problems running 160 thermostat?
Bob

I just did a search and Evil Twin did a great job describing how to change it and I quote:
"I change my stat twice a year. spring 160f stat....and fall stat 190f..
I takes less than five minutes to replace the stat.... I loose less than a pint of coolant... Ive done this ten times without any issues... no air and no other problems... The car is cold and there are no problems with heated coolant...
It's slide up the radiator hose clamp..
remove the radiator hose and tuck it under the heater hose
the stat is close (Cold Engine) so you will lose no water,
take one housing bolt out of the housing.. put some anti sieze on it...
Have the new housing and stat with the O ring greased in place.
Now press the stat towards the engine with one hand and remove the other housing bolt with the other..
grab the newe stat and with one motion remove the old stat and put on the new one applying pressure towards the engine block.. this is the only time you will lose any coolant.. the eachgange takes ten seconds.... now grab the bolt that you applied th anti sieze too and put it in and tighten it alittle.. this will hold the stat in place. put some anti sieze onthe other bolt . torque to spec and replace the hose and the clamp... run engine check coolant level."
Bob
Last edited by Korreck; Apr 7, 2005 at 09:43 AM.
I'm guessing since you did it in a parking lot, the car wasn't cooled down all the way and the system was still pressurized, that is why the high amount of coolant loss.
Sounds like your old thermo was getting ready to completely fail on you, gladd you got it fixed.
I don't run it at that temperature anymore. Lesson learned.

Too bad that wasn't the point of my post, which was, ...let me type it for you "real" slowly, -- that it is important to get the engine temperature (air cooled or water cooled), -- specifically the oil temperature (air cooled or water cooled) up to at least 212F, so that that any internal condensation (that would be the "water") in the engine crankcase/block (or the oil) can boil off.
You see, believe it or not, both air cooled and water cooled engines use something called "oil" to lubricate their parts.
And, when the oil sits, or the -- watch this -- the air cooled or water cooled engine doesn't get up to a high enough temperature to eliminate the condensation, then internal corrosion results, in, errrr...., guess what, an air cooled or water cooled engine.
So that big ol' air cool' Lycoming 435 cu.in. aeroplane 'ingun seems lack it's gots some thung in comm'n wid dat Chevy of your afters all
Too much of a conceptual leap for you, there? Get it now?
No? I's figures.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Too bad that wasn't the point of my post, which was, ...let me type it for you "real" slowly, -- that it is important to get the engine temperature (air cooled or water cooled), -- specifically the oil temperature (air cooled or water cooled) up to at least 212F, so that that any internal condensation (that would be the "water") in the engine crankcase/block (or the oil) can boil off.
You see, believe it or not, both air cooled and water cooled engines use something called "oil" to lubricate their parts.
And, when the oil sits, or the -- watch this -- the air cooled or water cooled engine doesn't get up to a high enough temperature to eliminate the condensation, then internal corrosion results, in, errrr...., guess what, an air cooled or water cooled engine.
So that big ol' air cool' Lycoming 435 cu.in. aeroplane 'ingun seems lack it's gots some thung in comm'n wid dat Chevy of your afters all
Too much of a conceptual leap for you, there? Get it now?
No? I's figures.
If this reading stuff is over your head, please report to the third grade again or have your mother give you a hand.
Too bad that wasn't the point of my post, which was, ...let me type it for you "real" slowly, -- that it is important to get the engine temperature (air cooled or water cooled), -- specifically the oil temperature (air cooled or water cooled) up to at least 212F, so that that any internal condensation (that would be the "water") in the engine crankcase/block (or the oil) can boil off.
You see, believe it or not, both air cooled and water cooled engines use something called "oil" to lubricate their parts.
And, when the oil sits, or the -- watch this -- the air cooled or water cooled engine doesn't get up to a high enough temperature to eliminate the condensation, then internal corrosion results, in, errrr...., guess what, an air cooled or water cooled engine.
So that big ol' air cool' Lycoming 435 cu.in. aeroplane 'ingun seems lack it's gots some thung in comm'n wid dat Chevy of your afters all
Too much of a conceptual leap for you, there? Get it now?
No? I's figures.
Bob
Bob
I just did a search and Evil Twin did a great job describing how to change it and I quote:
"I change my stat twice a year. spring 160f stat....and fall stat 190f..
I takes less than five minutes to replace the stat.... I loose less than a pint of coolant... Ive done this ten times without any issues... no air and no other problems... The car is cold and there are no problems with heated coolant...
It's slide up the radiator hose clamp..
remove the radiator hose and tuck it under the heater hose
the stat is close (Cold Engine) so you will lose no water,
take one housing bolt out of the housing.. put some anti sieze on it...
Have the new housing and stat with the O ring greased in place.
Now press the stat towards the engine with one hand and remove the other housing bolt with the other..
grab the newe stat and with one motion remove the old stat and put on the new one applying pressure towards the engine block.. this is the only time you will lose any coolant.. the eachgange takes ten seconds.... now grab the bolt that you applied th anti sieze too and put it in and tighten it alittle.. this will hold the stat in place. put some anti sieze onthe other bolt . torque to spec and replace the hose and the clamp... run engine check coolant level."
Bob















