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Does it matter if you bolt the bottom strut rods from the bottom up near the transmission? On my car, it looked like I'd have to shave the tranny carrier to allow the nut to spin all the way down the bolt. There was a "nub" sticking out on the case (not a manufacturing defect, it looks like it's intentionally there) that would interfere with an socket/wrench I might try to use.
As far as I can tell, it's important to have the strut rods firmly attached to the tranny and the diff, but it doesn't look like there's anything particularly important about the mount location and that moving the strut down about .5 inches by mounting it on the bottom of the tab instead of the top shouldn't be an issue.
Above mounting question aside, are the strut rods supposed to be completely parallel to each other or are they supposed to run slightly different directions and have slightly different angles? My instruction manual photos seemed to show a perfectly rectangular set of strut rods whereas mine aren't.... might just be an optical illusion with the photo?
Does it matter if you bolt the bottom strut rods from the bottom up near the transmission? On my car, it looked like I'd have to shave the tranny carrier to allow the nut to spin all the way down the bolt. There was a "nub" sticking out on the case (not a manufacturing defect, it looks like it's intentionally there) that would interfere with an socket/wrench I might try to use.
As far as I can tell, it's important to have the strut rods firmly attached to the tranny and the diff, but it doesn't look like there's anything particularly important about the mount location and that moving the strut down about .5 inches by mounting it on the bottom of the tab instead of the top shouldn't be an issue.
Above mounting question aside, are the strut rods supposed to be completely parallel to each other or are they supposed to run slightly different directions and have slightly different angles? My instruction manual photos seemed to show a perfectly rectangular set of strut rods whereas mine aren't.... might just be an optical illusion with the photo?
I would contact DTE. Or check their website for info.
I thought the same thing. And yes, A LOT of things are in the way when trying to tighten most of the bolts/heim joints, etc. I will never do another one without droping the rear cradle. That was a nightmare, and my knuckles are just now healing. I would mount them just as they are in the instructions, and yes, they should be pretty much rectangular when installed. This was by far the the worst DIY job I have done to my vette. The cam took longer, but was nowhere near as frustrating. Now, if I could just get rid of this horrid wheel hop.....
I jus tput mine on. the Bars run parallel, It sounds like you might have yours tweeked just a bit, thats why it is not lining up right. I did mine with the cradle removed up on a lift so it wasn't bad at all. I would definetly contact DTE if you are having any trouble, because if this thing isn't installed right, I don't think it works!
We do not suggest anyone deviating from our recommended installation procedures in any application. We've already tested many of the "changes" that we've seen folks try with our product to make it "better" and the results are not as favorable as what we have already designed and engineered into the system with the proper installation described in the instructions supplied in the kit.
Does it matter if you bolt the bottom strut rods from the bottom up near the transmission? On my car, it looked like I'd have to shave the tranny carrier to allow the nut to spin all the way down the bolt. There was a "nub" sticking out on the case (not a manufacturing defect, it looks like it's intentionally there) that would interfere with an socket/wrench I might try to use.
Did you start to thread the diff mounted heim joint first or the tranny heim joint first? I had to start the tranny bracket bolt first, simular circumstance to yours, but mine threaded up fine afterwards.