4L60E Tranny flush
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 915
Likes: 1
From: UK
Didn't have a flush, but did fluid drain/refill and filter when I was back in the UK at a local automatic transmission specialist for ~$225. Mileage on the car was around 28k and it was a little over 4-years old at the time... the guy said the fluid and inside of the pan were both spotless.
Cheers,
Ian.
Cheers,
Ian.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 602
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by i_york
Didn't have a flush, but did fluid drain/refill and filter when I was back in the UK at a local automatic transmission specialist for ~$225. Mileage on the car was around 28k and it was a little over 4-years old at the time... the guy said the fluid and inside of the pan were both spotless.
Cheers,
Ian.
Cheers,
Ian.
I have been quote 100 so far but am going to check around
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 789
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From: BF Egypt Tx
Bad idea???
Originally Posted by Chrispy
EDIT: Just read a flush is a real bad idea.
Just getting a fluid/filter change
Just getting a fluid/filter change
Where did you read this???
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,607
Likes: 1
From: San Francisco CA
Yes, it's always better to leave some of the old fluid, crud and varnish inside the transmission, lines as well as the cooler in the radiator. Might be better to see if you can partially clean the filter as well 
Drifting
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,917
Likes: 18
From: Tulsa OK
Originally Posted by SFVetteman
Yes, it's always better to leave some of the old fluid, crud and varnish inside the transmission, lines as well as the cooler in the radiator. Might be better to see if you can partially clean the filter as well
I smell something...I think it's sarcasm!!!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,178
Likes: 13
From: N. County/San Diego
Originally Posted by NIGHTMARE...2001
A bad idea? I know it's believed to be a bad thing with high mileage, but I hope it's not for low milage...I just had it done one week ago($140 @ the dealership)...no problems so far.
Where did you read this???
Where did you read this???
If your milage is at 15k mi or less, then by all means FLUSH and change the FILTER and OIL in the pan, continuing to do so every 15k or less mi thereafter.
If your first service is well over 15k mi, then he recommends changing the filter and fluid in the pan ONLY.
The reason he recommends (filter & pan fluid change ONLY, no flush) after 15k+ mi is, as the tranny wears clutch material and other debries build up and will get transferred to vital areas of the tranny during the flush process, thus resulting in the type of problems I`ve seen mentioned/posted here in the forum.
Please note, I`m not an expert or technician, just passing on info that seemed to make sense.
Rick
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,076
Likes: 0
From: Machine Silver Z06 The Golden State......... Bay Area
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by R.P.
I recently read an article written by a well respected technician and this is what his rule of thumb is:
If your milage is at 15k mi or less, then by all means FLUSH and change the FILTER and OIL in the pan, continuing to do so every 15k or less mi thereafter.
If your first service is well over 15k mi, then he recommends changing the filter and fluid in the pan ONLY.
The reason he recommends (filter & pan fluid change ONLY, no flush) after 15k+ mi is, as the tranny wears clutch material and other debries build up and will get transferred to vital areas of the tranny during the flush process, thus resulting in the type of problems I`ve seen mentioned/posted here in the forum.
Please note, I`m not an expert or technician, just passing on info that seemed to make sense.
Rick
If your milage is at 15k mi or less, then by all means FLUSH and change the FILTER and OIL in the pan, continuing to do so every 15k or less mi thereafter.
If your first service is well over 15k mi, then he recommends changing the filter and fluid in the pan ONLY.
The reason he recommends (filter & pan fluid change ONLY, no flush) after 15k+ mi is, as the tranny wears clutch material and other debries build up and will get transferred to vital areas of the tranny during the flush process, thus resulting in the type of problems I`ve seen mentioned/posted here in the forum.
Please note, I`m not an expert or technician, just passing on info that seemed to make sense.
Rick
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,178
Likes: 13
From: N. County/San Diego
Originally Posted by Target Chaser
So, I take it that if you don't know the history of the car for the first 30k mi then a filter and oil change only would be recommended vs. filter, oil and flush, correct?
Again, I`m not an expert but I think the article I referred to makes good common sense.
Rick
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
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Originally Posted by SFVetteman
Yes, it's always better to leave some of the old fluid, crud and varnish inside the transmission, lines as well as the cooler in the radiator. Might be better to see if you can partially clean the filter as well
A tranny flush will force all the debris/**** through your valvebody and other components.
This is from two ASE certified mechanics I have talked with. (They both build LS1 4L60s than handle low 9's in the 1/4. I respect their opinion)
They mentioned the filter does a great job of catching crap. Drain the fluid, clean the pan, change the filter and refill.
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,607
Likes: 1
From: San Francisco CA
Have they ever used a transmission flushing machine and experienced problems or do they just think it would cause problems? Here’s a guy that’s been doing it since at least ’96 and still swears by it today:
http://www.garage-pak.com/pat-goss-w...nsmissions.cfm
http://www.patgosscarworld.com/modul...d=0&page_id=30
http://www.patgosscarworld.com/modul...d=0&page_id=27
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn...040307357.html
http://www.garage-pak.com/pat-goss-w...nsmissions.cfm
http://www.patgosscarworld.com/modul...d=0&page_id=30
http://www.patgosscarworld.com/modul...d=0&page_id=27
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn...040307357.html
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 789
Likes: 0
From: BF Egypt Tx
Originally Posted by Target Chaser
So, I take it that if you don't know the history of the car for the first 30k mi then a filter and oil change only would be recommended vs. filter, oil and flush, correct?
When my 2000 SS Camaro A4 w/bolt-ons, was just passed 50,000 miles, I went ahead with it, based on the above dealer information, and now nearing 100,000 miles I still have no problems or slipping.
If it's been driven really hard, I don't know if I would take a chance on it, but I'm a little gun-shy too though after replacing three trannys that were never flushed.
Plan on doing just the oil/filter change next time though, on the SS, but the vette, I'm probably gonna do every 15,000-30,000 miles.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 14,406
Likes: 3
From: Cypress TX
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18
It just doesn't make sense to do a pan service on the trans. You get only about 1/3 of the old trans fluid out - the fluid in the torque converter, cooler lines and coolant tank in the radiator doesn't drain out. It gets mixed with the new fluid. Let's see, 1/3 new fluid and 2/3 old fluid - that just doesn't make sense to me.
I've been doing trans flushes on my 99 Yukon and never had a problem. It now has 228,000 miles and is still going strong. (My Vette is a 6 speed)
Just be sure your shop doesn't use a solvent based cleaning chemical and you'll be fine. My shop uses products by Wynns.
I've been doing trans flushes on my 99 Yukon and never had a problem. It now has 228,000 miles and is still going strong. (My Vette is a 6 speed)
Just be sure your shop doesn't use a solvent based cleaning chemical and you'll be fine. My shop uses products by Wynns.
Last edited by Bills Z06; Jun 8, 2005 at 06:16 AM.
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It depends on a couple things.
1) If you have an aftermarket torque converter, especially one with a carbon based clutch
2) If you race the car alot and have some clutch/band wear
If you have a stock converter, bone stock trans and aren't beating the **** out of the car you should be fine
1) If you have an aftermarket torque converter, especially one with a carbon based clutch
2) If you race the car alot and have some clutch/band wear
If you have a stock converter, bone stock trans and aren't beating the **** out of the car you should be fine
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,607
Likes: 1
From: San Francisco CA
Hmmm…if you use a high stall converter, which generates more heat that tends to break down the fluid and cause varnish and/or race the car a lot and have increased wear, which means more particles suspended in the fluid then you only want to change some of the fluid compared to bone stock and easy driving then it’s ok to change it all.
I guess that means if the car is race only, it might be best not to change any of the fluid.
I guess that means if the car is race only, it might be best not to change any of the fluid.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 789
Likes: 0
From: BF Egypt Tx
Originally Posted by SFVetteman
Hmmm…if you use a high stall converter, which generates more heat that tends to break down the fluid and cause varnish and/or race the car a lot and have increased wear, which means more particles suspended in the fluid then you only want to change some of the fluid compared to bone stock and easy driving then it’s ok to change it all.
I guess that means if the car is race only, it might be best not to change any of the fluid.
I guess that means if the car is race only, it might be best not to change any of the fluid.
