I am tired of paying a local shop tons of money to not fix my problem. I think my fuel pump is not working properly.

Do our cars have one pump or two? I called a parts dept and they asked which pump I needed...right or left...

Has anyone done this repair before? My car only has 7300 miles on it, but it sat in storage for almost a year due to a deployment to Afghanistan.

If possible, can someone send me the instructions on how to do this...the ones in the repair manual?

refer here for more info...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...389&forum_id=1

Thanks

 

I just replaced mine with a Racetronix kit. It was not hard. Worst part is draining the tank. Then getting the pump back in the canister. If your pump is not working, then it may be messy to drain. Save that for last if possible. You have 2 pumps. 1 that transfers fuel from the passenger tank to the drivers tank, and 1 that pressurizes the fuel rail (back of drivers tank). But not to get ahead of the troubleshooting. The fuel filter has a regulator built in. Have you checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail? Should be over 50 - 57psi with key on. If you havn't checked, do that. A fuel pressure guage is easy to get and screws right into the drivers side end. After that look at filter issues. Then pump issues. Post if you need details on how to get to the pump.

 

Thanks...part of the prob is I do not know where the filter is, etc. Let me know where it is and I will check that tomorrow.

How long did you spend on the car? Is a lift needed? I unscrewed the cover on the fuel rail, but did not see a shrader valve...is it pretty far back or should I be able to see it? I have access to a fuel pressure gauge. The original owner ran NOS a few times, so I am not sure what he modified.

Since the pump is in the tank, is there a door or something that will give me access to the pump?

You said it will be difficult to drain if the pump is bad...how difficult?

 

 

Not sure if this is what you have...


But I had a "screaming" fuel pump in my '97 that sits right behind the driver's seat. I didn't have the guts to do the repair myself as just about anything that has to do with gasoline scares me off.

Brought it to my highly recommended, great, loves Vette's, mechanic. It cost me about $700 plus but I think it was worth it.

If this isn't what you have, sorry, but I enjoyed telling the story anyway.

 

If you go to the Magnacharger web site, they have installation instructions that are very detailed with photo's for installing the Magnacharger. Part of the installation is a fuel pump replacement. You can download those instructions and they will provide you what you need to do to change the pump. I would make sure its the pump prior to changing though, is there a reason that you suspect the pump?

Also, if the car only has 7,300 miles on it, isn't it under warrantee? If over on years, and you served a year in Afganistan and the car was under warrantee when you left, I would think GM would step up and fix the car.

When did you do the H/C? Has this been a problem since that was done? Wondering if the pump is up to task and/or the injectors. Where are you located?

 

Took me about 2 hours to do everything after gas was drained. Compared to me removing the enigne and replacing 3 times, the pump was easy. Did the Engine have the problem before it sat in storage for the year? Did you use a fuel stabilizer. Moisture could have done damage or gummed up the pump, wire connectors in the tank, or the filter/regulator. I would say try the warranty route at dealer.

Have you put fresh gas in the tank?

If you decided to DIY on the filter, your gonna need some jack stands & wheel chalks minimum. The filter sits up above the tranny on drivers side tunnel. 1/2 size of Coke can (you should have the new one to compare). Should have 2 lines going in rear and 1 in front. Has single 10mm bolt holding it on. You'll need fuel line remover for front line and needle nose for rear lines. Fuel will run out for just a few second and stop. Keep old filter level and no more gas will get on you. When he new filter bolted on, make sure all the lines click in place. Take your time, and no smoking and no 110v drop lights. Use a flashlight if you must.

A&A Corvettes also has online instructions on the Racetronix Pump that can be adapted for stock replacement.

Pump is more involved, same deal with jack stands and safety 1st and foremost. You have to remove the alumn shield protecting the plastic tank. Right in front of the drivers side rear tire. Tank exposed will be loose but wont come out. You will see a round hatch with about 8 small bolts (8mm I think). Make a index mark so when the hatch is put back on it is lined up. Coming out of round hatch will be 3 hardlines, and a wire harness. I think you can drain the tank with the hard line with BLACK tab. (3 total - Blue Green Black) Disconnect the main line and hook up a tight fitting rubber hose to the 90deg nipple. Run to a storage tank or into another car. Turn key to ON but don't start. If it works, it will take long time to drain. If pump does not work, disconnect battery, then fuel will need to be drained from loosening the 8 bolts and let the gas seep out into a container (or) gravity drain from Green or Blue lines. Shake tank around to get out all the gas you can. Remove the other 2 lines at the hatch. Remove the small bolts. Pull out the unit about 2 inches and STOP, you will see a small metal rod going to a electronic gizmo. That is the float sensor and float rod. Simular to the one in a toilet. That has to be disconnected and left in tank until after the whole thing comes out. It is a delicate piece so take time. The plastic clip needs to be pulled off to get the float rod off. Take time with that. Once that is off you can pull and twist slowly and get the unit out with the filter sock. Put the whole thing on a table and make note where everything connects before you tear it apart. Wire, tubing location is important. You don't want that clear tube to interfer with the float when you put it back in the tank. Assuming you have a new pump with the wiring connector, you should also get a new filter sock. Carefully remove lid from plastic can, a little tricky with only 2 hands. Take note how wires run in. set aside. Now getting the pump out is easy, firmly push down on the inner lid opposite the pump. It should tilt. You can grab on with pliers and pull out. Replace pump, align pump inlet to the hole in bottom of canister and make sure o-ring is back in same place it was before. Getting the inner lid to snap in place is the trick. There is a ridge on the inside that holds the lid in place, the lid must be on the bottom side of ridge for the pump to work right. No bows or distortion of the inner lid allowed. Then route the wires, and tubes thru the top lid correctly. Snap upper lid back on, connect the wires and tube to the back of the hatch. Put on the new sock. Roll up the sock so you can get it thru the hole in tank, It will unroll. Reverse process for removing can from tank. Make sure the clear tube is opposite from where the float is going to be. Twist and push into tank. Leave 2 inchs to hook up float, install plactic clip to holds the rod on. Push the rest of the way in. Make sure the index mark is lined up. Do not over torque the little bolts. It does not take more than 6-8 lbs of torque. Reconnect everything. Make sure no leaks. Hope this help.

 

Dude, before you go busting into the fuel tank, buy a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up to the fuel rail first and see what kind of pressure you have. This will check your pump and filter at the same time.

EDIT: These things can be bought for around 40.00 at sears or most auto stores.

 

Bill Curlee posted about a month or two back on problems with grounds he found on his car. Wondering if you have some ground issues with the car in storage for a year. You might want to PM him and find out if he can send you a copy. I would check the simple things first that might be likely with the car in storage.

Good luck