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Steering rack bleed procedure?

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Old Mar 27, 2005 | 08:58 AM
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Default Steering rack bleed procedure?

Is there a specific procedure to follow to get all the air out of the steering rack? Ever since I removed the rack (for a head/cam install), there is some play in the steering on center. I've already checked all the bolts, they're tight, so it looks like there's some air in the system somewhere. I put about 100 miles on it now with no change. I've also tried jacking the car up and turning the steering lock to lock (probably 50 times), but it didn't help. The PS reservoir is full.

Anybody seen this before?
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Old Mar 27, 2005 | 10:14 AM
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I thought that the procedure was to turn the steering wheel from lock to lock several times, that's what I had to do when I replaced the rack on my '85 corvette.
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Old Mar 27, 2005 | 10:41 AM
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Try this: Jack up the front of the car and turn the wheel lock to lock. I did that yesterday when I had the front end jacked up and I sware I herd some air purge out.
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Old Mar 27, 2005 | 10:44 AM
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Thanks guys, but like I said in the original post, I've already jacked the car up and went lock to lock at least 50 times. Unfortunately, it didn't fix the problem.
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Old Mar 27, 2005 | 10:53 AM
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Bleeding the Power Steering System

Tools Required
J 35555 Metal Mityvac
J 43485 Power Steering Bleeder Adapter

Important
Hoses touching the frame, body, or engine may cause system noise.


Verify that the hoses do not touch any other part of the vehicle.

Important
Loose connections may not leak, but could allow air into the steering system.


Verify that all hose connections are tight.




Notice
If the power steering system has been serviced, an accurate fluid level reading cannot be obtained unless air is bled from the steering system. The air in the fluid may cause pump cavitation noise and may cause pump damage over a period of time.



Important
Maintain the fluid level throughout the bleed procedure.


Remove the pump reservoir cap.

Important
Use clean, new power steering fluid only.


Fill the pump reservoir with fluid to the FULL COLD level.



Attach the J 43485 to the J 35555 or equivalent.
Place the J 43485 on or in the pump reservoir filler neck.
Apply a vacuum of 68 kPa (20 in Hg) maximum.
Wait 5 minutes. Typical vacuum drop is 7-10 kPa (2-3 in Hg). If the vacuum does not remain steady, refer to Excessive Vacuum Drop Diagnosis at the end of this procedure.
Remove the J 43485 and the J 35555 .
Reinstall the pump reservoir cap.
Start the engine. Allow the engine to idle.
Turn off the engine.
Verify the fluid level. Repeat steps 11-13 until the fluid stabilizes.

Important
Do not turn steering wheel to lock.


Start the engine. Allow the engine to idle.
Turn the steering wheel 180-360 degrees in both directions 5 times.
Switch the ignition off.

Notice
When adding fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use the proper power steering fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid will cause hose and seal damage and fluid leaks.


Verify the fluid level.



Remove the pump reservoir cap.



Attach the J 43485 to the J 35555 or equivalent.
Place the J 43485 on or in the pump reservoir filler neck.
Apply a vacuum of 68 kPa (20 in Hg) maximum.
Wait 5 minutes.
Remove the J 43485 and the J 35555 .
Verify the fluid level.



Reinstall the pump reservoir cap.
Excessive Vacuum Drop Diagnosis




If the vacuum continues to drop, remove the pressure and return hose from the pump.
Install the plugs (1,2) supplied with the J 43485 into the pressure and return port.



Attach the J 43485 to the J 35555 or equivalent.
Place the J 43485 on or in the pump reservoir filler neck.
Apply a vacuum of 68 kPa (20 in Hg) maximum.
If the vacuum drops again, repair or replace the pump. If the vacuum holds steady, continue to check the other parts of the steering system.

Important
Fluid must be free from bubbles and foam. Be aware of periodic bubbles that indicate a loose connection or leaking O-ring seal in the return hose or the pressure hose.

Fluid must be free from discoloration.


Observe the fluid.
If condition persists, replace the following parts:
The return hose clamps
The return hose O-rings
The pressure hose O-rings
The gear cylinder line O-rings
The reservoir to pump O-ring
Repeat the bleed procedure from the beginning.
Drive the vehicle approximately 16 km (10 mi) in order to warm the system to operating temperature. Evaluate vehicle on a smooth flat surface.
Verify the following conditions:
There is smooth power assist.
The vehicle operates quietly.
The pump maintains the proper fluid level.
There is not any leaking in the steering system.
The fluid is free of foam or discoloration.
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Old Mar 27, 2005 | 01:30 PM
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Great info, thanks Patches.

Now I just have to locate tool "J 43485".
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Old Mar 27, 2005 | 02:37 PM
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I don't think the state of the fluid should affect free play. The fluid is part of the power assist. Have you checked the bolts on the tie-rod ends and the universal joint on the input shaft.
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 06:01 PM
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white90conv's post got me thinking, since his assessment makes perfect sense, but I had already checked the torque on all the bolts he mentioned and they were good. I removed the alternator to get a better view of the coupling between the rack and the steering u-joint, and found that is was a little loose, even though the bolt was torqued to spec. It turned out that the old threadlock on the bolt was creating enough drag that the torque wrench would click before the joint was completely clamped tight. I cleaned the bolt, applied some fresh red loctite, and torqued it again. It's back to normal now, no play. Thanks all!
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Flareside
white90conv's post got me thinking, since his assessment makes perfect sense, but I had already checked the torque on all the bolts he mentioned and they were good. I removed the alternator to get a better view of the coupling between the rack and the steering u-joint, and found that is was a little loose, even though the bolt was torqued to spec. It turned out that the old threadlock on the bolt was creating enough drag that the torque wrench would click before the joint was completely clamped tight. I cleaned the bolt, applied some fresh red loctite, and torqued it again. It's back to normal now, no play. Thanks all!
Glad you found it, as soon as I read your post I knew it was this bolt because I did the same thing the first time I took my rack out.
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