Trouble starting car
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,139
Likes: 2
From: Whidbey Island WA
Trouble starting car
I posted this in C5 General with no help.... perhaps someone here can help.
This moring I go out to the car and attempt to start it. It turned over for a second and died. This happend two more times and then it started and off I went. I drove for about 20 min. and stopped and left the car for may be an hour. Went to start and it did the same.... 3 stalls and then it started and ran fine.
Checked it later in the day and no problems.
Car is a year old and this happened a couple of times (only stalled once on each event and then all was well) the first few months I had it.
Checked codes and this is what came up:
60 IPC .....(Instrument Panel Cluster) Code: U1064H
and
A1 RDCM ...... (Right Door Control Module) Code: U1064H
U1064H = Loss of Communication with BCM
Any thoughts???
Thanks!
This moring I go out to the car and attempt to start it. It turned over for a second and died. This happend two more times and then it started and off I went. I drove for about 20 min. and stopped and left the car for may be an hour. Went to start and it did the same.... 3 stalls and then it started and ran fine.
Checked it later in the day and no problems.
Car is a year old and this happened a couple of times (only stalled once on each event and then all was well) the first few months I had it.
Checked codes and this is what came up:
60 IPC .....(Instrument Panel Cluster) Code: U1064H
and
A1 RDCM ...... (Right Door Control Module) Code: U1064H
U1064H = Loss of Communication with BCM
Any thoughts???
Thanks!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
This is a VERY common issue. For me it is very easy to diagnosis! BEEN THERE! 
If you get deep into the DTC codes, the U1064H
codes indicate that those modules are shutting down because of a loss of power or over voltage. Most likley, it is a loss of voltage. It could be one of a hand full of things:
1. Loose battery/ dirty or corroded battery terminals.
2. Bad battery.
3. Loose connection at the starter solonid.
4. Bad/ loose grounds.
I would start with the battery cables. Remove both of them, clean them with a wire brush and re-install. Make sure that the terminals are nice and tight. Side mounted terminals get torqued to 11ft/lbs. if you have a top mount terminal, i do not know the torque specs for that one.
Make sure that your battery is good. Autozone can test it for you. If it bad, get it replaced. Still under warranty?????
Please let me know how you make out.
Bill Curlee
If you get deep into the DTC codes, the U1064Hcodes indicate that those modules are shutting down because of a loss of power or over voltage. Most likley, it is a loss of voltage. It could be one of a hand full of things:
1. Loose battery/ dirty or corroded battery terminals.
2. Bad battery.
3. Loose connection at the starter solonid.
4. Bad/ loose grounds.
I would start with the battery cables. Remove both of them, clean them with a wire brush and re-install. Make sure that the terminals are nice and tight. Side mounted terminals get torqued to 11ft/lbs. if you have a top mount terminal, i do not know the torque specs for that one.
Make sure that your battery is good. Autozone can test it for you. If it bad, get it replaced. Still under warranty?????
Please let me know how you make out.
Bill Curlee
Pro
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 682
Likes: 8
From: Alexandria VA
Originally Posted by 2000 zo6
Check your battery connections,if they're tight enough check the battery it self.Just my o2s
Ahmad
Ahmad
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: VIRGINIA BEACH VA
A couple of weeks ago I had the same problem. I honestly do not remember what codes were displayed but this is what we found. One of the battery bolts had cracked in half and the battery started leaking acid around the bolt. Once we did that I have not had anymore problems with the car not starting. All other connections at the started were tight. If you are leaking acid, check to make sure it has not dripped on the wiring harness under the tray.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,139
Likes: 2
From: Whidbey Island WA
Thanks guys.... I'll go do some looking around. One other thing I just remembered, I've been getting a "Charge Fault" (I believe that's it) message a few times over the last month. If I hold the key to "start" a fraction of a second longer during starting, I don't get that message.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,139
Likes: 2
From: Whidbey Island WA
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
BATTERY CONNECTIONS!!! 
I bet ya a there loose and nasty!
I bet ya a there loose and nasty!Bill, thanks for the reply.... actually, they're tight and look like new. Car's an '04. Don't know how tight they should be but I can't move them and put a socket on there and, said socket is now under the battery platform
, and they're tight.Perhaps I should have the battery checked out.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,139
Likes: 2
From: Whidbey Island WA
Originally Posted by DickieC.99
Thats the first thing that came to my mind as well. Also check to make sure the connections are clean. Also, when it is running how does it idle?
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
I have / had the exact same problem. My battery was bad. It failed
the load test. Installed new battery. Problem did not go away
completely, although it seemed to improve ( did not happen as often ).
I replaced sparkplugs and wires yesterday. Five of the eight plugs
were missing the platinum puck on the ground electrode, this opens the
gap from .060 to .069. Car has 23,000 miles. She now starts and runs
strong. So far.
My theory, the battery alone could not provide the coils enough amperes to jump the large sparkplug gap while spinning the starter
and energizing all the electronics. One the alternator kicked in she
ran without incident.
Good luck!
the load test. Installed new battery. Problem did not go away
completely, although it seemed to improve ( did not happen as often ).
I replaced sparkplugs and wires yesterday. Five of the eight plugs
were missing the platinum puck on the ground electrode, this opens the
gap from .060 to .069. Car has 23,000 miles. She now starts and runs
strong. So far.
My theory, the battery alone could not provide the coils enough amperes to jump the large sparkplug gap while spinning the starter
and energizing all the electronics. One the alternator kicked in she
ran without incident.
Good luck!