Car is a 2001 M6.

Drove it yesterday, no problems. Never had a problem of this nature in the past. Try to start car this morning, no crank.

Battery is good. 13v with ignition on. All else (lights, gauges, etc) function as normal. Can hear fuel pump run when turning key to start position. Nothing indicative that the starter is trying to pull any current, if the battery voltage dropped when trying to start, everything else in the car would show symptoms of low voltage...that's not happening. . (here alone, so I can't measure at battery when trying to start...but all signs point to a good battery).

Clutch pedal switch seems to work. Hold key to start position with pedal out, then press pedal and you can hear relay click in floor fuse panel....looking at service manual, this should be the theft deterrant relay pulling in when clutch is depressed. Also, the 60a starter fuse in floor fusebox is good.

Service manual also says to listen for starter solenoid to click when trying to start....I haven't jacked up the car yet to be able to find out if it is or isn't. Probably do that next and inspect starter wiring and verify voltage from batt is there. How is the starter grounded? Is it just the body grounded to engine, or something obvious when looking at it or is there a ground wire that leads somewhere else? Any other relevant ground points to suspect or check? Do ya think the old "tap the starter" trick may work?

Any other known-common issues I should look for? Are the starters in these things known to be reliable or not? I'm really hoping to avoid the dealer, but if I can't figure it out, I guess I'll push-start it and drive it in.

Tell me what I haven't thought of yet..

Thanks,
Tom

 

Continued looking at service manual schematic....noticed the #14 (10a) "CRK" (crank) fuse. Went out and checked that, it was good.

For the heck of it, tried restarting, it cranked and fired right up. Retried it about 6 times...cranked and started flawlessly each time.

The ONLY difference this time, is I had the pass. door open when I tried to start it. I seem to recall a thread here not long ago describing a similar problem....car would not crank unless a door was open. Can't seem to find that thread now....what could this be about?

 

I had a similar problem last week.I have a 02 A4 Vert. However my car started after a few minutes with the door closed. Drove it home let it sit 15 minutes same problem. After several attemps it started again.Put the car in the garage and next morning no start.I tried my spare key and car started right up. I cleaned the chip on my old key with contact cleaner and have not had a problem since. The key has a risister on the chip that the Computer must read in order for the car to start. If it reads the wrong value it will not start.Try your spare key and see if it works for you.

 

Today is the third time this no start condition has occured. It didn't start last friday morning, but started in the efternoon. Then it was fine through the weekend and early this week. It failed to crank again yesterday morning. Again, it started in the afternoon.
This morning, again, no crank...and now Fri PM, it still is dead as I write this.

Went through the entire starter schematic, I have verified the BCM is providing ground to the theft deterrant relay. I have verified the clutch pedal switch is closing and providing +12v to the same relay. The relay pulls in when key is turned. I have also verified +12v at the red wire of the relay, and also 12v on the purple wire when relay pulls in. That purple wire runs direct to the starter solenoid terminal.

So, I've proved everything out down to the starter. Either the solenoid or starter itself is toast, or a poor connection at one of the 2 wires at the starter (although they look clean looking from above in the engine bay). The wiring leading down also appears fine, no interference with the header tubes.

My main problem right now is...I can't get a jack under the car, and can't get to the starter from underneath, which is the only way to access it. I usually drive it up on some thin ramps to allow my jack to get under it, but can't do that if the car won't start.

Can I push start this thing?

 

Check this older thread http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...LET&forum_id=1
Good luck

 

Thanks.

The battery is fine and has been load-tested. Holds well over 11v with a 100a draw. I've also tested the battery negative-to engine block ground continuity.

The theft-deterrant relay is functioning as it should, and all switched voltages and ground signals on that relay occur as they should. The purple output wire that runs from this relay directly to the starter solenoid has +12v during an attempted start.

The starting circuit for these cars is quite simple and very typical of any car. I've tested everything inside the car that can possibly be tested, it all is doing what it should. Yet, no response from the starter.

 

Please check the DTC codes in the DIC memory. If it is a security issue, it will set a code. I had a simular issue and my theft deterrent relay was BAD. The contacts inside were FRIED! You can remove the plastic cover and check out the inside of the relay without damaging it.

The starters are reliable and generaly are not a problem. The battery cables on the other hand can and do fail!!! This is what I would do:

Remove both battery cables. Exanine the inside of the cable terminal connectors and look for white acid deposits. I put a rag under the cable and blast it out the terminal end with Brake Parts Cleaner. After it is clean, I spray it with WD-40 and reassemble the connectors. Torque the battery terminals to 11 ft/lbs.

The connection on the starters have been known to come loose also and cause this same issue.

Please let us know how you make out.

Bill Curlee

 

Bill, your input is always appreciated.

No codes.
Cables are fine...starter never even tried to pull any current, so there's no voltage drop condition from a poor connection.

I got the car push-started this morning, and drove it out to my shop. once there, of course the car started flawlessly...6 times I tried, worked every time. As explained above, when it was in the no-start condition, I verified I had +12v at the purple start wire to the solenoid. And it didn't work.

So, the diagnosis is it's the starter solenoid.

The starter is currently out of the car...had to pull the pass. side header to get to it. The wire connections on it were clean and tight.
I have the new starter in hand, as soon as I find a new header gasket, it's back to the shop to put it all back together. Let's hope this finally solves the problem.

 

Did the starter fix your problem?

 

Yes it did.

Installled new starter last Saturday, and no problems since.