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Hi guys,wondering if anyone has seen this before. Car runs perfectly,but I have noticed recently(I don't drive her that often and usually not at night) that my lights are flickering intermediately.
It is not in conjunction with a/c or blinkers/heating or anything I can tell. I was watching yesterday and noticed it was all my lights,the whole electrical system. I was watching the dic and saw the amps fluctuated also.
I guess the question is, will it throw a code I can somehow retrieve to solve this issue? Is it likely the alternator?
I recently replaced the battery,it began to leak a bit, so changed to gel-type. I did not notice this before that time,and have read posts about leakage causing probs with computer...think thats it?
I would like to start analyzing this in the most logical spot,whether thats the dic or computer or alternator...I'm not sure!
Just want to ask the guys here that really know their s--t!!
thanx in advance
This is what I have read from others with this problem. I was told that at night time, the air pump system activates and causes the up and down jump with your electrical system. I know that this happens to mine at night with the lights on. When I hit the brake or turn signal, I get the problem you speak off. Some one like Bill Curlee will really know.
This is what I have read from others with this problem. I was told that at night time, the air pump system activates and causes the up and down jump with your electrical system. I know that this happens to mine at night with the lights on. When I hit the brake or turn signal, I get the problem you speak off. Some one like Bill Curlee will really know.
Uhhhhhh - no. The A.I.R. pump runs on cold start for a maximum of 5 minutes or until the cats are up to operating temperature. It has nothing to do with night or day. If you are seeing the lights flicker, then this is an indication that your battery cannot handle the load of the power accessories that are running. Load test the battery - it is likely on the way out the door.
Mine did this and it was a loose battery cable, tighthened it and no more problems. A word of caution, DO NOT OVERTORQUE IT, it can cause side post battery to leak and ruin your car's computers and wiring harness (unless you have a glass mat battery).
O.k. thanx for all the replies, My battery has no issues as it is brand new gel-type,I just replaced it.I am Positive it is in the connection at + terminal now.I did tighten terminal( trying to not overtighten it) feels tight..however, I can still grab the cable itself and rotate it with no problem as if it were on a bearing or so,and when I do,underhood light goes on and off.This cannot be right!!If I tighten more,sure to strip!
I hate to sound like an idiot(maybe too late), but what gives here? I mean this is just a simple single bolt! Any Ideas,....I can only think ..maybe a new cable...
p.s. Just another thought...is it possible this bolt is too long for some strange reason for the newer gel battery, that is what it acts like now..
Last edited by flynbya2; Mar 20, 2005 at 05:27 PM.
On my 98 I had the same prob....and after awhile I got a Charge system fault on the DIC and a low voltage reading on the gage that I verified with a volt meter.....traced the prob to the line that gos from the alt to the starter...took the wires off the starter and cleaned them up, also cleaned the starter connection where the wires go to....have not had any problems with the lights since I did this.
O.k. ty
thats another place to look now, but, i am still hung up on this rotating positive cable thing!
I would hope someone could advise me if they can manually rotate their cable when tight(doh!!)
You see, changing this battery is my first dealing with the cable on the car, so, unfortunately I have no recollection as to if this is NORMAL or not for a vette cable( i know it sounds weird)cause I didnt check or notice it before hand
No, you should not be able to rotate by hand, that's how my cable was before I tightened it. They do make longer bolts, some cars have two cables on positive. Not sure how that would get switched (battery installer ?) on your car though. 11 ft-lbs is the proper torque. On my glass mat battery (Exide) the terminals are air fit (not a blind hole).
Iwas the installer and didnt change any connections, just put them back where they were.
this is the blind hole type, so I can only assume the holes are just slightly shallower than the original battery,that is really weird.....
well, maybe I can use a washer , or better yet cut or replace bolt with a bit shorter one...this is really some kind of a fluke! not serious, but kinda annoying!