Crankshaft Balancer slipped loose. Remove the engine??
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Huntington Beach, CA, USA
Crankshaft Balancer slipped loose. Remove the engine??
The crankshaft balancer on my 97 Vette has come loose and moved forward about an inch. The local dealer said they have to remove the entire engine to fix it. This doesn't sound right.
Also, I understand the balancer has to be put back into it's original position, but if the balancer has slipped loose and changed rotational position relative to the crankshaft, how do they determine it's original/correct position if the two are not "pinned" or "keyed" together?
I hate dealers, but I don't have a lot of choices here. Do they really have to pull the entire engine??
Matt
Also, I understand the balancer has to be put back into it's original position, but if the balancer has slipped loose and changed rotational position relative to the crankshaft, how do they determine it's original/correct position if the two are not "pinned" or "keyed" together?
I hate dealers, but I don't have a lot of choices here. Do they really have to pull the entire engine??
Matt
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
From: Savannah GA
I have the same problem on my '99 right now (but I discovered it the day before I left for Iraq, so it'll have to wait until I get back). I have the service manuals (in 3-phonebook thick volumes), which details exactly what you have to do to change it. You have to remove quite a few components to get at the pulley, but far less than you would if you were to remove the engine.
Even if they do not have to remove the engine, however, the cost for labor will still be rather steep. I was quoted $1200 for labor alone, so I just opted to just let the car sit for a year and fix the problem when I do my head/cam/headers/intake manifold swap when I get back.
Unfortunately, I do not have the service manuals with me here (and can't tell you exactly what components need to be removed in order to get at the pulley), but there was another forum member who offered some good advice on it. He also suggested pinning the new pully in order to prevent the same problem from happening again in the future. I wish I could remember his name, but I can't. Hopefully he'll respond to your thread.
Even if they do not have to remove the engine, however, the cost for labor will still be rather steep. I was quoted $1200 for labor alone, so I just opted to just let the car sit for a year and fix the problem when I do my head/cam/headers/intake manifold swap when I get back.
Unfortunately, I do not have the service manuals with me here (and can't tell you exactly what components need to be removed in order to get at the pulley), but there was another forum member who offered some good advice on it. He also suggested pinning the new pully in order to prevent the same problem from happening again in the future. I wish I could remember his name, but I can't. Hopefully he'll respond to your thread.
Resident moron
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,746
Likes: 20
From: Assachusetts
You have to remove a bunch of stuff but certainly not the engine and certainly nothing major.
You don't have to put it on in the same orientation either. However, if it's spun on the crank then you should probably either get a new one or pin the crank, cuz it's just gonna happen again.
Use the opportunity and buy an ASP underdrive one instead?
Sounds like the shop wants to rip you off. Find a reputable shop, or a local board member who can help you, or do it yourself. It can be a pain in the *** without the right tools. Especially since there is a specific re-tightening procedure which requires a lot of torque (I think you have to torque the old bolt to 240+ ft/lbs). Plus pinning the crank can be a bit of a pain too.
Dope
You don't have to put it on in the same orientation either. However, if it's spun on the crank then you should probably either get a new one or pin the crank, cuz it's just gonna happen again.
Use the opportunity and buy an ASP underdrive one instead?
Sounds like the shop wants to rip you off. Find a reputable shop, or a local board member who can help you, or do it yourself. It can be a pain in the *** without the right tools. Especially since there is a specific re-tightening procedure which requires a lot of torque (I think you have to torque the old bolt to 240+ ft/lbs). Plus pinning the crank can be a bit of a pain too.
Dope
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,613
Likes: 0
From: Spring Tx
You dont remove the engine anyway you remove the body from the engine chassis assembly, then you still have disconnect the steering rack. If there was a certain way the balancer had to go on they would have keyed the nose of the crankchaft...Omg I'm talking like a mexican. And tuners would be charging $1500 labor to install a cam. Get a pin kit and an ASP pulley while your at it. 
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,936
Likes: 9
From: Menifee California
Originally Posted by juiced
all you have to do is loosen the abs block, unbolt the steering colum, slide the rack over and it's pretty simple about 3 hours worth of work with some air tools
Uneducated autodidact
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 5,413
Likes: 253
From: West of the Sabine, Texas
not to hijack your thread, but a related question
What are the current options for a balancer? I'm not a big proponent of underdrive pullies, so I will probably use a stock damper when I do my H/C job. Just wondering if there are any new offerings on the market....
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,315
Likes: 17
From: Near Jacksonville Fl.
Use the ATI super damper and pin the crank while your at it!
Really its not that difficult, just remove the rack and the stability control unit if you have it.
Then use red loctite on a new bolt and torque to 100lbft or more and your good to go.
If you pin the crank there is NO reason to use the torque to yeild method!
Really its not that difficult, just remove the rack and the stability control unit if you have it.
Then use red loctite on a new bolt and torque to 100lbft or more and your good to go.
If you pin the crank there is NO reason to use the torque to yeild method!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,251
Likes: 4
Originally Posted by corvettebob1
Use the ATI super damper and pin the crank while your at it!
Really its not that difficult, just remove the rack and the stability control unit if you have it.
Then use red loctite on a new bolt and torque to 100lbft or more and your good to go.
If you pin the crank there is NO reason to use the torque to yeild method!
Really its not that difficult, just remove the rack and the stability control unit if you have it.
Then use red loctite on a new bolt and torque to 100lbft or more and your good to go.
If you pin the crank there is NO reason to use the torque to yeild method!
. Check on the FI section for a crank pinning kit. Some of the SC tuners will rent or loan you one to use. Quicksilvers pinning slide show.
