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so i just finished the install, everything looks fine. no k harness, no appearance of any splices or anything disturbed in the footwell, so apparently i had the lock plate replacement and reprogram done previously. [or my lock just plain didn't lock]
when you explain that if you have the purple wire splice in the footwell and you have to do the jumper wire to bypass the relay, what happens if you have it and don't bypass it?
thanks for all the help. sometimes when a subject has too much input,[like 1200+posts] a novice has a hard time pulling all the parts together to address their concerns and appreciate being led around a little.
true, i wasn't thinking when i said maybe the lock wasn't locking.
since i wasn't having any problems before, and i'm not now, i guess it's safe to assume i don't have the splice done and just don't see it.
i think after learning as much as i have on this subject, it may be cheap insurance to carry a spare clb in the car also.
thanks again.
CLB is extremely unlikely to fail. I would spend the $50 on somethig other than a second CLB. Perhaps put it toward having the fuel shutoff reprogrammed. The column can never lock again once you disconnected the actuator. Therefore the only thing left that can happen is the fuel shutoff. It can occur if the battery goes low or the CLB were to fail or the column lock relay (still in place since you did not have the spliced purple wire) were to fail. Any of those will result in the Fuel shutoff occurring. Reprogramming the fuel shutoff to 255mph means that even if any of these things happen the car WILL BE DRIVEABLE if you can get it started. Cost of a reprogram is about $100 if you can find the tuner with HP Tuners or EFI live.
so other than warnings in my display, the only 2 issues are steering wheel locking, which can't happen without power to it, and fuel shut off, which can't happen if it's changed to 255 mph.
well, i was contemplating a tune at carlisle anyway, soooo, i guess i'll do it. i just have to research back and see if i can find the tuner that everyone seemed to like, ecw, or e-something, i think i know where i saw it.
This thread is perhaps becoming a bit too big to be useful anymore. I do have two questions after reading most of it.
1) With the CLB installed, you can still get the Service Column lock message displayed?
2) The CLB will stop the message in most cases?
My car (01 6speed) has the message (Pull key followed by Service column lock) and yet the column lock is working fine, it unlocks and locks perfectly. I can also drive the car with no fuel shut off. I am currently charging the battery as a test, voltage was 12.45 across the terminals, which is technically fine and considered "charged".
This thread is perhaps becoming a bit too big to be useful anymore. I do have two questions after reading most of it.
1) With the CLB installed, you can still get the Service Column lock message displayed?
2) The CLB will stop the message in most cases?
My car (01 6speed) has the message (Pull key followed by Service column lock) and yet the column lock is working fine, it unlocks and locks perfectly. I can also drive the car with no fuel shut off. I am currently charging the battery as a test, voltage was 12.45 across the terminals, which is technically fine and considered "charged".
i thought the same thing. but it seems more productive to start at this end of the thread and go backwards, at least after viewing the first couple of pages at the beginning. as long as you have people with patience, and knowledge of where to glean the information specific to your questions it works pretty well.
Actually 12.45 volts is NOT considered charged for a C5. Here are a couple of video's that you might want to review that talks specifically about 12.5 volts being the minimum for many of the electronic systems in the C5 to function properly. Yet it is possible to start the car with as little as 12.2 volts across the battery posts with no key in the ignition. End result is that starting a C5, that can experience the column lock symptoms, using a battery measuring less than 12.5 volts pretty much guarantees the column lock symptoms.
For what it is worth, without knowing what has been done to your car relative to the column lock system means that it is anyones guess what symptoms you will observe. There are at least 4 varuations of the GM column Lock recall service, at least two predacessor column lock services that GM was doing prior to the formal recall (Began Jan. 2004), previous owners may have modified and or removed the recall components that GM installed, reprogrammed the fuel shutoff to a high number like 255mph, installed a CLB, etc, etc.
After charging it is a good idea to reset the BC, correct? Or will the charge (if that is in fact the issue) make the column lock system work properly alone?
1) Disconnect the battery Neg cable for at least overnight. Then remeasure the voltage across the battery posts with NO KEY in the ignition. If the voltage is back down near 12.5 volts ( fully charged good battery should measure 12.7 to 12.9 volts or more) the battery is done as it doesn not hold a charge with no load attached.
2) If the battery is good then you need to clear the errors in the DIC and any DTC's set in the BCM in order for the column lock condition to be cleared.
Thanks, I may go get a new battery anyway. I've had the car for 4 years so far and it has the same 3yr Walmart battery in it that I got it with. I think its about time.
Don't be surprised if the problem still exists after you correct the battery problem and clear the errors and codes. For some reason the relays seem to fail coincident with low battery problems. At least that has been my observation. If that is true in your case you could try removing the K Harness completely and plugging the male connector from the actuator back into the female connector attached to the bottom of the dash. That is back to facory wiring before the rrecall service.
Yup, thats what I did.
After some investigation, resetting the BCM, clearing codes, disconnecting the battery for a while and then and replacing the battery, The GM K harness was the culprit. I removed the K Harness (the white Tyco part # 15477384) and plugging the column lock back together, the message is gone.
I am ordering a CLB just to be safe.
Last edited by Chevy Guy; Aug 15, 2010 at 02:58 PM.
1998, 53,000 miles, no issues, and I did not have the recall performed. So 2 weeks ago the wife backs the vette out of the garage, gets two feet, stalls, starts it again, two feet. I am sitting on on the couch and I know the message, pull the key and so fourth. Try all the standard pull the fuse stuff. Dragged it dwon to the dealer on the trailer, they install the harness and the lock plate, still an issue. They call me and tell me GM says they will not cover the lock motor, which is the issue. So I called and talked to customer service, frustrating cal, and still no money for the $350.00 the want for the lock motor.
When it first happening I called Thunder products and ordred the CLB, was on back order for a week or so, so I thought OK, let GM take a swing with the recall.
I told the local dealer (which was great) that GM is not going to do anything. I said I have a back up plan, I will be down to trailer it back to the bat cave. CLB came today, plugged it in and in 15 minutes had the issue resolved! Thanks toall who post!!!!
Brand new member...Just bought a 2001 MN6 with 43K miles today for my wife as a gift and while the dealer was trying to take the car to fill up the gas tank after I finished the paperwork, the steering column lock activated and we could not take final delivery. Technically, I own the car since all the paperwork was signed, but I have 3 days to cancel the deal, but I want this car.
What advice can you give me to make sure tis gets fixed right by the dealer? I read much of the sticky info on the issue, but being a new vette owner, alot of it does not make sense to me and I need to make a decision quick.
Many thanks to 8VETTE7 without his advise my CLB install would have been much harder. My car had the last GM recall (K-Harness) done so the wiring colors were different and I would not have known this by the instructions. Thunder Racing sells 30 CLB'S a week and were back ordered 2 weeks. Some suggestions gleaned from my install especially for those who have had a recall done would be, define the plug location as left of the large yellow connector as you are sitting in the drivers seat or drivers side. When you are laying on your back it is opposite. The colors of the new K-Harness wires are black, white, green, and purple and it only has 1 tail not 2. When I finished and reinstalled fuse 25 the DIC indication were totally scrambled, I pulled the fuse and waited 10 minutes, reinstalled and every thing has worked fine ever since with no fault indications. The motor in the steering column no longer whines. I left the K harness under the dash in case the new part fails I could always re install it.
Thanks again for the great advise, keep up the good work.
Quick question. My "Service Column Lock" message is displaying once again. The last time I had my car towed to the dealership and they told me that it was a bad relay the "C1" relay. I don't know which relay this is but I'm not totally convinced that this was the issue then.
To make a long story short. They told me that the recall was performed. They did not say which kind of recall was performed.
I wanted to know if I purchase the CLB from one of the vendors mentioned in this post can I just install it and it will work? Or will there be a problem if there was a previous wiring harness installed or flash programming done or both?
Currently my column is locked and if it wasn't and the car was turned off with the key out the column would lock if I turned the wheel.
I have a 1999 C5 6 speed.
I would like to know before I go ahead and order this. I'm not taking this back to Chevy for them to tell me its a relay issue and charge me another $500 for diagnosis and "fixing" the problem.
Update: Okay so I figured I would take a look and see if I could see the factory recall wiring harness, and I think I found it... BUT its all jacked up? I don't know if this is standard wiring (I'm being sarcastic) but you tell me.
I have a photo I'll post below and a video because you can't see everything in the photo. I would appreciate any advice on how to fix this wiring issue. If it is correctly wired then I will properly solder the connections rather than duct tape and wiring crimps.
That's an abortion....a dealer didn't actually charge $500 for that third grade level work did they? And yes, I'd get the CLB from a source like COH
I'm not sure the dealer did this because this did have a previous owner. The previous owner only had this car until 22,500 miles though then I obtained this car. It was well taken care of and lightly driven and I would doubt a person who takes that much care of a car would do this hack job but you never know.
So what is this hack job supposed to represent? Should I remove this wiring or clean it up and do it right? I will go ahead and purchase the CLB but I need to know what other things need to be done to make sure the CLB works flawlessly.
OH btw, when I pulled the 23rd fuse it was blown, its since been replaced but I think it will blow again if I don't fix this wire job.
I'd suggest pm'ing 8VETTE7 he has a great feel for the wiring and quite a few informative posts in this thread. My car was clean of any do it yourself wiring when I did the clb............
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