Code P1416 will not go away
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Germantown TN
Code P1416 will not go away
About a month ago my check engine light came on. I scanned and received code P1416. I reset code and replaced O2 sensors and air pump check valve sensor. After about 3 days of replacing sensor, code pops back up. Any advice on what else it could be?
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,550
Likes: 2
From: Woodbridge VA
Originally Posted by T.J.
Remember there are two check valves, one on the driver side and another behind the intake manifold.
I am doing that soon also. I have the part, just waiting for a nice weekend.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,225
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From: Currently living in and loving... Chico, CA
Originally Posted by Crispyc21
I may be wrong (don't have the codes in front of me) but I think the 1416 is the check valve behind the intake manifold. Did you replace that one?
I am doing that soon also. I have the part, just waiting for a nice weekend.
I am doing that soon also. I have the part, just waiting for a nice weekend.
I recently replaced the right bank check valve on my '99 'Hoe for a P1416 code. It took half a dozen more trips before the 'Hoe quit throwing the code; don't ask me why, 'cause I can't explain it, but everything's been fine since then.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The check valve behind the manifold can easily be relplaced with out removing the manifold. You need to disconnect the AIR manifold flange on the right bank manifold:
Then disconnect the metal pipe from the rubber connector on the left side. The pipe will be able to be snaked out from behind the manifold enough that you will be able to access the check valve.
If you disconnect the brake vacuum booster vacuum line it will give you some working room.
Bill
Then disconnect the metal pipe from the rubber connector on the left side. The pipe will be able to be snaked out from behind the manifold enough that you will be able to access the check valve.
If you disconnect the brake vacuum booster vacuum line it will give you some working room.
Bill
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Germantown TN
Originally Posted by Wolfmanjohn
Correctomundo! 1416 is the right bank, which would be the valve behind the intake manifold. 1415 is the left, or driver side, bank.
I recently replaced the right bank check valve on my '99 'Hoe for a P1416 code. It took half a dozen more trips before the 'Hoe quit throwing the code; don't ask me why, 'cause I can't explain it, but everything's been fine since then.
I recently replaced the right bank check valve on my '99 'Hoe for a P1416 code. It took half a dozen more trips before the 'Hoe quit throwing the code; don't ask me why, 'cause I can't explain it, but everything's been fine since then.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,550
Likes: 2
From: Woodbridge VA
Originally Posted by BlackBlur
I replaced the one behind the behind the intake manifold. Hopefully it will go away soon like yours did. It is sporadic lately. It ranges from 1 day to over a week before the code will pop back up after a reset. I will give it a few more days and see if it will stay off. Thanks for the information.
How did was it replacing the check valve behind the intake (Hard, easy)? Did you follow Bill's directions? I'm about to do this and want to know what I'm getting myself into. Everything looks easy until you start hitting your hands on everything and don't have enough room.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 954
Likes: 21
From: White Oak, GA
Originally Posted by Crispyc21
How did was it replacing the check valve behind the intake (Hard, easy)? Did you follow Bill's directions? I'm about to do this and want to know what I'm getting myself into. Everything looks easy until you start hitting your hands on everything and don't have enough room.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,550
Likes: 2
From: Woodbridge VA
Originally Posted by C5inWV
Well, how did this repair turn out? I need to replace the same check valve. I swear the sum beach is attached back there. It didn't want to slide out after I disconnected the ends of the hoses at the manifolds. I put it back together until I can figure out how to get it out. Removing the brake vacuum line wasn't enough. Is there a bracket holding onto the valve? Any more advice? Thanks.
Yes, there is a bracket holding it. I ran into the same problem. I disconnected the lines according to Bill's instructions. Tried to pull on it and it didn't go anywhere. I looked in my service manuals and saw it was attached. I saw a post with pictures of the bracket. Some have said they were able to get to the bracket but they much have hands the size of small children.
I haven't fixed this yet.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
While I was at the C5/C6 birthday bash, I visited the museaum and took as many pictures as I could. I forgot that I took this one. Here is a picture of the AIR Valve bracket behind the manifold. It is attached to the rear side of the drivers side head just above the large wiring harness.
Hope this helps.
Bill
Hope this helps.
Bill
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 50
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From: VIRGINIA BEACH VA
I just changed mine last night while changing my oil sending unit. Even though I had the intake manifold off, it was not a easy job. The problem we see at the dealership, is the valve will rust closed. The reason for this is the build up of moisture in that valve over time. Very seldom do we ever see a problem with the valve that is mounted on the left hand side of the engine.
When I took the valve off. I had a one inch box wrench for the valve and a 7/8 box wrench for the pipe. Since that valve has probally gone bad due to rust you will want to hold the pipe steady with the 7/8 so you do not break that metal pipe. We have also used wd-40 and had to put heat on some them since they tend to "freeze" on there.
Another thing you want to becareful of while you are "wrenching" on that valve is you do not head the ground strap behind the cyclinder head. Last thing you want.
If you have any questions I will be happy to reply. I am not a expert but maybe since I just finished doing it I can answer them for you.
When I took the valve off. I had a one inch box wrench for the valve and a 7/8 box wrench for the pipe. Since that valve has probally gone bad due to rust you will want to hold the pipe steady with the 7/8 so you do not break that metal pipe. We have also used wd-40 and had to put heat on some them since they tend to "freeze" on there.
Another thing you want to becareful of while you are "wrenching" on that valve is you do not head the ground strap behind the cyclinder head. Last thing you want.
If you have any questions I will be happy to reply. I am not a expert but maybe since I just finished doing it I can answer them for you.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 954
Likes: 21
From: White Oak, GA
Thanks guys. Every little bit of info is helpful.
I let you know how it turns out. I haven't found a replacement check valve yet. No one has it locally. I will likely order it online; have a call in to Fred Beans.
I let you know how it turns out. I haven't found a replacement check valve yet. No one has it locally. I will likely order it online; have a call in to Fred Beans.
