A club member posted this on our web site and he needs some help. All I can think of is that when the GM column lock repair was done they didn't do the computer upgrade. I'm most likely way off but can some one give an opinion??? Thanks in advance.......


Car ran fine on Saturday..... put it in the garage.....Sunday went to start it and the engine won't crank. I thought it was the battery, so I bought a new Optima Red Top and put it in, but the car does the same thing. It's not a column lock problem becasue the column unlocks when you turn the key on. The car is a 98 6spd.. I depress the clutch , turn the ignition on but still the engine won't crank over. I can hear other things happening that you should hear when you turn the ignition on and the lights etc. all work. Checked the battery with a volt meter and the battery is fine and the connections are tight. Having the car towed to Bryner's on Monday. Any ideas what might be wrong???

 

Maybe a bad ignition switch.

 

TTT for you good luck.

 

HEY!!! Before he get's it towed to the shop have him check his positive terminal on the starter. Mine loosened up on me. Just go put a 13 mm on the nut and let me know what you find. That sounds exactly like what he describes.

 

I recently had a similar problem, and ended up replacing the bad starter.

Since it doesn't seem to be a battery issue, here is how I would approach it.

1. Check the fuses. There is 2 related fuses in the pass footwell fusebox. Fuse #52 is a big 60amp fuse labeled "starter". Also check the small 10a fuse #14 labeled "crk" (crank). Also, test the battery voltage with a DC voltmeter. Test it both static, and while trying to crank.

If the fuses are both good, and the battery voltage is good, the next step is the relays and switches.

Snce it is a 6spd car, put in neutral and set E-brake.
Turn the key all the way to "crank" with the clutch pedal out , and while continuing to hold the key in the crank position, pump the clutch in and out. Do you hear a clicking sound from the pass side footwell?
If yes, this is your theft-deterrant relay pulling in and out. The theft deterrant relay is the one immediately to the left of the fusebox. At this point, I would connect a DC voltmeter, and probe the purple wire for +12v while turning the key to crank with the clutch pressed in. If you have 12v there, it could either be a poor connection at the starter solenoid, or the solenoid or starter motor itself is bad. Either way, everything inside the car is doing what it should...it's something on the starter itself.

If no, that relay is not pulling in when pressing the clutch in and out, and could be a bad clutch pedal switch, or for some reason the BCM isn't supplying a ground signal to this relay.
Using the voltmeter, while trying to crank with the clutch pressed in, you should have +12v at the yellow wire of the relay. If you don't, it's likely the clutch pedal switch, or possibly the ignition switch. If you do get 12v on the yellow wire, and the relay is not pulling in, the next step would be to check if the BCM is supplying the ground to the coil of the relay. This is the yellow/black wire. Use a continuity tester with the ignition on, and check that this wire has continuity to ground. If it does, go back to the DC voltmeter, and check for 12v between the yellow and yellow/black wires while trying to start (clutch pressed in). If you do, and the relay doesn't click, the relay itself is probably bad.

If the BCM is NOT supplying ground to that relay, that's a whole 'nother can of worms and I would have to investigate further if that if this in fact the case.

Below is schematic of the entire starting circuit. If you know your way around electricity, it should help you get it figured out. It is a relatively simple circuit typical of most cars.



Hope that helps.

 

Thanks for the help, I linked this thread to him so he can read it and check things out. One other member also said the switch on the clutch. Again thanks

 

Hello.. I had that problem but I have an A4..found out after towing and much diagnostics that it was a loose fuse in the fuse panel box that is located under the passenger side foot space. I hope this helps...

 

Same thing with my 98 about 4 months ago... R2 starter, ops check good.

 

Thanks everyone for all your help! Hopefully I'll get to the source of the problem. I'll let you all know how I make out.

 

I didn't see anyone mention the possibility of a faulty clutch switch. The original poster implied that he heard normal noises when he turned the ignition on, but doesn't say that it included the start position of the keyswitch. Check the clutch switch too.