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Ron Davis radiator vs. Dewitts

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Old Jun 11, 2005 | 11:26 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
As far as putting the EOC on the left (inlet) tank, I would like to try it! But I need your help. You can see from the ron davis photo above that inlet tanks are much narrower than outlet tanks and you would have to use outlet tanks on both ends to have the cooler on the left. This would also be required for cars with automatics that wanted two coolers (EOC and TOC). I remember when we prototyped the first C5 car here that a wire harness or something ran by the inlet tank and there was some extra clearance for a larger end tank but I need someone to comfirm just how much space is really there.
Tom,

If you'd like some help prototyping/fitting the EOC on the driver side, I'd be happy to help. I already have one of your direct fit radiators and I recently purchased an engine oil cooler adapter block from Xtreme -- so I could provide before/after data of how coolant temps and oil temps are affected by this modification. My engine oil cooler block is setup for -10 plumbing so I could also provide data on what, if any pressure drop exists with the #6 SAE fittings.

Is there any chance you could fit a larger EOC in the radiator? The reason I ask is because the EOCs I have here at the house and have seen from LPE are relatively large (8x10x1.5, for example). I'm trying to get my car ready for some road racing and auto crossing so it's crucial that I can keep my oil at a reasonable temperature, even though my turbos will try to keep my oil at an unreasonable temperature
Old Jun 11, 2005 | 10:09 PM
  #42  
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Like the the other guys I am ready to order...
Old Jun 12, 2005 | 01:55 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by B Taylor
Vortech C5 - what temp thermostat do you have? Does your Dewitt also have the oil cooler? I need the level of confidence you have sitting in traffic at 100+ degree temps in Phoenix.
I used the stock thermostat as recommended by Vortech and Dewitts...
The problem stems from the stock radiator itself. It is not big enough to cool off 500+h.p. cars. I don't even know how it cools the stock engine. The stock radiator is so small that it looks like it belongs in a tiny grocery getter when you take it out. The MUCH bigger capacity radiator will allow the heat to disipate MUCH easier...
I did not get an oil cooler. By doing a ton of research, I was told by very reliable sources that the additional cooling from the radiator would automatically keep my oil temp levels down (cooler engine=cooler oil). Good luck...
Old Jun 12, 2005 | 03:13 PM
  #44  
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How difficult to replace the radiator? Anyone have picture diagram on how to replace? Tom's radiator might be what I need to cure my temperature problem
Old Jun 13, 2005 | 08:49 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
The weight is 9lbs for the original and 13 lbs for the Direct Fit

As far as ordering goes, I'll create a new part number for this and put them on our website. You can then just place the order "shopping cart" style.
Tom,

Is this link up yet? I looked over the weekend and did not notice it. Maybe I overlooked it. Can you post the link here and / or the part number. Specifically I am looking for the radiator and engine oil cooler for a 2001 6-speed.

Thanks,

Sean
Old Jun 13, 2005 | 07:35 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Sportsdude
How difficult to replace the radiator? Anyone have picture diagram on how to replace? Tom's radiator might be what I need to cure my temperature problem

We have a download article from Corvette fever that covers it. Here's a link Twice As Ice Article
Old Jun 13, 2005 | 07:48 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by R6_C5_ML430
Tom,

Is this link up yet? I looked over the weekend and did not notice it. Maybe I overlooked it. Can you post the link here and / or the part number. Specifically I am looking for the radiator and engine oil cooler for a 2001 6-speed.

Thanks,

Sean

Ok, I have a part number posted (A97E) for the radiator with the engine oil cooler (EOC) only. That means it does not have a trans cooler, so if you want that too we have to develop it with larger tanks on both sides. The deliver says 2-3 weeks only because it won't let me put a longer delivery in there. I think it's going to be 4-5 weeks before I get in the new coolers so if you order one please don't post a rave on how long it took to get. Here's the part A97E (EOC)
Old Jun 13, 2005 | 07:58 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by diynoob
Tom,

If you'd like some help prototyping/fitting the EOC on the driver side, I'd be happy to help.
diynoob,

The first thing we need to find out is "how much room is on the left side"? If you could pop the cover off the top and give me some measurements as to how much the radiator can grow, that would give us an idea on what we can do.

Our present inlet tank is about 1" deep but it has a "hump" on top where the inlet tube welds in. Would the tank fit if it was the same depth as the hump only all the way down to the bottom? Can we add more than the hump dimension? Remember, this is based on the radiator sitting right where it is, I don't want to modify anything else to make this work. I just need to know how much empty space is on the drive side of the radiator and since you already have one of ours, your the best source for this info. td
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Old Jun 13, 2005 | 10:20 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
Ok, I have a part number posted (A97E) for the radiator with the engine oil cooler (EOC) only. That means it does not have a trans cooler, so if you want that too we have to develop it with larger tanks on both sides. The deliver says 2-3 weeks only because it won't let me put a longer delivery in there. I think it's going to be 4-5 weeks before I get in the new coolers so if you order one please don't post a rave on how long it took to get. Here's the part A97E (EOC)

Tom,

What is the outside time frame we are looking at here? I can handle six weeks no problem because of the build I have going on right now, but not 10 - 12. Please send me an honest assessment and I will proceed accordingly. This is your top of the line C5 radiator with an engine oil cooler added that will work with a 2001 six speed in the factory location, correct?

What else is needed to hook it up (EOC) and does it come with the radiator?

Thanks,

Sean

Last edited by R6_C5_CLS55; Jun 13, 2005 at 10:22 PM.
Old Jun 13, 2005 | 10:59 PM
  #50  
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I could use some extra cooling!
Old Jun 14, 2005 | 07:39 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by R6_C5_ML430
Tom,

What is the outside time frame we are looking at here? I can handle six weeks no problem because of the build I have going on right now, but not 10 - 12. Please send me an honest assessment and I will proceed accordingly. This is your top of the line C5 radiator with an engine oil cooler added that will work with a 2001 six speed in the factory location, correct?

What else is needed to hook it up (EOC) and does it come with the radiator?

Thanks,

Sean
I think we will actually beat six weeks but I'd rather say six and it turnout to be four instead of the other way around. The factory that is making them is going to send me about six "pre-production" coolers for my approval and these could be used on the first couple orders. So I feel real good about saying we can do it for you.

As far as the hook up goes, we need to work on that. I didn't really want to get into the adapters, fittings and hose kits but I think we're going to have to in order to sell the radiators. Most of the adapters and kits are pretty expensive and I don't own a C5 of my own to play with. Most of the C5 racer shops like LG, A&A, and Ron Davis have kits you can buy, and soon we will too.
Old Jun 14, 2005 | 07:40 PM
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Tom,

I have a couple of questions.

I probably won't hook up the oil cooler right away. I think that you said that the fitting size was -6AN. I should be able to just get a couple of -6AN caps and cap off the fittings, true?

Will you be offering an installation kit for the oil cooler?

Thanks.
Old Jun 14, 2005 | 11:32 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
diynoob,

The first thing we need to find out is "how much room is on the left side"? If you could pop the cover off the top and give me some measurements as to how much the radiator can grow, that would give us an idea on what we can do.
Tom,

Just checked this out tonight while working on upgrading my fuel system. It looks like the hump on the driver side sticks out over the frame about 1/4 inch. If you were to follow the hump all the way down, it would not fit. I'd say you have a safe 1/2 inch you could come out on the existing radiator as coming out 3/4 inch would guarantee contact between the radiator and the frame.

Let me know if you want any pictures or other measurements.

Old Jun 14, 2005 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by diynoob
Tom,

Just checked this out tonight while working on upgrading my fuel system. It looks like the hump on the driver side sticks out over the frame about 1/4 inch. If you were to follow the hump all the way down, it would not fit. I'd say you have a safe 1/2 inch you could come out on the existing radiator as coming out 3/4 inch would guarantee contact between the radiator and the frame.

Let me know if you want any pictures or other measurements.

If you look at our outlet tank (see above) you can see that it is tapered down starting at about 4" from the bottom. If we flipped this tank over to the left side would that clear the frame?
Old Jun 15, 2005 | 03:22 AM
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the XMS engineering oil cooler block has -8 fittings, not -10.
Old Jun 15, 2005 | 10:30 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
I think we will actually beat six weeks but I'd rather say six and it turnout to be four instead of the other way around. The factory that is making them is going to send me about six "pre-production" coolers for my approval and these could be used on the first couple orders. So I feel real good about saying we can do it for you.

As far as the hook up goes, we need to work on that. I didn't really want to get into the adapters, fittings and hose kits but I think we're going to have to in order to sell the radiators. Most of the adapters and kits are pretty expensive and I don't own a C5 of my own to play with. Most of the C5 racer shops like LG, A&A, and Ron Davis have kits you can buy, and soon we will too.
Tom,

If I called A&A or Ron Davis or one of the others you mentioned about getting a kit to hook up your radiator with integrated oil cooler, what specifically do I need to ask them for (lines lengths and types, fitting sizes, etc.)?

--Sean
Old Jun 15, 2005 | 08:12 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by R6_C5_ML430
Tom,

If I called A&A or Ron Davis or one of the others you mentioned about getting a kit to hook up your radiator with integrated oil cooler, what specifically do I need to ask them for (lines lengths and types, fitting sizes, etc.)?

--Sean
The kits typically consist of an adapter, hoses, and the fittings. Since there are a few different companies doing this a few different ways, the fittings and hose sizes can vary. I can supply the radiator with the fittings installed for any size AN hose connection, but I think that 1/2" hose with #8 AN ends is plenty large enough. The complete Xtreme kit is something like $479? and the adapter is very big. I would probably buy the LG adapter for $99. This will give you a block of aluminum with #8 sae o'ring ports. Then, measure up what you need in the way of hoses and go to a local hydraulic (parker fittings dealer) store and buy the hoses you need. These might cost another $150 and your done.

I'm working with Andy at A & A in trying to put together a nice kit that we can simply supply everythng at an affordable price but that's going to take a little more time.

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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 12:39 AM
  #58  
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Just ordered my Dewitt radiator. I'm ready to get cooled.
Old Jun 16, 2005 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ramcharger
the XMS engineering oil cooler block has -8 fittings, not -10.
You're half right. You can order a block with either -8 or -10. The -10 block is not on the site, but give them a call and they should have a few. I have a -10 block sitting at my house right now.
Old Jun 16, 2005 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
If you look at our outlet tank (see above) you can see that it is tapered down starting at about 4" from the bottom. If we flipped this tank over to the left side would that clear the frame?
I'll try and check it out tonight. I am assuming that you're talking about flip-flopping the tanks so that the overall width is still the same?



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