When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
1. How hard is it to install?
2. How long does it take to install?
3. Can you do it with everything else on the car?
4. Any nonstandard tools required to get the job done?
5. Would you recommend it for your average DIY person in the garage on jack stands and rhino ramps?
The chassis subframe does not require removel for the manual transmission differential strut, but it does require removel for the automatic model. NONE of the driveline needs to be removed to install either model and our installation instructions are very intuitive for either version as well.
1. How hard is it to install?
2. How long does it take to install?
3. Can you do it with everything else on the car?
4. Any nonstandard tools required to get the job done?
5. Would you recommend it for your average DIY person in the garage on jack stands and rhino ramps?
I have had one sitting in my garage for a couple months, looks like a mother to install. I think I'm going to take up to a friends house next weekend and install it (has a lift). I want to hit the track March 5th and don't want to chance breaking something.
Oversimplified..
Wheel hop in the Corvette is not a function of the driveline itself, but rather from a negative reaction in the chassis suspension. This product was never meant to address or correct any type of wheel hop, since it's use has NOTHING to do directly with the suspension itself. If you need to correct a negative wheel hop issue, than you'll need to adjust/correct/upgrade to better tires, tire air pressure, better shocks, poly suspension bushings and a DYNAMIC 4-wheel alignment suited for the intended application. We've already covered this sort of thing a few times before on this board.
For a master like you its will be a piece of cake.
2hrs tops!
I pull the exhaust out of the way and have a tube of crazy glue handy. Nothing else has to come out on an M6.The trickiest part is not having enough hands as you have to space out the bracket from the tranny to clear the fillet radius on the case. They supply washers 3 per bolt to space it out. I cheat and glue and stack the washers to the brackets and let it dry. Then, you can simply pull the original bolts out place the new bracket againt the trans and start the bolt. Other than that.its easy..
Do you have to drain the diff fluid?
Do you really have to remove the exhaust?
I already had my exhasut removed but just don't wanna install at this time because of budget issue due to upgrade to new heads. But if removing exhaust helps alots then I may have to do it at this time as well.
Thanks,
-Mike
Awesome! Thanks for the info RoadRebel (and Dynotech). This installation sounds dead trivial. I wonder why more people don't slap this brace on? Seems like cheap insurance to me.
I guess I'll have the car back up on ramps here shortly (of course, I have to get it back to my garage first....)