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problems running 160 thermostat?

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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 03:26 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Korreck
How did you lose two gallons? Should have been a quart.

Bob
Not sure man...well, for starters I didn't drain the radiator b/c I couldn't get to the valve. I just pulled the lower hose and took off the stat. But when I started it wasn't low and it took a full 2 gallons when I finished...
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 08:01 AM
  #42  
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I have a 160 stat and am convinced it's the only way to go.
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 09:32 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by fstrthnu01
Not sure man...well, for starters I didn't drain the radiator b/c I couldn't get to the valve. I just pulled the lower hose and took off the stat. But when I started it wasn't low and it took a full 2 gallons when I finished...
Don't drain the radiator. Have your wrench ready and the new thermostat. Pull the hose off the thermostat and hold the end up. Unbolt the old and put in the new. Only fluid lost is when you pull the hose off. Easier with someone to hold the hose up.

I just did a search and Evil Twin did a great job describing how to change it and I quote:

"I change my stat twice a year. spring 160f stat....and fall stat 190f..
I takes less than five minutes to replace the stat.... I loose less than a pint of coolant... Ive done this ten times without any issues... no air and no other problems... The car is cold and there are no problems with heated coolant...
It's slide up the radiator hose clamp..
remove the radiator hose and tuck it under the heater hose
the stat is close (Cold Engine) so you will lose no water,
take one housing bolt out of the housing.. put some anti sieze on it...
Have the new housing and stat with the O ring greased in place.

Now press the stat towards the engine with one hand and remove the other housing bolt with the other..
grab the newe stat and with one motion remove the old stat and put on the new one applying pressure towards the engine block.. this is the only time you will lose any coolant.. the eachgange takes ten seconds.... now grab the bolt that you applied th anti sieze too and put it in and tighten it alittle.. this will hold the stat in place. put some anti sieze onthe other bolt . torque to spec and replace the hose and the clamp... run engine check coolant level."

Bob

Last edited by Korreck; Apr 7, 2005 at 09:43 AM.
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 09:42 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by fstrthnu01
Not sure man...well, for starters I didn't drain the radiator b/c I couldn't get to the valve. I just pulled the lower hose and took off the stat. But when I started it wasn't low and it took a full 2 gallons when I finished...


I'm guessing since you did it in a parking lot, the car wasn't cooled down all the way and the system was still pressurized, that is why the high amount of coolant loss.

Sounds like your old thermo was getting ready to completely fail on you, gladd you got it fixed.
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 10:31 AM
  #45  
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From: Ocala, Fl. State of Confusion
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Originally Posted by EHS
I rebuilt at 350 hours (for about $9,000) a Lycoming O-435 that used to run at 170 degrees all year round. The internal corrosion and rust was amazing.

I don't run it at that temperature anymore. Lesson learned.
What temp thermostat and what type antifreeze/water mixture was used in this air cooled engine?
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 10:48 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by TomT
What temp thermostat and what type antifreeze/water mixture was used in this air cooled engine?


ROFLMAO!!!!!
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 04:01 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by TomT
What temp thermostat and what type antifreeze/water mixture was used in this air cooled engine?
Sweet, err, ...Tommy,

Too bad that wasn't the point of my post, which was, ...let me type it for you "real" slowly, -- that it is important to get the engine temperature (air cooled or water cooled), -- specifically the oil temperature (air cooled or water cooled) up to at least 212F, so that that any internal condensation (that would be the "water") in the engine crankcase/block (or the oil) can boil off.

You see, believe it or not, both air cooled and water cooled engines use something called "oil" to lubricate their parts.

And, when the oil sits, or the -- watch this -- the air cooled or water cooled engine doesn't get up to a high enough temperature to eliminate the condensation, then internal corrosion results, in, errrr...., guess what, an air cooled or water cooled engine.

So that big ol' air cool' Lycoming 435 cu.in. aeroplane 'ingun seems lack it's gots some thung in comm'n wid dat Chevy of your afters all

Too much of a conceptual leap for you, there? Get it now?

No? I's figures.
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 04:18 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by lvvette777
ROFLMAO!!!!!
"Don't laugh at youth for his affectations; he is only trying on one face after another to find his own."
Logan P. Smith
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 04:46 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by EHS
Sweet, err, ...Tommy,

Too bad that wasn't the point of my post, which was, ...let me type it for you "real" slowly, -- that it is important to get the engine temperature (air cooled or water cooled), -- specifically the oil temperature (air cooled or water cooled) up to at least 212F, so that that any internal condensation (that would be the "water") in the engine crankcase/block (or the oil) can boil off.

You see, believe it or not, both air cooled and water cooled engines use something called "oil" to lubricate their parts.

And, when the oil sits, or the -- watch this -- the air cooled or water cooled engine doesn't get up to a high enough temperature to eliminate the condensation, then internal corrosion results, in, errrr...., guess what, an air cooled or water cooled engine.

So that big ol' air cool' Lycoming 435 cu.in. aeroplane 'ingun seems lack it's gots some thung in comm'n wid dat Chevy of your afters all

Too much of a conceptual leap for you, there? Get it now?

No? I's figures.
It is you that can't read. The thread was about thermostats. Not your crappy Lycoming. Not air cooled engines. Since this is way beyond your comprehension, I will type r e a l s l o w. T H E R M O S T A T S.
If this reading stuff is over your head, please report to the third grade again or have your mother give you a hand.
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 05:37 PM
  #50  
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I am running a 170 Tstat in south florida and on the highway the temp is about 186+- !. Now somewhere I read that the sweet spot for the ls-1 is to run at around 190 for total performance If this is true then 170 Tstat is also to cool, so maybe we need a 175 or 180 to get to the sweet spot. By the way the orginal Tstat the temp was always at 200 - 205 on the highway.
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 06:14 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by EHS
Sweet, err, ...Tommy,

Too bad that wasn't the point of my post, which was, ...let me type it for you "real" slowly, -- that it is important to get the engine temperature (air cooled or water cooled), -- specifically the oil temperature (air cooled or water cooled) up to at least 212F, so that that any internal condensation (that would be the "water") in the engine crankcase/block (or the oil) can boil off.

You see, believe it or not, both air cooled and water cooled engines use something called "oil" to lubricate their parts.

And, when the oil sits, or the -- watch this -- the air cooled or water cooled engine doesn't get up to a high enough temperature to eliminate the condensation, then internal corrosion results, in, errrr...., guess what, an air cooled or water cooled engine.

So that big ol' air cool' Lycoming 435 cu.in. aeroplane 'ingun seems lack it's gots some thung in comm'n wid dat Chevy of your afters all

Too much of a conceptual leap for you, there? Get it now?

No? I's figures.
Could you be more specific? Just kidding. Thanks for the laugh. Wish I had your talent.

Bob

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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 06:16 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by DTV
I am running a 170 Tstat in south florida and on the highway the temp is about 186+- !. Now somewhere I read that the sweet spot for the ls-1 is to run at around 190 for total performance If this is true then 170 Tstat is also to cool, so maybe we need a 175 or 180 to get to the sweet spot. By the way the orginal Tstat the temp was always at 200 - 205 on the highway.
I also live in the sunshine state and run a 160. Engine stays around 180 and oil around 210. Drive it and don't worry so much about a few degrees.

Bob
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 06:46 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Korreck
Don't drain the radiator. Have your wrench ready and the new thermostat. Pull the hose off the thermostat and hold the end up. Unbolt the old and put in the new. Only fluid lost is when you pull the hose off. Easier with someone to hold the hose up.

I just did a search and Evil Twin did a great job describing how to change it and I quote:

"I change my stat twice a year. spring 160f stat....and fall stat 190f..
I takes less than five minutes to replace the stat.... I loose less than a pint of coolant... Ive done this ten times without any issues... no air and no other problems... The car is cold and there are no problems with heated coolant...
It's slide up the radiator hose clamp..
remove the radiator hose and tuck it under the heater hose
the stat is close (Cold Engine) so you will lose no water,
take one housing bolt out of the housing.. put some anti sieze on it...
Have the new housing and stat with the O ring greased in place.

Now press the stat towards the engine with one hand and remove the other housing bolt with the other..
grab the newe stat and with one motion remove the old stat and put on the new one applying pressure towards the engine block.. this is the only time you will lose any coolant.. the eachgange takes ten seconds.... now grab the bolt that you applied th anti sieze too and put it in and tighten it alittle.. this will hold the stat in place. put some anti sieze onthe other bolt . torque to spec and replace the hose and the clamp... run engine check coolant level."

Bob
Korreck, have you ever done it????????
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 07:44 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Korreck
Could you be more specific? Just kidding. Thanks for the laugh. Wish I had your talent.

Bob


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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 09:02 PM
  #55  
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90 droptop
This message is hidden because 90 droptop is on your ignore list.

Poop top, I can't hear you.
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 09:32 PM
  #56  
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I think that the problem is your fans aren't programmed right. You may be able to have them reset. I'm pretty sure any handheld programmer will allow you to adjust your fans exactly to where you want. I have the HyperTech III that has this feature. I just got an SLP 160 stat, I'll install as soon as I can and let you know what kind of luck I have.
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 10:03 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Korreck
90 droptop
This message is hidden because 90 droptop is on your ignore list.

Poop top, I can't hear you.

Get a life loserboy.
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 10:23 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by fstrthnu01
Mark, did you have your fans reset?
Yes. I had a full dyno tune done ($535).

Mark
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