Problems lowering... HELP!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 0
From: Branchburg, NJ
Problems lowering... HELP!
Okay, got the rear lowered to about 3 threads showing 
But when I went to lower the front driver side, I stripped the bolt!
I used vice grips and everything tryin to turn that damn rusty thing after it stripped, but to no avail.
What do I do now?!
But when I went to lower the front driver side, I stripped the bolt!
I used vice grips and everything tryin to turn that damn rusty thing after it stripped, but to no avail.
What do I do now?!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8,472
Likes: 38
From: Houston TX
St. Jude Donor '11
Jack up just the spring, not the a-arm but just the spring. This relieves the pressure on the bolt. You should be able to turn it very easily even though it's stripped. You want to turn CW as mentioned above.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 753
Likes: 1
From: Oceanside CA
Are you turning the bolt clockwise or counter clockwise? It is threaded oppisite if I am not mistaken so the "Righty Tighty / Lefty Loosey" does not apply. Right turns loosen, left turns tighten. I heard somewhere do not use any kind of WD-40 or PB lubricants as it could have adverse affects on the fiberglass spring. As far as being stripped, might try those Craftsman bolt stripper sockets. Good Luck! 
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 2
From: Cape Coral FL
You have to put a LOT of upward pressure on the spring to get it to move. It just won't move with the spring sprung 
. What I did was get a second jack and a block of wood and almost lifted the car off the othe jack. The bolt could almost turn by hand then. If you stripped the bolt the only recourse is to do the 2 jack thing and completely remove it and replace it. The problem is that GM doesn't sell the bolt seperately. You have to buy it on the spring. There may be a member that has one or 2 they have removed or changed the front spring that can sell you one. If you can get the pressure off the bolt you may be able to turn it enough by hand, or with a vise grips (since it is toast already) and get it to the proper height. Once there you will probably be ok. It is a standard thread, you have to turn it so it comes up into the spring, the opposite of the rear springs.
. What I did was get a second jack and a block of wood and almost lifted the car off the othe jack. The bolt could almost turn by hand then. If you stripped the bolt the only recourse is to do the 2 jack thing and completely remove it and replace it. The problem is that GM doesn't sell the bolt seperately. You have to buy it on the spring. There may be a member that has one or 2 they have removed or changed the front spring that can sell you one. If you can get the pressure off the bolt you may be able to turn it enough by hand, or with a vise grips (since it is toast already) and get it to the proper height. Once there you will probably be ok. It is a standard thread, you have to turn it so it comes up into the spring, the opposite of the rear springs.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 0
From: Branchburg, NJ
Hmmm.... well the diy's on Z06vette.com said ccw, so that's the way I turned it and proceeded to strip it 
I also tried jacking up on the leaf spring, but that didn't seem to help much... in fact it was actually lifting the car up more.... I guess I'll just try jacking the spring up higher
I also tried jacking up on the leaf spring, but that didn't seem to help much... in fact it was actually lifting the car up more.... I guess I'll just try jacking the spring up higher
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 2
From: Cape Coral FL
Originally Posted by C5 ChemE
Hmmm.... well the diy's on Z06vette.com said ccw, so that's the way I turned it and proceeded to strip it
I also tried jacking up on the leaf spring, but that didn't seem to help much... in fact it was actually lifting the car up more.... I guess I'll just try jacking the spring up higher
I also tried jacking up on the leaf spring, but that didn't seem to help much... in fact it was actually lifting the car up more.... I guess I'll just try jacking the spring up higher
You have to experiment to find the 'sweet spot'.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,898
Likes: 5
From: Plainfield, IL
yeah as others have said you MUST put pressure on the spring. Set your car on jackstands then use the jack and put pressure on the spring until the car actually lifts off the jackstand. The you will find you can practically turn the bolt by hand ;-)
Also, IMO I would actually turn the rears a few more spins. The first time I did it I left 2 threads remaining and it didnt seem to bring it down much, now I left no threads and cut one bushing off the front. Sits perfect not too low but gets rid of all that nasty wheel gap.
Hope this helps.
JT
Also, IMO I would actually turn the rears a few more spins. The first time I did it I left 2 threads remaining and it didnt seem to bring it down much, now I left no threads and cut one bushing off the front. Sits perfect not too low but gets rid of all that nasty wheel gap.
Hope this helps.
JT
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,329
Likes: 30
From: USA
Chem,
As you are looking down on the bolt it should be turned counterclockwise to lower the car. It doesn't matter which way you were trying to turn it, it wouldn't turn.
It is NOT reverse threaded.
First get some penetrating oil on the threads. If some gets on the spring, wipe it off.
The problem is you need to get the bushing to release from the lower control arm. They get stuck there. Jack up the spring and wedge a screwdriver under the bushing and get if off the control arm. You will hear it pop.
If you still can't turn the bolt, get vice grips or channel locks around the metal part of the bushing under the spring. You have a lot bigger area to clamp onto.
It will work. I have done it.
When you get the bolt to turn there will be no need to remove it to replace it.
Dave
As you are looking down on the bolt it should be turned counterclockwise to lower the car. It doesn't matter which way you were trying to turn it, it wouldn't turn.
It is NOT reverse threaded.
First get some penetrating oil on the threads. If some gets on the spring, wipe it off.
The problem is you need to get the bushing to release from the lower control arm. They get stuck there. Jack up the spring and wedge a screwdriver under the bushing and get if off the control arm. You will hear it pop.
If you still can't turn the bolt, get vice grips or channel locks around the metal part of the bushing under the spring. You have a lot bigger area to clamp onto.
It will work. I have done it.
When you get the bolt to turn there will be no need to remove it to replace it.
Dave
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,253
Likes: 222
From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
thanks dave, my thoughts exactly, this reverse thread must be urban legend and the key is to remove pressure from the spring, if anyone is in CT and wants to stop by I'll lower their car 
and the key is to remove pressure from the spring, if anyone is in CT and wants to stop by I'll lower their car
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,285
Likes: 16
From: Nashville TN
I agree completely. they are not reverse threaded. turning the bolt CCW will lower the car. You must first relieve the spring pressure. Are the bolt threads really stripped or will the bolt just not turn. Jack up the spring and put some vice grips of the bolt to turn it. Soak it in penetrating fluid first. If you need another bolt/bushing, I think harbar (forum vendor) sells a replacement.
Originally Posted by corvette dave
Chem,
As you are looking down on the bolt it should be turned counterclockwise to lower the car. It doesn't matter which way you were trying to turn it, it wouldn't turn.
It is NOT reverse threaded.
First get some penetrating oil on the threads. If some gets on the spring, wipe it off.
The problem is you need to get the bushing to release from the lower control arm. They get stuck there. Jack up the spring and wedge a screwdriver under the bushing and get if off the control arm. You will hear it pop.
If you still can't turn the bolt, get vice grips or channel locks around the metal part of the bushing under the spring. You have a lot bigger area to clamp onto.
It will work. I have done it.
When you get the bolt to turn there will be no need to remove it to replace it.
Dave
As you are looking down on the bolt it should be turned counterclockwise to lower the car. It doesn't matter which way you were trying to turn it, it wouldn't turn.
It is NOT reverse threaded.
First get some penetrating oil on the threads. If some gets on the spring, wipe it off.
The problem is you need to get the bushing to release from the lower control arm. They get stuck there. Jack up the spring and wedge a screwdriver under the bushing and get if off the control arm. You will hear it pop.
If you still can't turn the bolt, get vice grips or channel locks around the metal part of the bushing under the spring. You have a lot bigger area to clamp onto.
It will work. I have done it.
When you get the bolt to turn there will be no need to remove it to replace it.
Dave
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 0
From: Branchburg, NJ
Alright, well round two went just as well as round one... nothing I'm doing will get that bolt to move. 
I tried the other side to see if I could get the technique down... but that didn't work either
Anybody willing to take a trip out to Long Valley to help a fellow CF clutz out?
I tried the other side to see if I could get the technique down... but that didn't work either
Anybody willing to take a trip out to Long Valley to help a fellow CF clutz out?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 0
From: Branchburg, NJ
Originally Posted by corvette dave
Did you try oiling the threads and getting vice grips on the metal part of the bushing?
Last edited by C5 ChemE; Jun 9, 2005 at 07:54 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,382
Likes: 250
Wehn you guys lower nobody seems to worry about maintaining the OEM chassis rake. All anyone does is lower for looks. This can be very bad for your car's handling no??? This is a No-No in racing. Chassis rake tunes the cars' suspension for over/under steer. It may not make much difference on the street until you make a panic manuever or take your car to the DE trackday and find you get beat by 185hp hondas because your car gets all out of shape due to funky balance. Maybe vette's aren't senstive to rake changes but my midengine racecar feels 1/2" rake changes.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,329
Likes: 30
From: USA
Billy,
You are right.
I keep saying over and over that there is so much more than just turning some bolts when you lower any car. Few listen.
You hear people say on this forum to loosen the rear nuts so that 2 threads are showing. That is just wrong. What if there were 8 threads showing on one side and 12 threads showing on the other side before you adjusted them. You have now changed the factory ride/trim height differently side to side. This is a no-no!
Even GM says to count threads and change equally side to side. This way you keep the same relative ride/trim height and also keep the correct rake.
Then people will lower their car 1" and not have the alignment checked.
What if I told them that the caster, camber and tow settings are now all changed from how the factory aligned the car? They do change after lowering! It is very foolish not to have the alignment checked after lowering. Alignment is a whole different story.
I feel better now. Maybe I will do a write-up sometime on the subject.
Dave
You are right.
I keep saying over and over that there is so much more than just turning some bolts when you lower any car. Few listen.
You hear people say on this forum to loosen the rear nuts so that 2 threads are showing. That is just wrong. What if there were 8 threads showing on one side and 12 threads showing on the other side before you adjusted them. You have now changed the factory ride/trim height differently side to side. This is a no-no!
Even GM says to count threads and change equally side to side. This way you keep the same relative ride/trim height and also keep the correct rake.
Then people will lower their car 1" and not have the alignment checked.
What if I told them that the caster, camber and tow settings are now all changed from how the factory aligned the car? They do change after lowering! It is very foolish not to have the alignment checked after lowering. Alignment is a whole different story.
I feel better now. Maybe I will do a write-up sometime on the subject.
Dave
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 0
From: Branchburg, NJ
Well thanks for that tidbit.... I'll be sure to get an alignment...
IF I EVER GET THE FRONT LOWERED THAT IS!!!!!!
You're telling me that NOBODY else has had the problems I'm having?
YES, the bushing is unstuck from the lower control arm
YES, I've soaked the thing in penetrating oil
NO, I am not able to get vice grips or channel locks in there
YES, I am putting a LOT of upward pressure on the spring-
enough to lift the car off the stands and almost max out the jack itself
YES I am (trying) to turn the bolt CCW looking down on it
NONE of that is helping... anything else??
IF I EVER GET THE FRONT LOWERED THAT IS!!!!!!
You're telling me that NOBODY else has had the problems I'm having?
YES, the bushing is unstuck from the lower control arm
YES, I've soaked the thing in penetrating oil
NO, I am not able to get vice grips or channel locks in there
YES, I am putting a LOT of upward pressure on the spring-
enough to lift the car off the stands and almost max out the jack itself
YES I am (trying) to turn the bolt CCW looking down on it
NONE of that is helping... anything else??
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,285
Likes: 16
From: Nashville TN
It sounds like you are doing everything correctly. When you jack up the spring, does the spring lift up and off the lower control arm. It should, so if not that is your problem. However it sounds like the bolt has siezed in the spring. I would try banging it with a hammer or whatever I could get in there and try to free it up. The next option is to put some heat on it, but I am not sure that would be wise. I do not know how the leaf spring material will react to extreme heat. I use a 1/4" ratchet and socket to turn the bolt, it will fit in there nicely. You might also try putting your vicegrips on the bottom side around the bushing. Just be careful, when the spring is jacked up it is under pressure. Worse case is you remove the spring, not a big deal, and take it to a machins shop and get the bolt cut off and drilled out.
Good luck.
Good luck.