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Thinking about replacing the rotors on my `98 with some slotted ones. Can I remove the caliper and replace the pads and rotors without doing any bleeding? thanks for any advice. seems I can replace pads, rotors and paint the cals...What am I not understanding ? Front and rears. Thanks for any advice.
From: Manchester - Political correctness is tyranny with manners.
Originally Posted by chazzvette
Thinking about replacing the rotors on my `98 with some slotted ones. Can I remove the caliper and replace the pads and rotors without doing any bleeding? thanks for any advice. seems I can replace pads, rotors and paint the cals...What am I not understanding ? Front and rears. Thanks for any advice.
YEs. I did all 4 rotors, pads, and painted the calipers....all without removing the lines.
From: Manchester - Political correctness is tyranny with manners.
Originally Posted by chazzvette
I heard some horror stories about caliper bolts, anything I need to be aware of ?
They are touqued to 125 ft lbs. GM says to replace them but I doubt that too many folks do that. I certainly didn't. If you choose to reuse these bolts, use Red high strength Loctite when reinstalling them. I can be a little testy getting the proper leverage on them, but I had no trouble getting each caliper removed. Above all, take your time, even if you have do it over a couple days.
PM me your E mail and I'll mail you a file with some pic's to help you.
Keith
I heard some horror stories about caliper bolts, anything I need to be aware of ?
Yes...they're on there very tight.
You'll likely need a breaker bar or an impact wrench to get them out. Use only a 6 point socket, and a 1/2" drive. If you don't have a 21mm socket and are buying one, I suggest one usable for an impact wrench, even if you plan on using it by hand. this way if you find it necessary to take advantage of the services of a hammer you run no risk of breaking the socket.
Clean the caliper bolt well with a wire brush to remove all the old loctite. I have a nice wire brush sized close to that of a toothbrush which works great.
Also use this brush to get as much rust and grime as possible off of the hub before putting the new rotor on (I actually use a dremel with a 200 grit brush). Uneven rust can cause excessive runout, resulting in pulsing and eventually warpage.
You'll need some red loctite for re-install (red high strength NOT PERMANENT), and obviously a torque wrench.
It's really a straightforward job once ya get going.
Get a 2 foot breaker bar and the bolts come off with no issues. Turn the steering wheel for easy access. To re-install, use new bolts or at least put locktite on the old ones. New bolts are cheap, so why not use them. Dont' be scared to bleed, it is a simple process if you have a helper, even easier if you use speedbleeders.
You dont have to bleed your brakes, but since you have eveything apart and are putting it back to gether, no time like the present to learn how to bleed the brakes.