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I bought a used 1998 and the emergency brake didn't work, a trip to the dealer was no help since it didn't work the next day. I adjusted the rear brake shoes two years ago and the emergency brake still did not work. I removed the handle assembly, cleaned it then regreased it with Mobil 1 grease; it has worked great since then. There are two good links above that will help you or a mechanic repair the emergency brakes, both adjustment of the shoes and cleaning/ regreasing the handle assembly. I see no reason to dismiss people when they offer correct answers to questions as Lost did.
when you say didnt work what do you mean did you hear the ebrake ratchet engage and click when you pulled it ... it seems like the problems can be related to diff solutions...
for me personally the E brake works but its only stops the car when its pulled only all the way to the top... that is why i think adjusting the the brakes as Evil Twin has described is the right solution...
for others who dont lock up at all then you can consider the ratchet fix and go on from there...
From: Manchester - Political correctness is tyranny with manners.
There are TWO ratchet assemblys in the HANDLE. One for holding the handle in position and a seperate one for applying tension to the cable. The only "automatic adjuster" is in the handle and NOT the drum. The star adjuster in the drum is only for initial shoe adjustment when installing your rotor...there is no auto adjuster in the drum. Backing the car and slamming on the E-brake will NOT adjust the shoes in the drum. If the pawl in the handle is lubricated properly, it will automatically adjust as the handle is normally operated, by the internal pawl grabbing the next tooth on the ratchet as the lining on the shoes wears over time. Look up my post in the previous threads and LOOK AT THE PICTURE. These are easy to fix and probably one of the most misunderstood pieces of equipment in your car.
If the pawl in the handle is lubricated properly, it will automatically adjust as the handle is normally operated, by the internal pawl grabbing the next tooth on the ratchet as the lining on the shoes wears over time.
Sorry Ace but that only works to keep the slack out of the cables. If the shoes need to be adjusted then you just have to pull the rotors and adjust the shoes via the starwheels. No amount of handbrake use or cycling of the handle with the button held in will change the positon of the starwheels and the starwheels control how far the shoes expand.
From: Manchester - Political correctness is tyranny with manners.
Originally Posted by SFVetteman
Sorry Ace but that only works to keep the slack out of the cables. If the shoes need to be adjusted then you just have to pull the rotors and adjust the shoes via the starwheels. No amount of handbrake use or cycling of the handle with the button held in will change the positon of the starwheels and the starwheels control how far the shoes expand.
There are those who can be helped and then there are others who insist on blindly ignoring the facts....Good luck with however you fix your brakes..at least mine will actually work.
Last edited by DidntSettle98; May 24, 2005 at 08:05 PM.
Oh For Gods sake, I can't believe this "I'm absolutely right and you're absolutely wrong stuff
Face it, there are three reasons why the parking brake won't work.
The shoes are out of adjustment. (you need to adjust the shoes).
The cable has stretched (you need to cycle the ratchet mechanism a half dozen tiomes while holding the button in).
The grease in the ratchet mechanism has dried out. (you need to re-grease the mechanism).
The shoes being out of adjustment is a problem that affects both new and old cars. A stretched cable usually only occurs while the car is relatively new and dried out grease is usually found in older cars, particularly if the parking brake is seldom used.
As Walter Cronkite used to say "And that's the way it is", 'nuff said
There is a fourth reason - there is a "quiet tsb" on hand brake failures. The mechanism on one of your two brakes fails. The lever arm that goes from the cable to inside the brake assembly dislodges and does not provide any mechanical advantage. When this happens, the cable can't get tight on either side, as it is one cable and a failure on either side creates slack.
I know someone who had one fail in a parking lot and his car rolled back and pealed a corner off his door on one of the cart returns.