header/mandifold bolts

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Jun 1, 2005 | 02:05 PM

chrislee2

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From: Dunstable MA

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header/mandifold bolts

Ok first off I have to say that the kooks header install is a PITA to do yourself. Lifting the motor is not enough, you really do need to push it to one side to get the headers to drop down.

Secondly, I am having trouble with 2 of the bolts that go into the heads and hold the header on. They just seem to be predospositioned to crossthread.

I have considered running a tap into the bolt hole, but I wasn't sure of the exact thread specs. If anyone has those it would help.

What can I do to keep the bolt from crossthreading?

Thanks,
Chris

Jun 1, 2005 | 02:20 PM

ROD BROWN

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From: LOS ANGELES CA.

Use care

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrislee2

Chris,if I understand your thread correctly,the holes in the header are not aligning with the holes in the head.if so,I would give the manufacturer a call.Its possible the parts were not welded correctly.i read about an other fellow having a similar problem and the manufacturer requested he send them back to the factory and he received a new ste which corrected his problem.give it a try.After all,headers are not cheap.

Jun 1, 2005 | 02:42 PM

chrislee2

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From: Dunstable MA

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I think the holes are ok... I have tried to thread the bolt while the header was away from the head. it just wants to go in crooked!

The kooks apart from the "have to remove almost every bloody thing from the engine to get them installed" issue are a work of art.

I am not going to go through the process of getting them out after exerting so much effort to get them in.

Jun 1, 2005 | 03:12 PM

nwdanner

Burning Brakes

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From: Overland Park KS

I had a similar issue (read: MAJOR FRUSTRATION) with two of the manifold bolts when I installed my LGMs; the two center bolts on the driver-side to be exact. They kept wanting to go in at an angle, regardless of my attempts to properly align them.

I eventually unbolted the entire header, let it rest out of the way, and proceeded to clean the holes extensively with WD40 & degreasing agent. After about an hour I was finally able to get the bolts to go back in without deflecting to one side. This took a lot of back-cramping patience, but it kept me from a cross-threaded situation.

In a real world, you would run a "chaser" tap into the hole first, thereby cleaning the threads, flush it out, and then start assembly of everything. Sorry I don't know the tap size!

Good luck!

Jun 1, 2005 | 03:45 PM

smittydog

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From: Florida, Tampa Bay

I just installed some cooks on my 98. Had similar problem wit both headers. I installed the rear bolt first and put it in a couple of turns. Next I hit the front bolt and used a 3/8 air ratchet to force the bolt in straight. Seemed like the trick was to leave as much room between the header flange and the block, then tighten up after all the bolts are started.

Jun 1, 2005 | 03:52 PM

chrislee2

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From: Dunstable MA

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Looks like cleaning it out, using a tap in the hole and then using a hammer (lightly) to make sure the bolt is straight before threading it in should work.

It would be nice (so I don't have to spend an hour trying to figure out the threads) if someone knew the tap I should use. Anybody?

Thanks!