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I have a 2004vert Just installed kooks headers, B&B builets with x pipe and Vararam. Had it dyno is putting out 330 hp Whats the next mod you people that have been there before would recomend?? What about a mild cam. I don't race the car but I like to feel the hp. Thanks for any help. I drive daily and around town and interstate.
Before you even think about installing a cam. You need to get rid of those 2.73 gears and the stock converter. A high stall T/C and 3.42 or 3.73 gears will give your car a tremendous performance boost. You need a T/C and gears to get the best performance and good driveability with a bigger cam.
Since you don't plan on racing, the Yank SS3200 and 3.42 gears would be a great street combo. Excluding nitrous nothing will give you the same performance boost as a T/C and gears in an A4.
in my 99 frc, i have a blackwing, kooks LTs, comp cam 224/224 115 lsa, slp loudmouth, and a 160 thermostat and I dynoed at 393 hp. pretty much the same as your setup but with a mild cam. gears however would be a more bang for buck mod then a cam.
gears w/ install = about $1000
cam, springs, pushrods, retainers w/ install = about $1500-1700
in my 99 frc, i have a blackwing, kooks LTs, comp cam 224/224 115 lsa, slp loudmouth, and a 160 thermostat and I dynoed at 393 hp. pretty much the same as your setup but with a mild cam. gears however would be a more bang for buck mod then a cam.
gears w/ install = about $1000
cam, springs, pushrods, retainers w/ install = about $1500-1700
You say that you have 393 RWHP with just LTs, a 224 cam and a 160 thermostat?
Never! I really dont believe that.
If you have a M6 you should be around 360RWHP.
You say that you have 393 RWHP with just LTs, a 224 cam and a 160 thermostat?
Never! I really dont believe that.
If you have a M6 you should be around 360RWHP.
Those numbers are way inflated if we are talking about rwhp. The consensus from dealers seems to be that if you go any larger than about a 224/224 cam you would certainly lose some driveability by retaining stock gears and TC. A cam like this combined with your bolts ons should put you at around 360rwhp. No need to upgrade gears/tc for a cam this mild.
Agree. With stock heads, Stealth II cam (224/220/581/116), kooks and LS6 manifold, I tuned at 365 thru stock Cats and mufflers. Hard to believe there is 30 more HP somewhere with stock heads.....
Those numbers are way inflated if we are talking about rwhp. The consensus from dealers seems to be that if you go any larger than about a 224/224 cam you would certainly lose some driveability by retaining stock gears and TC. A cam like this combined with your bolts ons should put you at around 360rwhp. No need to upgrade gears/tc for a cam this mild.
I disagree, you can get away with running the stock T/C with a 224/224 or even a larger cam. However you won't get anything like the best performance or good driveability with that cam with the low stalling stock T/C. If you're going to go to the trouble and expense of swapping cams. It makes no sense to cripple your cars performance by running the stock T/C. Not to mention the better driveability you will have with a higher stalling T/C.
I agree with the gears and TC suggestion. When I had an 01 auto, I went to Chris at ECS and he suggested gears and torque converter. I must say it was one of the best mods! It really woke up the car and you will not regret it. Then do the cam and you will be finished!
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I disagree, you can get away with running the stock T/C with a 224/224 or even a larger cam. However you won't get anything like the best performance or good driveability with that cam with the low stalling stock T/C. If you're going to go to the trouble and expense of swapping cams. It makes no sense to cripple your cars performance by running the stock T/C. Not to mention the better driveability you will have with a higher stalling T/C.
I have a TR 224 cam with stock T/C.
Drives absolutely like stock! No need for an aftermarket T/C.
I dont want it, because I never will drag race the car.
I have a TR 224 cam with stock T/C.
Drives absolutely like stock! No need for an aftermarket T/C.
I dont want it, because I never will drag race the car.
As I said earlier you can get away with running a stock T/C with a 224/224 cam. However you are leaving a ton of performance on the table by running a stock T/C. Whether you plan on racing or not a T/C will greatly improve your cars performance from a standstill or a roll. IMO it makes no sense to do an internal mod like installing a bigger cam. If you are going to have a very hard time running with internally stock bolt on cars with a high stall T/C.
You say that you have 393 RWHP with just LTs, a 224 cam and a 160 thermostat?
Never! I really dont believe that.
If you have a M6 you should be around 360RWHP.
You forgot that he has SLP loudmouths......those are straight through, non-mufflers. That would add a few. I don't think it would add 33.
That does seem pretty high for not having an LS-6 intake, vararam, LS-1 edit, ported throttle body or heads. But I'm easy, so I just take the guys word.
You say that you have 393 RWHP with just LTs, a 224 cam and a 160 thermostat?
Never! I really dont believe that.
If you have a M6 you should be around 360RWHP.
As I said earlier you can get away with running a stock T/C with a 224/224 cam. However you are leaving a ton of performance on the table by running a stock T/C. Whether you plan on racing or not a T/C will greatly improve your cars performance from a standstill or a roll. IMO it makes no sense to do an internal mod like installing a bigger cam. If you are going to have a very hard time running with internally stock bolt on cars with a high stall T/C.
Before you even think about installing a cam. You need to get rid of those 2.73 gears and the stock converter. A high stall T/C and 3.42 or 3.73 gears will give your car a tremendous performance boost. You need a T/C and gears to get the best performance and good driveability with a bigger cam.
Since you don't plan on racing, the Yank SS3200 and 3.42 gears would be a great street combo. Excluding nitrous nothing will give you the same performance boost as a T/C and gears in an A4.
As I said earlier you can get away with running a stock T/C with a 224/224 cam. However you are leaving a ton of performance on the table by running a stock T/C. Whether you plan on racing or not a T/C will greatly improve your cars performance from a standstill or a roll. IMO it makes no sense to do an internal mod like installing a bigger cam. If you are going to have a very hard time running with internally stock bolt on cars with a high stall T/C.
But it just gives you better performance from a roll if you at a really low speed. If you're running 60mph and get WOT it wont give you better performance I think. Or am I wrong?
But it just gives you better performance from a roll if you at a really low speed. If you're running 60mph and get WOT it wont give you better performance I think. Or am I wrong?
You are wrong. A high stall T/C will get rid of the dead spots you get in acceleration. Like when you go WOT at 35-45 MPH. In fact a good T/C will give you better acceleration at any speed than the stock T/C.
The stock T/C is designed for economy not performance. It is designed to help keep your engine in the lower part of the power band for better economy. When you install a bigger cam like the 224/224 the last thing you want is a converter that makes it more difficult to get into the upper part of the power band quickly where the bigger cam is making its power.
A high stall T/C also has much higher shift extensions than the stock T/C. Every time your tranny shifts at WOT a high stall T/C does not allow your RPM to fall back as low in the next gear as the stock T/C does. Your engine is making more HP at higher RPM so your acceleration will be faster in the next gear because of the higher shift extensions. Because of its smaller size a high stall T/C can weigh up to 23 lbs. less than the stock T/C. A lighter T/C will help your engine rev faster promoting faster acceleration. Not to mention the fact that you are getting rid 23 lbs. of unsprung weight.