Hey all,

Im trying to figure out if I should switch my MAF or not. I'm just trying to see if I can pick up any power there or not. It seems like a lot of people complain about the Grantelli's. I have a '99 FRC with h/c/headers. Aren't the 1999 and older MAF's supposedly inferior to the newer ones? Should I try and Grantelli? Are the z06 MAF's worth any difference? I know there is no screen on the z06 MAF, but is there any other difference? From partsdirect the z06 MAF is only $115. Also, my car has been dyno tuned, would this need to be redone with a different MAF, or it would it auto correct? Thanks,

Don

 

You will get many opinions. Mine is to not waste your time with a Granatelli--mine is sitting in the attic. Fortunately I only paid 75 bucks. Supposedly even the older MAF's flow plenty for the setup you have. I have no intentions on changing mine (a '98). Have you replaced the intake and TB as well? That might be a good time to plug in a newer MAF--just not the Granatelli.

 

The 2001+ MAFs are somewhat different than the pre-2001s. The 2001+ MAFs are larger diameter, for a starter...I think about a quarter inch, or so, not exactly sure. Also, the 2001+ MAFs have the MAT sensor as an integral part of the MAF rather than a separate piece that plugs into the power duct (air bridge). The MAF wiring has to be changed if you convert. The LS6 Mafs do indeed have the screen removed, but the PCM has been adjusted for that difference. All that being said, I asked very similar questions here awhile ago, and was told by some knowledgeable people that the 1997-2000 MAF, with the screen, is good for up to 550 horsepower. That works for me as I've got a little ways to go to reach that point. BTW, I tried the Granatelli awhile back. Ended up going back to my original MAF and haven't looked back since. Also, there a lot of threads about screen removal. Most saw no improvement, or seem to regret doing it, as it can foul up the air measurement signal the MAF is reading and sending to the computer.
Ed

 

changing the MAF isn't going to do anything for you except use up your money. The MAF is only one part of a SERIES of things that control the air flow to your engine.There's nothing to be gained by inlarging one section of a hose in an attempt to flow more water; the smallest diameter section will control water volumn and velocity.Same with air flow.

The time to think about changing your MAF is when you're REALLY ready to spend your money ie, air intake, MAF, TB, intake manafold all together will open a path to bring more air to your engine. Then new high flowing heads to handel the air flow, new cam to adjust the flow through the engine, headers to start it on it's way out, hifo cats and catbacks.

See that's how this stuff makes you crazy - all you wanted to do was put in a stinken MAF and next thing you know your going for 10 grand !

For now forget the Granitelli and when you're ready to go for your brains use a 2002 or later Z06 or a C6 MAF.

 

Save your money. I am running factory MAF with screen and TB. Granted it is on a FI motor not a NA motor. In the OLD days we changed carb's to flow more air because we got more power; usually this was done on modded motors that needed more fuel and air. Another point was that carb's were rated flowing both fuel AND air where our LS-? motors do not have fuel displacing air molecules from the flow rating. This is all part of "ancestor worship thinking" from the past. Heck, a good LS-1 edit only will give you more than the big TB or MAF. Lastly, I have seen many cars actually loose pwr on the dyno with these mods. Larger displacement NA motors can benefit as noted by the new LS-2 motors, however, the PCM is married to the correct TB and MAF.

 

According to your sig, you have the Fast intake, did you upgrade your throttle body?? And what are your dyno numbers with the AFR Heads??

 

Aight Al,

Well.... I havent really posted this because I didnt want to start any arguments... Im pretty low on peak for an AFR car. Heres the deal:

I bought a used cam off the forum. A 228/232 113 LSA. Cant remember the lift off hand but can find it if anyone really ones to know. It was a custom grind with a little less lift. It however was NOT one of the XER grinds. Bought it relatively soon after joining the forum, and still really didnt know a lot about the ls1. Just knew I wanted some extra kick. Started going through what all was intalled with the cam swap (and prices). To get the heads worked to help flow a little with the cam an adding some springs/retainers/etc... I just decided to go with some AFR heads (box stock). I got the stock replacement LSX intake (not the 90mm). I was gonna buy an ls6, but there weren't any used ones around at the time... So instead of buying a new ls6 intake, I got a good price on the LSX (700). I also have coated LG longtubes, random tech cats (got the combo slightly used, it was used to test on Andy's C6), and z06 ti catback. MSD wires with NGK plugs. Soo.... The car goes on the dyno to get tuned. Everything gets done, and the peak numbers are low. Charlie and Andy were both there... Pulled up various other dyno numbers, and overlaid with mine. "Under the curve" car was close to spot on with several other n/a 450rwhp (aprox) peak cars but when it started getting toward the top end, it just laid down. So the numbers ended up around 395 rwhp, 393 rwtq. Cam profile almost definately is to blame. Talked to Andy, he's taking care of me. Now, I brought the cam in, etc.. and went with it. He didnt recommend it, but did the work. So it wasn't his fault. I wont talk about price ext for second cam swap, but we'll just say his customer service rep is WELL deserved. Whenever he gets some down time, a new cam's going in. Still not positive on what cams going in (and when) due to Andy's schedule/my schedule and me making up my mind if Im staying n/a or a cam that will support a blower. So in the meantime, dam near the only things left stock that I can play with, are the MAF and throttle body. I already planned on a ported and polished throttle body... Was just checking to see if the MAF would be worthwhile. Anyway, thats whats up.

Don

 

O.K. I guess you need to start with the cam, retune and dyno! With the new clutch, 395 rwhp/393 rwtq should get you well into the 11's.

 

I had installed a grannatelli maf and it threw a light. So anyway I saw the owner posting on a thread in here that he would retune anyones maf that was having problems. I sent mine in with a list of my mods and he retuned it and I may have picked up a little in the qtr mile, I can not say for sure because I went with some new tires at the same time. If I had to go out on a limb I would say it does not help to change the MAF, at least with the HP I am running which is just a little above stock. I tend to agree with the post that changing one thing on the air intake system wont help much. I think the stock MAF probably will outflow the stock throttle body, stock airbox, and stock airbridge.

 

Yea, it moves pretty well despite the lower the usual peak. Im going to a track in the midwest in about 10 days, and expect it should see 11's fairly easily now. But before too much longer the cam will be swapped out... Was just thinking about any stuff I could do in the meantime.

 

Leave the MAF sensor alone. Spend your money on something else.