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I've had one sitting on the shelf since they came out. My buddies have them installed and they work great. Problem is you have to pull the torque tube out to get it on. Since they were swapping clutches and diffs, it made sense to put one in then. I'm waiting until I need a new clutch.
Never heard of anyone installing these without pulling the torque tube.
How does it work? Does the bleed line just hang down around the side of the torque tube so you can reach it by just jacking up the car?
The web site is confusing because it says all you do is pop the hood and extract the old fluid. That is NOT how you bleed a system as I understand it. They make it sound like the bleeder goes into the engine bay or something. You just unscrew the bleeder screw and screw in the extension right? Then the bleed screw screws into the extender, right?
Does the bleeder just hang free or is it mounted somehow?
Can you guys explain it for this idiot.
I'm going to have my tranny rebuilt so it would be a good time to have this installed.
Completed my RAM 980 install last week and I also installed the LAPD remote bleeder.
Bleeding clutch took less than 10 seconds.
Hopefully will never have to bleed it again, but if it ever needs it I WONT have to get under car, remove H-pipe, remove torque tube cover, and swim in brake fluid under the car.
How does it work? Does the bleed line just hang down around the side of the torque tube so you can reach it by just jacking up the car?
The web site is confusing because it says all you do is pop the hood and extract the old fluid. That is NOT how you bleed a system as I understand it. They make it sound like the bleeder goes into the engine bay or something. You just unscrew the bleeder screw and screw in the extension right? Then the bleed screw screws into the extender, right?
Does the bleeder just hang free or is it mounted somehow?
Can you guys explain it for this idiot.
I'm going to have my tranny rebuilt so it would be a good time to have this installed.
Some people can run the up the firewall near the reservoir. Unless you're me, and you apparently get one that's about 2' too short from LAPD. Mine is zip-tied to the O2 sensor wires. That's as far as it would go. No biggie, just have to jack up the side of the car to bleed the clutch. Still way easier. Worth $85, no, but *shrug* I didn't feel like making my own.
Installed mine with the new LUK Stage II... haven't bled it yet, but it was a good thing to do b/c I run HPDE's with the car and now I can bleed the hydraulics easily.
I still do not understand why people spend there money on this when you should only have to bleed your clutch 1 time after A clutch swap? I mean after you install the new clutch just bleed it while the car is still jacked up and be done with it.
I still do not understand why people spend there money on this when you should only have to bleed your clutch 1 time after A clutch swap? I mean after you install the new clutch just bleed it while the car is still jacked up and be done with it.
Maybe the clutch fluid gets hot and black from track use. It will also get like this after 3-4 years on a hard driven street car.
I had a new clutch installed about 20k miles/15 months ago. The new clutch had fresh fluid of course. I never did bleed it as I had headers installed and the bleeder lines where not out at the time. Once a month I would remove all the fluid from the clutch reservoir and fill with new fluid.
Had to drop the torque tube to change some bearings, so installed a bleeder line today. The fluid that came out when we bleed the clutch today was black. It was all the fluid that was down in the slave.
The one I installed is 4 ft long. I would not install one that was less then 3.5'.