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Steering Column Lock FAQs - please read before you post (sticky please)
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Mount Juliet TN
You can ask the local dealer to work on the lock system but most likely it will be at your expense. GM has already performed the recall service on the car and their policy as of March 2008 is that any recall work on the lock system after they have peformed at least one recall service at their cost is at the owners expense. Worth a try but don't expect the service to be free.
Before I can offer additional suggestions I need to know what year the car is and if it is a manual or automatic trans. Both make a difference in what may have been done by GM in the recall service they did on
08/10/2004.
Before I can offer additional suggestions I need to know what year the car is and if it is a manual or automatic trans. Both make a difference in what may have been done by GM in the recall service they did on
08/10/2004.
I just went out and put the charged original battery that I took out of the car and all it does is click in the passenger footwell. I took the cover off and the clicking seems to be coming from the BCM, or the big silver electrical box in there beside the fuse box. Is that the BCM? Like I said before when I charged the original the first time it unlock. I tried it several times and it worked. Then the next day it was locked. So I bought a new interstate battery. It fixed it, then two days later its locked again. And the battery seems to be charged by checking it with the charger percentage and amps.
Last edited by Rcurry23; Jul 25, 2010 at 11:22 AM.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Mount Juliet TN
If you are going to play with the old battery you need to take it to a parts store and have it load tested. The way you are trying to determine the battery health is totally invalid. A charger will try to charge even a bad battery unless it is shorted internally. Measuring the voltage with a digital voltmeter will be a start but the charger and dash gages if the battery is in the car will tell you nothing significant about the battery health
99 with a manual trans is a place to start with determining what you can do to get around the locked column.
Start by checking under the drivers side knee bolster for the presence of the GM K harness. It looks like this:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...l-locking.html
Then scroll to post #8
To get the knee bolster down you need to read the first few pages of this link that has Pic's to help:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=24
The GM K Harness if it is installed will be connected in series between the Male connector of the lock motor (actuator) and the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash. Look for a female connector that has only two wires, one white and one purple, to easily recognise the GM K harness. Your car may or may not have one installed. If it is installed you need to disconnect BOTH ends of it and connect the male connector from the actuator (wires appear to go up into the column) to the female connector that had the K harness male connector plugged in. Then disconnect the neg battery cable for at least 10 minutes to clear DIC messages and any DTC's set in the BCM and try again.
If there was no GM K harness then you need to look in the passenger footwell fuse box area to the left of the fuse box and above the BCM (large silver box) for the presence of an obviously spliced purple wire with a relay that has the spliced purple wire going into it. It will look exactly like this:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...please-52.html
Then scroll to post #1030
That is a part of the recall service if it is installed. That relay has likely failed in the open state. If so you will want to order a CLB to install to prevent the problem from happening again. Corvettes of Houston, Corvettes of Dallas and Thunder racing have the CLB for about $50 plus shipping.
If you have the spliced purple wire and the relay then you will need to bypass the relay to be able to install a CLB. Here is the details on how to bypass the relay:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-was-done.html
Then scroll to post #3
If you still have questions about your issue feel free to PM me.
99 with a manual trans is a place to start with determining what you can do to get around the locked column.
Start by checking under the drivers side knee bolster for the presence of the GM K harness. It looks like this:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...l-locking.html
Then scroll to post #8
To get the knee bolster down you need to read the first few pages of this link that has Pic's to help:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=24
The GM K Harness if it is installed will be connected in series between the Male connector of the lock motor (actuator) and the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash. Look for a female connector that has only two wires, one white and one purple, to easily recognise the GM K harness. Your car may or may not have one installed. If it is installed you need to disconnect BOTH ends of it and connect the male connector from the actuator (wires appear to go up into the column) to the female connector that had the K harness male connector plugged in. Then disconnect the neg battery cable for at least 10 minutes to clear DIC messages and any DTC's set in the BCM and try again.
If there was no GM K harness then you need to look in the passenger footwell fuse box area to the left of the fuse box and above the BCM (large silver box) for the presence of an obviously spliced purple wire with a relay that has the spliced purple wire going into it. It will look exactly like this:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...please-52.html
Then scroll to post #1030
That is a part of the recall service if it is installed. That relay has likely failed in the open state. If so you will want to order a CLB to install to prevent the problem from happening again. Corvettes of Houston, Corvettes of Dallas and Thunder racing have the CLB for about $50 plus shipping.
If you have the spliced purple wire and the relay then you will need to bypass the relay to be able to install a CLB. Here is the details on how to bypass the relay:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-was-done.html
Then scroll to post #3
If you still have questions about your issue feel free to PM me.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Mount Juliet TN
Yes, I am certian I have the purple wire splice. I was actually going to ask about that next. So CLB is the fix? Or just a bandaid?
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
1998 C5 conv. intermittent no start?
Mr. Curlee, as most memebers would agree you have saved us lots of $$$ and headaches and thanks! Your info helped me much! My 1998 C5 has an intemittent no start which appears to be aggravated if i dont use the car for 3 or 4 days. NO codes/repeat NO codes. with the forums help i changed my ignition switch. seemed okay for a few starts on the same day I changed the switch but then problem surfaced again a few hours later- it is a simple: turn key to start and starter wont engage/nothing happens. Since everything is still apart i figured to change the cylinder but have not done this yet. Next is to clean/check all grounds as this seems to be a problem with C5s- one last piece of info (and all the forum members will kick my you know what for this: I do drive on a dirt road (scraped) to get to and from my house about 2 miles of this road each direction. Only other piece of info i could add (also why i think i need to inspect/change/clean all the grounds) is i also get intermittent (but almost only occurs after i hit a bump) service abs or charge system fault message, but again NO codes.
Owe you a beer! Thanks George
Owe you a beer! Thanks George
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Is it true if you have a 2001 6speed the recal done is just a flash to the computer? Ive had my car since new and it has 15000 miles on it and I did the recall back in 05, but it doesnt say exactly what was done.I do know my steering wheel doesnt ever lock at all. I havent been able to drive it for a month now since the battery died on me.I have put in a new battery and reset codes and pulled the fuses and checked them but I stll get the "service column lock" and "pull key and wait 10 sec" msg.
I have no problem buying and installing the CLB ,but what Ive read, it wont work unless I can get the car back to the way it was before I had the recall done,so how do I do that?
Will the dealership move the fuel cutoff up for me above the 2mph? Does someone with a programer live in the north central Florida area raise my fuel cutoff. I dont mind resetting the DIC everytime,as long as I can drive the car. P.S--I hope GM is reading all these posts, step up and be a MAN.Offer a true recall that eliminates the problem for good,NOT SOME BAND AID... I was thinking about buying a 2011 vette, hoping that all the bugs were fixed like I did when I waited till 2001, but Im unsure now. I work 70 hours a week and would like to drive my car instead of reading for 5 hours on how to fix it after it was supposedly fixed at the dealer!!!hmm maybe a Cobra
I have no problem buying and installing the CLB ,but what Ive read, it wont work unless I can get the car back to the way it was before I had the recall done,so how do I do that?
Will the dealership move the fuel cutoff up for me above the 2mph? Does someone with a programer live in the north central Florida area raise my fuel cutoff. I dont mind resetting the DIC everytime,as long as I can drive the car. P.S--I hope GM is reading all these posts, step up and be a MAN.Offer a true recall that eliminates the problem for good,NOT SOME BAND AID... I was thinking about buying a 2011 vette, hoping that all the bugs were fixed like I did when I waited till 2001, but Im unsure now. I work 70 hours a week and would like to drive my car instead of reading for 5 hours on how to fix it after it was supposedly fixed at the dealer!!!hmm maybe a Cobra
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,899
Likes: 0
I got desperate and took a hammer to the CL when it wouldn't unlock after all other tricks ...moderate force of course...I turn the key and BAM ( more like click-clack ) FINALLY it unlocks! I hurry and install the CLB ( I had already spliced and jumped the White and purple 30 and 87 wires) Hasn't had a hiccup since
I also want to thank 8VETTE7 for taking the time to PM me when I needed some extra detailed help!
I also want to thank 8VETTE7 for taking the time to PM me when I needed some extra detailed help!
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
This is what I did to get the 01 mn6 drivable. The column doesnt lock and it has the K harness,Im guessing the faulty one, and shuts off at 2mph and was displaying both error codes in the DIC. I yanked the harness K out and reconnected the male to the female of the stock harness from the BCM to the CL actuator.I drove the car for a while ,didnt get any msgs in the DIC ,EVERYTHING SEEMS COOL FOR NOW.I think I still might get the CLB anyway. Thanks for all the postings guys. James[IMG]
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Last edited by jmluke1; Jul 28, 2010 at 03:49 PM. Reason: spelling
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Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,899
Likes: 0
You can also take a hammer and carefully tap the CL housing to shock it. It worked for me, make sure to keep the key in the position II and unplug the harness to prevent the column from locking after you remove the key. Goodluck
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 9,220
Likes: 17
From: San Diego California
Perhaps a new one?
I haven't heard of this happening before.
Last night, I began to start the car and then the "pull key, wait ten seconds" readout came up on the DIC. The problem is I have the CLB installed from Corvettes of Houston for the last 3 years. It was the first mod I installed.
Now I just had H/C installed and the tune has not been finalized. Other than that I don't see what coyuld be going wrong. Could the CLB need to be replaced?
Last night, I began to start the car and then the "pull key, wait ten seconds" readout came up on the DIC. The problem is I have the CLB installed from Corvettes of Houston for the last 3 years. It was the first mod I installed.
Now I just had H/C installed and the tune has not been finalized. Other than that I don't see what coyuld be going wrong. Could the CLB need to be replaced?
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Mount Juliet TN
Got it unlocked. Worst part had my son helping, so I will not hear the end of him fixing it, but at this point, I DON'T CARE, its fixed! He grabbed 10 and 2 on the steering wheel and moved it hard, lock to lock while I put the key in, turned to on, but not start, turned to off, pulled key. Did that twice and it unlocked. CLB installed, 87 and 30 pins in the relay harness, bypassed with a paperclip.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,628
Likes: 397
From: Madison Wi
I haven't heard of this happening before.
Last night, I began to start the car and then the "pull key, wait ten seconds" readout came up on the DIC. The problem is I have the CLB installed from Corvettes of Houston for the last 3 years. It was the first mod I installed.
Now I just had H/C installed and the tune has not been finalized. Other than that I don't see what coyuld be going wrong. Could the CLB need to be replaced?
Last night, I began to start the car and then the "pull key, wait ten seconds" readout came up on the DIC. The problem is I have the CLB installed from Corvettes of Houston for the last 3 years. It was the first mod I installed.
Now I just had H/C installed and the tune has not been finalized. Other than that I don't see what coyuld be going wrong. Could the CLB need to be replaced?
1) low battery
2) Column lock relay failed
3) CLB failed
I'd start by checking the cheap things. Make sure the battery is at least 12.5 volts using a multimeter on the battery terminals with ignition off and the key removed.
The relay is $15. Replace that next. It's possible to test the old one, but as cheap as a new one is it's simpler for most people to just replace it.
Finally, order a new CLB.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 9,220
Likes: 17
From: San Diego California
One of 3 things:
1) low battery
2) Column lock relay failed
3) CLB failed
I'd start by checking the cheap things. Make sure the battery is at least 12.5 volts using a multimeter on the battery terminals with ignition off and the key removed.
The relay is $15. Replace that next. It's possible to test the old one, but as cheap as a new one is it's simpler for most people to just replace it.
Finally, order a new CLB.
1) low battery
2) Column lock relay failed
3) CLB failed
I'd start by checking the cheap things. Make sure the battery is at least 12.5 volts using a multimeter on the battery terminals with ignition off and the key removed.
The relay is $15. Replace that next. It's possible to test the old one, but as cheap as a new one is it's simpler for most people to just replace it.
Finally, order a new CLB.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,308
Likes: 1
From: The Beautiful Greater Bay Area California
Got it unlocked. Worst part had my son helping, so I will not hear the end of him fixing it, but at this point, I DON'T CARE, its fixed! He grabbed 10 and 2 on the steering wheel and moved it hard, lock to lock while I put the key in, turned to on, but not start, turned to off, pulled key. Did that twice and it unlocked. CLB installed, 87 and 30 pins in the relay harness, bypassed with a paperclip.
Yes, indeed! What is essential to realize is that one only needs to insert the key into the ignition, and then turn the key to the "ON" position ONLY, and NOT all the way to "START". This maneuver will then allow the actuator to disengage the locking pin from the locking plate. This function is audible as you will actually hear the locking pin and locking plate slide and disengage. And, at this point, you will then be able to unlock and turn the steering wheel. Moreover, it is essential to keep in mind all the important points that our fellow CF Member 8Vette7 has so kindly endeavored to explain in thoughtful detail throughout this thread. Bravo, my friend!
Lastly, it cannot be stressed in discussion enough how devastating a low battery is as one of THE main culprits for this dreaded idiosyncratic symptomology specific to the Corvette C5. 
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Column Lock
Fellow Corvette owners, I recently purchased a '01 C5 and within 2 weeks had the "Dreaded Steering Column Lock Out" and had it towed to the nearest dealer. None of the "tricks" worked. After sitting for a day at the dealer it cleared itself and worked fine. The previous owner had the first recall in '04 but knew nothing about subsequent recalls. The dealer installed Harness K2.195 FP#19244028, Lock Plate 2.195 FP #88965331, and Column Lock Motor PO+184726 FP# 25331 all done under a "good will repair" at no cost to myself ever though I did not buy the car through them. Now I can turn the wheel with the key out. I have had the Pull key and wait 10 seconds a couple times but it clears and runs ok.
The tech said he felt the motor was over heating and stuck, but it had sat outside for 2 nights.
Is this the latest, greatest fix, guaranteed to work or should I proceed to the after market Column Lock Bypass? I don't trust the fix or the car after reading the 64 pages of comments. I'm in the Twin Cities area and have spoken to a few Vette owners and they know very little. I can order the part from Thunder Racing but does anyone know someone in this area that can install it properly without butchering the interior, the car is spotless and I want to keep it that way? Any help would be appreciated as I'm a rookie Corvetter.
Thanks in advance.
The tech said he felt the motor was over heating and stuck, but it had sat outside for 2 nights.
Is this the latest, greatest fix, guaranteed to work or should I proceed to the after market Column Lock Bypass? I don't trust the fix or the car after reading the 64 pages of comments. I'm in the Twin Cities area and have spoken to a few Vette owners and they know very little. I can order the part from Thunder Racing but does anyone know someone in this area that can install it properly without butchering the interior, the car is spotless and I want to keep it that way? Any help would be appreciated as I'm a rookie Corvetter.
Thanks in advance.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Mount Juliet TN
Yes, so far it has eliminated all of the symptoms.
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
I have to say that the dealer certainly went out of their way and at some expense if they did all the things you say at THEIR expense.
As far as what they did, the K harness and lock plate are part of the last variation (04006C) of the GM recall service. (still not a permanent fix for the problem) Replacing the lock motor was a nice thing to do but there are no differences (other than age) between what they removed and what they put in. ie no improvements in the motor.
As far as still getting the "Pull Key..." message that is more likely a result of the battery than anything else. These cars are exceptionally sensative to low battery voltage. If you have read many of the posts in these 64 pages you will see my soap box rants about checking the battery with a digital voltmeter (DMM) directly across the battery posts with NO KEY in the ignition. The reading MUST be greater than 12.5 volts for the column lock electronics to function properly. The car will start with as little as 12.2 volts but since the column lock electronics wants greater than 12.5, you are guaranteed of the column lock symptoms with a low battery. Dash gage readings CANNOT tell you the state of health of the battery so don't bother with those readings. Car running and they report alternator output voltage. Too late when the car is running because the Column Lock Electronics run LONG before the motor starts. Key on and engine off and the reading means nothing because many electrical circuits are loading the battery at that time.
As far as installing a CLB it is very easy to do. Here is a link to the best install instructions I have seen:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=24
The only item NOT in those instructions is statement that you need to FIRST disconnect BOTH ends of the GM K Harness if it is installed. The first few pages details with pic's how to drop the drivers side knee bolster. Plugging in the CLB is a two second operation once the knee bolster is down and you find the correct female connector to plug it into. All this is in the instructions.
I suggest that you start by checking out the battery. Besides the voltage level make certain the battery cables are clean and tight.
Then get the CLB and install it. Anyone can do it. I have helped several female vette owners do this themselves.
As far as what they did, the K harness and lock plate are part of the last variation (04006C) of the GM recall service. (still not a permanent fix for the problem) Replacing the lock motor was a nice thing to do but there are no differences (other than age) between what they removed and what they put in. ie no improvements in the motor.
As far as still getting the "Pull Key..." message that is more likely a result of the battery than anything else. These cars are exceptionally sensative to low battery voltage. If you have read many of the posts in these 64 pages you will see my soap box rants about checking the battery with a digital voltmeter (DMM) directly across the battery posts with NO KEY in the ignition. The reading MUST be greater than 12.5 volts for the column lock electronics to function properly. The car will start with as little as 12.2 volts but since the column lock electronics wants greater than 12.5, you are guaranteed of the column lock symptoms with a low battery. Dash gage readings CANNOT tell you the state of health of the battery so don't bother with those readings. Car running and they report alternator output voltage. Too late when the car is running because the Column Lock Electronics run LONG before the motor starts. Key on and engine off and the reading means nothing because many electrical circuits are loading the battery at that time.
As far as installing a CLB it is very easy to do. Here is a link to the best install instructions I have seen:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=24
The only item NOT in those instructions is statement that you need to FIRST disconnect BOTH ends of the GM K Harness if it is installed. The first few pages details with pic's how to drop the drivers side knee bolster. Plugging in the CLB is a two second operation once the knee bolster is down and you find the correct female connector to plug it into. All this is in the instructions.
I suggest that you start by checking out the battery. Besides the voltage level make certain the battery cables are clean and tight.
Then get the CLB and install it. Anyone can do it. I have helped several female vette owners do this themselves.
The dealer was great, Lupient Chey in Bloomington MN in case anyone in interested.
The Pull Key was coming on right after I bought the car but I replaced the battery even before the Column Lock problem started.
I read through the install instructions and will order the CLB today I do not want to have this problem again.
One more question, is the GM K harness the one I will be disconnecting with the 4 wires to insert the new? You mentioned that it had to be disconnected at Both ends First, but is the other end accessible.
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Here is a link to a pic of the GM Harness:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...l-locking.html
Then scroll to post #8
As you can see there are two tails off the relay. The female end has only two wires, one white and one purple, and will be easy to recognise. The relay is usually tie wrapped to the side of the column. The male connector end is accessible and will be plugged into a female connector that is attached to the bottom side of the dash. In the instructions in the link I provided earlier it is shown to the left of the large "yellow" connector. Disconnect the male end of the K Harness and plug the CLB into the female connector you just removed the K Harness from. You can just leave the K harness hanging there or cut the tie wrap and remove it altogether. Clear the error messages in the DIC and any DTC's set in the BCM and you should be all set. Easiest guaranteed way to clear the error messages and DTC's is to disconnect the neg battery cable for at least 10 minutes. Instructions say remove fuse 25. I have found that the fuses needed to be removed are often more than just 25 so I do the battery thing.
Good luck. Feel free to PM me if you still have questions.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...l-locking.html
Then scroll to post #8
As you can see there are two tails off the relay. The female end has only two wires, one white and one purple, and will be easy to recognise. The relay is usually tie wrapped to the side of the column. The male connector end is accessible and will be plugged into a female connector that is attached to the bottom side of the dash. In the instructions in the link I provided earlier it is shown to the left of the large "yellow" connector. Disconnect the male end of the K Harness and plug the CLB into the female connector you just removed the K Harness from. You can just leave the K harness hanging there or cut the tie wrap and remove it altogether. Clear the error messages in the DIC and any DTC's set in the BCM and you should be all set. Easiest guaranteed way to clear the error messages and DTC's is to disconnect the neg battery cable for at least 10 minutes. Instructions say remove fuse 25. I have found that the fuses needed to be removed are often more than just 25 so I do the battery thing.
Good luck. Feel free to PM me if you still have questions.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,434
Likes: 2
From: Harrisburg Pa.
ok, let me see if i got this. with my '02 m6, the normal recall would have been a reprogram only. my car still has a 'whine' under the dash as if the lock actuator is locking and unlocking the the steering, but the steering wheel doesn't actually lock. is this the product of the reprogram or does this mean that the locking plate had to have been removed? if i got it all right, the clb doesn't let the current go to the actuator and simply sends it back to the bcm as an all clear report, so you won't hear the actuator or anything else happening under the dash.i know i have to get my clb installed one of these days while everything is working good, i just would like to know why it does what it does now before i change anything.
maybe i should just check the footwell for a splice, pull the panel and install the clb and not worry about it.
maybe i should just check the footwell for a splice, pull the panel and install the clb and not worry about it.
Last edited by dklowrider; Aug 10, 2010 at 10:45 PM.
