Hellllpppp! First brake job!!!!
Thread Starter
Lepus-temperamentalus
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,827
Likes: 5
From: Roswell Ga
Hellllpppp! First brake job!!!!
There has got to be a trick to this!
All I'm trying to do is replace the front pads.
I took them out just like the GM site says and I reinstalled them just like it said. Just one problem, the two new pads are too close together to fit around the rotor. Yes, I've got them flush against the caliper, the caliper pistons are not extended.
Really need some help here guys!
All I'm trying to do is replace the front pads.
I took them out just like the GM site says and I reinstalled them just like it said. Just one problem, the two new pads are too close together to fit around the rotor. Yes, I've got them flush against the caliper, the caliper pistons are not extended.
Really need some help here guys!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 959
Likes: 12
From: California CA
The floating caliper slides along two pins. If the piston is fully retracted, you will need to pull the floating caliper further out to get the clearance.
edit: this is describing the rears...hope the front is the same
edit: this is describing the rears...hope the front is the same
Thread Starter
Lepus-temperamentalus
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,827
Likes: 5
From: Roswell Ga
Originally Posted by sprinter
The floating caliper slides along two pins. If the piston is fully retracted, you will need to pull the floating caliper further out to get the clearance.
edit: this is describing the rears...hope the front is the same
edit: this is describing the rears...hope the front is the same
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,251
Likes: 4
When you say the pistons are not extended, do you mean that you have completely compressed them back flush? If not, then use one of the old pads and place it in position on the piston side of the caliper. With a C clamp slowly squeeze it into the caliper evenly from the center. You can do this one caliper at a time or the other calipers will eject their pistons. They must be flush or there will be no room to slide the pads in place.
If you've done this, then you need to make sure the glide pins are greased and float the caliper in and out until she fits together.
If you've done this, then you need to make sure the glide pins are greased and float the caliper in and out until she fits together.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,332
Likes: 7
From: Dayton, Ohio
Senior Member
CI 5-6-7-8 Veteran
And you are sure that you compressed the piston completely using a big "C clamp" or something similar?
It doesnt take much to make them not fit right when reinstalling them.
It doesnt take much to make them not fit right when reinstalling them.
Thread Starter
Lepus-temperamentalus
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,827
Likes: 5
From: Roswell Ga
Originally Posted by 2k1 Vette
And you are sure that you compressed the piston completely using a big "C clamp" or something similar?
It doesnt take much to make them not fit right when reinstalling them.
It doesnt take much to make them not fit right when reinstalling them.
I used a C clamp to compress them when I took the old pads off and it LOOKS as though they're flush now, but that's the only thing I can think of. The problem is that even if they aren't I've got a LONG way to go and there's only about an 1/8th inch of piston showing. It doesn't look to me that the pads would fit if the piston was BELOW flush.
Sounds as though I'm looking at the right things, I'm just wondering if my pads are too thick. Got em from Fred Beans.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 28,753
Likes: 9
From: San Jose/Bear Valley CA
CA Events Coordinator
When I replace pads I disconnect the brake like from the back of the caliper and let the old fluid bleed off. Then I compress the caliper pistons so the inside of the caliper is wide open to accept the new pads. Once the pads are installed, you can hook up the brake line again and all you have to do then is bleed the system out with fresh brake fluid.
VR
VR
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,332
Likes: 7
From: Dayton, Ohio
Senior Member
CI 5-6-7-8 Veteran
Its been a while since I did my brake so I cant recall if there should be any exposed piston or if it should sit flush.
I really doubt that there would be a problem with the pads. I would give it another shot with the C Clamp and see if you can gain a little more clearance. Other than that, I dont really know what to suggest.
I really doubt that there would be a problem with the pads. I would give it another shot with the C Clamp and see if you can gain a little more clearance. Other than that, I dont really know what to suggest.
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Thread Starter
Lepus-temperamentalus
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,827
Likes: 5
From: Roswell Ga
Thanks for the help. Going out to try the C clamp. (REALLY don't want to tackle bleeding the system by myself on the first go-round).
Stay tuned guys, I may be back for round 2!
Stay tuned guys, I may be back for round 2!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,251
Likes: 4
Originally Posted by JACKAL0PE
Thanks for the help. Going out to try the C clamp. (REALLY don't want to tackle bleeding the system by myself on the first go-round).
Stay tuned guys, I may be back for round 2!
Stay tuned guys, I may be back for round 2!
2 words.... "SPEED BLEEDERS"
they are $30 for 4 valves and they work like a charm. You really do need to bleed them immediately because you are pushing the old cruddy fluid back into the lines and by driving with it that way you'll mixed that stuff all the way back to the ABS and master.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 28,753
Likes: 9
From: San Jose/Bear Valley CA
CA Events Coordinator
Originally Posted by JACKAL0PE
Thanks for the help. Going out to try the C clamp. (REALLY don't want to tackle bleeding the system by myself on the first go-round).
Stay tuned guys, I may be back for round 2!
Stay tuned guys, I may be back for round 2!
VR
Racer
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 339
Likes: 2
From: West Hartford, CT, USA
Originally Posted by JACKAL0PE
There has got to be a trick to this!
All I'm trying to do is replace the front pads.
I took them out just like the GM site says and I reinstalled them just like it said. Just one problem, the two new pads are too close together to fit around the rotor. Yes, I've got them flush against the caliper, the caliper pistons are not extended.
Really need some help here guys!
All I'm trying to do is replace the front pads.
I took them out just like the GM site says and I reinstalled them just like it said. Just one problem, the two new pads are too close together to fit around the rotor. Yes, I've got them flush against the caliper, the caliper pistons are not extended.
Really need some help here guys!
Then when you use a 'C' clamp make sure to get equal pressure on both pistons. If you pry back only one, the other will pop back out a little. When you're done, the pistons should be completely flush in the caliper.
Assuming you only removed the upper caliper pin, you should be able to wiggle the caliper back and forth a little when you rotate it back up into position and it should squeeze back over the rotor. Also make sure the pads are fully seated in the caliper before you do this or there won't be enough room.
Keep working. They'll go. And don't forget to put the cap back on the reservoir.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 575
Likes: 0
From: Richmond Hill Ontario
A C clamp should do the job. You could crack open the bleeder screw a bit first. This will allow the fluid to escape and it's easier to compress the caliper piston. Compressing the caliper piston without doing this causes the old brake fluid to be forced back up into the ABS unit and it really is a good idea to flush the fluid anyway. The lowest point in the brake system is the calipers and that's where the fluid is the dirtiest and has been exposed to the greatest heat. You'd be surprised how the brake fluid deteriorates and it's boiling point drops as it gets older. You can gravity bleed the brakes after you get the calipers back on to make sure that all the air is out but if you buy a Mityvac unit it's a lot easier for one person to do. You didn't mention if you installed new rotors or only the pads. This situation can sometimes happen when you install new rotors and pads due to a stack up of the tolerances. Hope this helps you.
Thread Starter
Lepus-temperamentalus
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,827
Likes: 5
From: Roswell Ga
Okay, update for all you guys. First of all, thanks for all the help. It was a case of dumb-*** mechanic.
Following the manual to take OFF the fronts, I'd already bought and used a turkey baster to drain about 2/3 of the brake fluid out. BUT after I did that and got the old ones out, I replaced the cover on the master cylinder to make sure moisture and crud didn't get in there (remember that part, there will be a test at the end).
So when I tried to comress the pistons to put the new ones on, the fluid really didn't have much of a place to go. With the cap on, it was still under pressure. Consequently the pistons wouldn't go back easily. Taking the cap off and using the c-clamp fixed the problem. They're on now.
Stay tuned tomorrow when we do rear brakes!
Following the manual to take OFF the fronts, I'd already bought and used a turkey baster to drain about 2/3 of the brake fluid out. BUT after I did that and got the old ones out, I replaced the cover on the master cylinder to make sure moisture and crud didn't get in there (remember that part, there will be a test at the end).
So when I tried to comress the pistons to put the new ones on, the fluid really didn't have much of a place to go. With the cap on, it was still under pressure. Consequently the pistons wouldn't go back easily. Taking the cap off and using the c-clamp fixed the problem. They're on now.
Stay tuned tomorrow when we do rear brakes!
Thread Starter
Lepus-temperamentalus
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,827
Likes: 5
From: Roswell Ga
Originally Posted by IM QUIKR
2 words.... "SPEED BLEEDERS"
they are $30 for 4 valves and they work like a charm. You really do need to bleed them immediately because you are pushing the old cruddy fluid back into the lines and by driving with it that way you'll mixed that stuff all the way back to the ABS and master.
they are $30 for 4 valves and they work like a charm. You really do need to bleed them immediately because you are pushing the old cruddy fluid back into the lines and by driving with it that way you'll mixed that stuff all the way back to the ABS and master.
I've heard about the pump but never a "speed bleeder". Thirty bucks sounds like a bargin!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,251
Likes: 4
Originally Posted by JACKAL0PE
Where do you get 'em?
I've heard about the pump but never a "speed bleeder". Thirty bucks sounds like a bargin!
I've heard about the pump but never a "speed bleeder". Thirty bucks sounds like a bargin!
84-98 Corvette front 639560 / rear 639560
Last edited by IM QUIKR; Feb 22, 2005 at 08:44 PM.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: Summit Station Ohio
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-‘16-‘17
Originally Posted by JACKAL0PE
Okay, update for all you guys. First of all, thanks for all the help. It was a case of dumb-*** mechanic.
Following the manual to take OFF the fronts, I'd already bought and used a turkey baster to drain about 2/3 of the brake fluid out. BUT after I did that and got the old ones out, I replaced the cover on the master cylinder to make sure moisture and crud didn't get in there (remember that part, there will be a test at the end).
So when I tried to comress the pistons to put the new ones on, the fluid really didn't have much of a place to go. With the cap on, it was still under pressure. Consequently the pistons wouldn't go back easily. Taking the cap off and using the c-clamp fixed the problem. They're on now.
Stay tuned tomorrow when we do rear brakes!
Following the manual to take OFF the fronts, I'd already bought and used a turkey baster to drain about 2/3 of the brake fluid out. BUT after I did that and got the old ones out, I replaced the cover on the master cylinder to make sure moisture and crud didn't get in there (remember that part, there will be a test at the end).
So when I tried to comress the pistons to put the new ones on, the fluid really didn't have much of a place to go. With the cap on, it was still under pressure. Consequently the pistons wouldn't go back easily. Taking the cap off and using the c-clamp fixed the problem. They're on now.
Stay tuned tomorrow when we do rear brakes!
Take your time and have fun!
Thread Starter
Lepus-temperamentalus
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,827
Likes: 5
From: Roswell Ga
Thanks guys. I'll probably be crying over here again tomorrow (or Thursday, the ball and chain has plans for me tomorrow), but it's great to know you guys are here to help.
Thanks again!
Jack
Thanks again!
Jack