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Cam Question?????

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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 09:50 PM
  #1  
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Default Cam Question?????

I have a 2004vert Just installed kooks headers, B&B builets with x pipe and Vararam. Had it dyno is putting out 330 hp Whats the next mod you people that have been there before would recomend?? What about a mild cam. I don't race the car but I like to feel the hp. Thanks for any help. I drive daily and around town and interstate.
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 11:22 PM
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Before you even think about installing a cam. You need to get rid of those 2.73 gears and the stock converter. A high stall T/C and 3.42 or 3.73 gears will give your car a tremendous performance boost. You need a T/C and gears to get the best performance and good driveability with a bigger cam.

Since you don't plan on racing, the Yank SS3200 and 3.42 gears would be a great street combo. Excluding nitrous nothing will give you the same performance boost as a T/C and gears in an A4.

Last edited by Mitch C; Jun 17, 2005 at 06:04 AM.
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 02:00 AM
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in my 99 frc, i have a blackwing, kooks LTs, comp cam 224/224 115 lsa, slp loudmouth, and a 160 thermostat and I dynoed at 393 hp. pretty much the same as your setup but with a mild cam. gears however would be a more bang for buck mod then a cam.

gears w/ install = about $1000
cam, springs, pushrods, retainers w/ install = about $1500-1700
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by White99FRC
in my 99 frc, i have a blackwing, kooks LTs, comp cam 224/224 115 lsa, slp loudmouth, and a 160 thermostat and I dynoed at 393 hp. pretty much the same as your setup but with a mild cam. gears however would be a more bang for buck mod then a cam.

gears w/ install = about $1000
cam, springs, pushrods, retainers w/ install = about $1500-1700
You say that you have 393 RWHP with just LTs, a 224 cam and a 160 thermostat?
Never! I really dont believe that.
If you have a M6 you should be around 360RWHP.
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by donscheffler
You say that you have 393 RWHP with just LTs, a 224 cam and a 160 thermostat?
Never! I really dont believe that.
If you have a M6 you should be around 360RWHP.
Those numbers are way inflated if we are talking about rwhp. The consensus from dealers seems to be that if you go any larger than about a 224/224 cam you would certainly lose some driveability by retaining stock gears and TC. A cam like this combined with your bolts ons should put you at around 360rwhp. No need to upgrade gears/tc for a cam this mild.
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 02:55 PM
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Agree. With stock heads, Stealth II cam (224/220/581/116), kooks and LS6 manifold, I tuned at 365 thru stock Cats and mufflers. Hard to believe there is 30 more HP somewhere with stock heads.....
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Icemanskis
Those numbers are way inflated if we are talking about rwhp. The consensus from dealers seems to be that if you go any larger than about a 224/224 cam you would certainly lose some driveability by retaining stock gears and TC. A cam like this combined with your bolts ons should put you at around 360rwhp. No need to upgrade gears/tc for a cam this mild.

I disagree, you can get away with running the stock T/C with a 224/224 or even a larger cam. However you won't get anything like the best performance or good driveability with that cam with the low stalling stock T/C. If you're going to go to the trouble and expense of swapping cams. It makes no sense to cripple your cars performance by running the stock T/C. Not to mention the better driveability you will have with a higher stalling T/C.

Last edited by Mitch C; Jun 18, 2005 at 03:45 AM.
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 06:23 AM
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Gears would be a good move.

For a DD cam, UD pulley and dyno info check my sig. Real pleased with streetablilty and performance.
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 08:31 AM
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Default Another vote for gears and TC!

I agree with the gears and TC suggestion. When I had an 01 auto, I went to Chris at ECS and he suggested gears and torque converter. I must say it was one of the best mods! It really woke up the car and you will not regret it. Then do the cam and you will be finished!
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Mitch C
[/B]
I disagree, you can get away with running the stock T/C with a 224/224 or even a larger cam. However you won't get anything like the best performance or good driveability with that cam with the low stalling stock T/C. If you're going to go to the trouble and expense of swapping cams. It makes no sense to cripple your cars performance by running the stock T/C. Not to mention the better driveability you will have with a higher stalling T/C.
I have a TR 224 cam with stock T/C.
Drives absolutely like stock! No need for an aftermarket T/C.

I dont want it, because I never will drag race the car.
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by donscheffler
I have a TR 224 cam with stock T/C.
Drives absolutely like stock! No need for an aftermarket T/C.

I dont want it, because I never will drag race the car.

As I said earlier you can get away with running a stock T/C with a 224/224 cam. However you are leaving a ton of performance on the table by running a stock T/C. Whether you plan on racing or not a T/C will greatly improve your cars performance from a standstill or a roll. IMO it makes no sense to do an internal mod like installing a bigger cam. If you are going to have a very hard time running with internally stock bolt on cars with a high stall T/C.

Last edited by Mitch C; Jun 18, 2005 at 11:33 AM.
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by donscheffler
You say that you have 393 RWHP with just LTs, a 224 cam and a 160 thermostat?
Never! I really dont believe that.
If you have a M6 you should be around 360RWHP.
You forgot that he has SLP loudmouths......those are straight through, non-mufflers. That would add a few. I don't think it would add 33.

That does seem pretty high for not having an LS-6 intake, vararam, LS-1 edit, ported throttle body or heads. But I'm easy, so I just take the guys word.

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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by donscheffler
You say that you have 393 RWHP with just LTs, a 224 cam and a 160 thermostat?
Never! I really dont believe that.
If you have a M6 you should be around 360RWHP.

See sig
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 01:04 PM
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i did forget to mention that the car was tuned after install. i have dyno sheets if anyone wants to see.
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 01:30 PM
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Give DTE a call. They will custom grind to your requirements. The dyno sheets I have seen on their cams are pretty good.
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 05:12 PM
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Yes post a dyno sheet please...
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Mitch C
As I said earlier you can get away with running a stock T/C with a 224/224 cam. However you are leaving a ton of performance on the table by running a stock T/C. Whether you plan on racing or not a T/C will greatly improve your cars performance from a standstill or a roll. IMO it makes no sense to do an internal mod like installing a bigger cam. If you are going to have a very hard time running with internally stock bolt on cars with a high stall T/C.

When will people get thier through thier heads?!
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Mitch C
Before you even think about installing a cam. You need to get rid of those 2.73 gears and the stock converter. A high stall T/C and 3.42 or 3.73 gears will give your car a tremendous performance boost. You need a T/C and gears to get the best performance and good driveability with a bigger cam.

Since you don't plan on racing, the Yank SS3200 and 3.42 gears would be a great street combo. Excluding nitrous nothing will give you the same performance boost as a T/C and gears in an A4.
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Old Jun 19, 2005 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Mitch C
As I said earlier you can get away with running a stock T/C with a 224/224 cam. However you are leaving a ton of performance on the table by running a stock T/C. Whether you plan on racing or not a T/C will greatly improve your cars performance from a standstill or a roll. IMO it makes no sense to do an internal mod like installing a bigger cam. If you are going to have a very hard time running with internally stock bolt on cars with a high stall T/C.
But it just gives you better performance from a roll if you at a really low speed. If you're running 60mph and get WOT it wont give you better performance I think. Or am I wrong?
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Old Jun 19, 2005 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by donscheffler
But it just gives you better performance from a roll if you at a really low speed. If you're running 60mph and get WOT it wont give you better performance I think. Or am I wrong?
You are wrong. A high stall T/C will get rid of the dead spots you get in acceleration. Like when you go WOT at 35-45 MPH. In fact a good T/C will give you better acceleration at any speed than the stock T/C.

The stock T/C is designed for economy not performance. It is designed to help keep your engine in the lower part of the power band for better economy. When you install a bigger cam like the 224/224 the last thing you want is a converter that makes it more difficult to get into the upper part of the power band quickly where the bigger cam is making its power.

A high stall T/C also has much higher shift extensions than the stock T/C. Every time your tranny shifts at WOT a high stall T/C does not allow your RPM to fall back as low in the next gear as the stock T/C does. Your engine is making more HP at higher RPM so your acceleration will be faster in the next gear because of the higher shift extensions. Because of its smaller size a high stall T/C can weigh up to 23 lbs. less than the stock T/C. A lighter T/C will help your engine rev faster promoting faster acceleration. Not to mention the fact that you are getting rid 23 lbs. of unsprung weight.

Last edited by Mitch C; Jun 20, 2005 at 07:44 AM.
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