
FYI on Part Numbers
Old GM PN = 12177235 Four Pin Relay
New GM PN = 12177233 Five Pin relay
Stealership wanted $42.84, Local parts store was $19.99
Entire episode cost me about $225.00 for battery, parts, pizza and tune when all I needed was the CL relay. Glad to have the tune though.
I have read most of the reports on the "Service Steering Column" problems for C5's but I just experienced it for the first time on my 98 C5 w/auto tranny and had it towed to the dealer in AZ. Here is what he told me they were doing: replacing a harness per recall 04006. He wasn't sure if they were going to also remove the locking plate in the column and he said that they were not sure that this would fix my problem, He said that if the new harness didn't fix my problem that they would start the diagosis (charging me I think) part of the resolution until they figured out what was needed to fix the problem.
Before I go down this rabbit hole as many readers have before, should GM recall 04006 fix my problem? As far as I know no other steering column recall work was performed on this vehicle and I am the orginal owner. Should I have to pay to get this problem fixed when there have been hundreds af cars "fixed" already?
Help as I was told that they wouldn't receive the new harness until next Tuesday or Wed, (9/8 or 9/29) and could not determine anything until they replace the harness.
Should I be looking at having my Vette towed to another dealer if they do not also remove the locking plate as described in the recall notice?
I have read most of the reports on the "Service Steering Column" problems for C5's but I just experienced it for the first time on my 98 C5 w/auto tranny and had it towed to the dealer in AZ. Here is what he told me they were doing: replacing a harness per recall 04006. He wasn't sure if they were going to also remove the locking plate in the column and he said that they were not sure that this would fix my problem, He said that if the new harness didn't fix my problem that they would start the diagosis (charging me I think) part of the resolution until they figured out what was needed to fix the problem.
Before I go down this rabbit hole as many readers have before, should GM recall 04006 fix my problem? As far as I know no other steering column recall work was performed on this vehicle and I am the orginal owner. Should I have to pay to get this problem fixed when there have been hundreds af cars "fixed" already?
Help as I was told that they wouldn't receive the new harness until next Tuesday or Wed, (9/8 or 9/29) and could not determine anything until they replace the harness.
Should I be looking at having my Vette towed to another dealer if they do not also remove the locking plate as described in the recall notice?
8VETTE7 has more real life experience on this issue than 99.99% of any dealer techs. It will behoove you to listen very carefully to his advice
Here's my experience, several years ago I had the 1st. relay done at the dealer. Didn't last more than a few weeks and by then they had the "newer" relay which they installed along with the plate which blocked the actuator pin. (This is a 2000 A4) Tech brought my car around and when I went to start it the message was there. He then called GM tech assistance and was essentially told that the GM relays were junk........They told him to remove the relay and put the wiring back to stock.
I got the CLB installed and have never had a problem since
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