CV Boot Replacement...
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 925
Likes: 0
From: Johnston, Iowa
CV Boot Replacement...
Anyone here replaced an inner cv boot on one of the back axles? If so, are there any howto's here? I have done a "search" and not really found any DIY stuff.
I've done a clutch replacement and recently a transmission swap in my 88k mile 99 M6.
Replacing the shocks now and see a dark cruddy grey/brown heavy weight oil around where the rear pass side cv boot is...
I had just replaced rear end and transmission fluids (rp gear max/gm synro mesh) and the stuff flung around that axle doesnt look as purdy as the newer fluids I just put in a week ago.
I've done a clutch replacement and recently a transmission swap in my 88k mile 99 M6.
Replacing the shocks now and see a dark cruddy grey/brown heavy weight oil around where the rear pass side cv boot is...
I had just replaced rear end and transmission fluids (rp gear max/gm synro mesh) and the stuff flung around that axle doesnt look as purdy as the newer fluids I just put in a week ago.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 4,148
Likes: 5
From: Roxbury NJ
Originally Posted by xlr8shn
Anyone here replaced an inner cv boot on one of the back axles? If so, are there any howto's here? I have done a "search" and not really found any DIY stuff.
I've done a clutch replacement and recently a transmission swap in my 88k mile 99 M6.
Replacing the shocks now and see a dark cruddy grey/brown heavy weight oil around where the rear pass side cv boot is...
I had just replaced rear end and transmission fluids (rp gear max/gm synro mesh) and the stuff flung around that axle doesnt look as purdy as the newer fluids I just put in a week ago.
I've done a clutch replacement and recently a transmission swap in my 88k mile 99 M6.
Replacing the shocks now and see a dark cruddy grey/brown heavy weight oil around where the rear pass side cv boot is...
I had just replaced rear end and transmission fluids (rp gear max/gm synro mesh) and the stuff flung around that axle doesnt look as purdy as the newer fluids I just put in a week ago.
I have a boot with a hole in it too, but I haven't tried to remove it yet. I just used a soldering iron to melt the hole closed instead. I have a boot kit on order now.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 925
Likes: 0
From: Johnston, Iowa
Originally Posted by Flareside
The boots are sealed, they don't mix with the differential lube. The dark gray/brown grease is that way from the factory, and it's not supposed to be changed (unless it leaks out).
In the past I've popped the half shafts from the diff, so I know I can get 1/2 of the rr axle out. Trying to determine what size socket is needed to get the outter side of the axle out, 34mm or 35mm. I'll go to Sears and purchase a couple of sockets and find out. Then I'll order new cv boot and the oil that is inside the boot...
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 816
Likes: 0
From: peabody ma
Originally Posted by xlr8shn
rented a 34 mm socket from NAPA.
axle came out easy. rip on rr inner cv boot. ordered replacement from local dealer, Karl Chev here in iowegia
axle came out easy. rip on rr inner cv boot. ordered replacement from local dealer, Karl Chev here in iowegia
thanks
jack
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 925
Likes: 0
From: Johnston, Iowa
1) remove rear tire (obviously)
2) the two 18 mm bolts that connect the "A" upper control arm to car
3) the two 13 mm upper rear shock bolts
4) remove brake caliper: two 15mm bolts and use 16 mm wrench to keep the lil pistons from spinning when removing the 15 mm bolts... (I left the brake mount and the disc and hub on the car)
5) disconnect e-brake cable from behind rear hub and disconnect the wire connector that is next to the e-brake line at the rear hub.
I did NOT touch any of the ball joints.
Finally, pull the axle from the hub first (right after removing the 34 mm nut and soaking thread with WD40) then remove the back half of the axle from the differential... Came right out, no prob.
2) the two 18 mm bolts that connect the "A" upper control arm to car
3) the two 13 mm upper rear shock bolts
4) remove brake caliper: two 15mm bolts and use 16 mm wrench to keep the lil pistons from spinning when removing the 15 mm bolts... (I left the brake mount and the disc and hub on the car)
5) disconnect e-brake cable from behind rear hub and disconnect the wire connector that is next to the e-brake line at the rear hub.
I did NOT touch any of the ball joints.
Finally, pull the axle from the hub first (right after removing the 34 mm nut and soaking thread with WD40) then remove the back half of the axle from the differential... Came right out, no prob.
Last edited by xlr8shn; Apr 1, 2005 at 09:06 AM.
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Safety Car
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 4,148
Likes: 5
From: Roxbury NJ
Originally Posted by xlr8shn
1) remove rear tire (obviously)
2) the two 18 mm bolts that connect the "A" upper control arm to car
3) the two 13 mm upper rear shock bolts
4) remove brake caliper: two 15mm bolts and use 16 mm wrench to keep the lil pistons from spinning when removing the 15 mm bolts... (I left the brake mount and the disc and hub on the car)
5) disconnect e-brake cable from behind rear hub and disconnect the wire connector that is next to the e-brake line at the rear hub.
I did NOT touch any of the ball joints.
Finally, pull the axle from the hub first (right after removing the 34 mm nut and soaking thread with WD40) then remove the back half of the axle from the differential... Came right out, no prob.
2) the two 18 mm bolts that connect the "A" upper control arm to car
3) the two 13 mm upper rear shock bolts
4) remove brake caliper: two 15mm bolts and use 16 mm wrench to keep the lil pistons from spinning when removing the 15 mm bolts... (I left the brake mount and the disc and hub on the car)
5) disconnect e-brake cable from behind rear hub and disconnect the wire connector that is next to the e-brake line at the rear hub.
I did NOT touch any of the ball joints.
Finally, pull the axle from the hub first (right after removing the 34 mm nut and soaking thread with WD40) then remove the back half of the axle from the differential... Came right out, no prob.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 925
Likes: 0
From: Johnston, Iowa
The actual boot removal etc will occurr tonight when I get home from work. Not too sure of the proceedure but will post here what I find out.
I might take the half shaft and boot to the local Magic Muffler and get a pro's help and advice with clamp removal and whether the clamps can/should be reused, etc.
If anyone else has done this, boot removal/replacement seems easy enough, please speak up
I might take the half shaft and boot to the local Magic Muffler and get a pro's help and advice with clamp removal and whether the clamps can/should be reused, etc.
If anyone else has done this, boot removal/replacement seems easy enough, please speak up
