Guy's I need Help, Engine Knocking is Breaking My Heart!
I've wanted a Vette ever since my first muscle car back in the early seventies but could never afford one. Had to settle for what was affordable. Drove my first C5 a few years back, Loved it, so my wife and I found a way to Finally afford an 2003 Corvette. Ok, enough of the cry baby stuff.
Now you can imagine my disappointment. We hardly drive this car much. Only has 7500 miles on it. I love this car but I'm actually considering selling when I really don't want to.
The knocking lasts (at idle or high idle) as far as driving to the grocery store about a mile and a quarter away! When the motor is at idle before I shut it off, it still sounds the same. After driving for a few miles you can't hear the knocking anymore. Get this, what's really strange is after the hot engine is shut off for a half hour/45 minutes, anywhere up to 2-3 hours, then restart it , the knocking is louder!
I've read about new engines with piston slap. Someone on the forum mentioned something about knocking was a result of an oil pump O-ring??
I really could use some expert advise from you seasoned Corvette owners out there.
I think this should be a warranty issue. I can't believe this is normal .
It knocks when cold because the high-performance pistons haven't come up to temp yet, i.e. the haven't expanded to thier final dimention..
So think about that above sentence; they could make the pistons larger, or the bores tighter, but that could a: rob horsepower, or b: cause excessive wear when up to temp and running hard.
These motors (compared to the competition anyway) are making decent power, still meet emissions and get good gas mileage as well.
Try to think of this "issue" as a trade-off for having a car that kicks *** once it's warmed up. Hope that helps.
I've wanted a Vette ever since my first muscle car back in the early seventies but could never afford one. Had to settle for what was affordable. Drove my first C5 a few years back, Loved it, so my wife and I found a way to Finally afford an 2003 Corvette. Ok, enough of the cry baby stuff.
Now you can imagine my disappointment. We hardly drive this car much. Only has 7500 miles on it. I love this car but I'm actually considering selling when I really don't want to.
The knocking lasts (at idle or high idle) as far as driving to the grocery store about a mile and a quarter away! When the motor is at idle before I shut it off, it still sounds the same. After driving for a few miles you can't hear the knocking anymore. Get this, what's really strange is after the hot engine is shut off for a half hour/45 minutes, anywhere up to 2-3 hours, then restart it , the knocking is louder!
I've read about new engines with piston slap. Someone on the forum mentioned something about knocking was a result of an oil pump O-ring??
I really could use some expert advise from you seasoned Corvette owners out there.
I think this should be a warranty issue. I can't believe this is normal .
The following info was found at this link. http://www.motorage.com/motorage/art...l.jsp?id=54994
2001-03 Corvette, Camaro/Firebird, C/K Trucks with V8 engine
Engine knocking that sounds like a collapsed lifter may be caused by a cut O-ring in the oil pump. The noise will be noticed when the car (or engine) is brand new and may be heard when the engine is cold, seem to diminish, then return as the engine warms up. The O-ring seal between the oil pump and the pick-up screen may be cut, causing aeration of the oil. The bulletin lists part numbers but no repair instructions.
Bulletin 02-06-01-038
Here's another link to look at.
http://www.rjsmith.com/gm-1206539.html
I would advise getting an extended warranty. Fitchner has very good prices.
Last edited by Korreck; Jun 18, 2005 at 07:58 AM.
I have the exact same issue with my 2002 with 12k miles. I was concerned about the TSB concerning the oil pump cut "O"-ring and took it to the dealer to make sure my concerns were documented, just to be safe. I also ensured the dealer referenced the TSB on my work order for "CYA" in case the "O"-ring turns out to be the cause (my warranty expires in Apr 06). However, I agree with the dealer and believe it is piston slap. Mine too sounds worse after the car sits for an hour or two and then is restarted. My novice guess is that the pistons cool faster than the cylinders, aggravating the "slap". However, when fully warmed she screams like a banshee! I love the car and it is just something I will live with. Also, my Borla exhaust hides most of the "slap" anyway.
I don't feel it's the "O"-ring because oil aeration (fancy word for oil foaming) should most likely result in noise even after the egine reaches normal operating temp. I would recommend a warranty visit to the dealer to make sure this is documented. Make sure he references the TSB on the work order and if he says it's engine knock make sure he states on the work order that the noise is not being caused by the cut "O"-ring. If he's wrong, this will give you legal recourse even after the basic warranty is expired. Also, ditto on purchasing an extended warranty.
If you are not already aware, head for http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...dgebase/browse categories/1997 - 2004 corvettes/engine - mechanical for a list of all TSBs, including the oil pump.
My final advise is relax and enjoy the 'vette. It's an american car so it's going to have some engineering issues!
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Last edited by Korreck; Jun 18, 2005 at 09:48 AM.
I would take that car to a few places and get it really checked out before that warrenty is up
To Dan the C5 man - Yes, I agree, these cars do run well!
To Korreck, Bob - No PCM codes. Thanks for the links, interesting!
To decoffee - Sorry to hear that you have possibly the same problem I do. I've got to admit that your story makes me feel like I'm not alone going nuts with this knocking issue. Interesting that yours too is louder after restarting a warm motor. Your idea makes sense, cooler pistons with warmer cylinders. I was thinking along the same lines too. But at the same time it's also hard to imagine that there would be that much of a temp. variance within different parts inside a sealed motor to make the clearances that much greater resulting in a louder knocking. Crazy!
PS - For some reason I couldn't open that link. I'll try later...
Thanks Guys...
I would take that car to a few places and get it really checked out before that warrenty is up
If you think you have actual pinging then the first thing you need to do is find someone that has a scanner that will monitor your knock sensors to see of what your hearing is really knock. If it is knock the first thing you need to do is a top end cleaning. I would also do an injector flush and change plugs to one level cooler plug. I noticed that you in AZ, freaking hotter than the face of the sun area. I would have a tuner check your AF ratio. I find that the cars PCM tends to run a little on the lean side so richening it up through the power band a bit will not only yield more power the extra gas acts as a cooling agent and keeps true pining down. Put in a 170 stat and have your tuner turn on the fans earlier so as to keep the engine about 10 degrees cooler. Next I would add "Water Wetter". This stuff is magic in how it helps the efficiency of the cooling system. My suspicion is your running hot which will cause pinging at even the lowest speeds and load.
I kind of doubt that you have pinging since you said you only have 7K on the car.
Last edited by Honez; Jun 18, 2005 at 11:49 AM.
If you think you have actual pinging then the first thing you need to do is find someone that has a scanner that will monitor your knock sensors to see of what your hearing is really knock. If it is knock the first thing you need to do is a top end cleaning. I would also do an injector flush and change plugs to one level cooler plug. I noticed that you in AZ, freaking hotter than the face of the sun area. I would have a tuner check your AF ratio. I find that the cars PCM tends to run a little on the lean side so richening it up through the power band a bit will not only yield more power the extra gas acts as a cooling agent and keeps true pining down. Put in a 170 stat and have your tuner turn on the fans earlier so as to keep the engine about 10 degrees cooler. Next I would add "Water Wetter". This stuff is magic in how it helps the efficiency of the cooling system. My suspicion is your running hot which will cause pinging at even the lowest speeds and load.
I kind of doubt that you have pinging since you said you only have 7K on the car.
AF has been checked by Xtreme Motosports at about 4500 miles. Also has a 160 stat w/ fans reprogramed starting up about 192-194 degrees. Otherwise the engine is stock and doesn't leak or burn a drop of oil.
This might be interesting: One time, a few thousand miles back, when I started the car after a (approx.) 5 week sit, It made a helluva valve train bang noise. My Wife, not knowing much about cars except put gas in and go, said "WHAT WAS THAT!". In short I replied way too dry lifters(or so I thought).
Possible a bent push rod?
The knocking noise appears deeper than up top and on the drivers side. But that might not mean anything either as we all know how sound can travel.
Ugh!
AF has been checked by Xtreme Motosports at about 4500 miles. Also has a 160 stat w/ fans reprogramed starting up about 192-194 degrees. Otherwise the engine is stock and doesn't leak or burn a drop of oil.
This might be interesting: One time, a few thousand miles back, when I started the car after a (approx.) 5 week sit, It made a helluva valve train bang noise. My Wife, not knowing much about cars except put gas in and go, said "WHAT WAS THAT!". In short I replied way too dry lifters(or so I thought).
Possible a bent push rod?
The knocking noise appears deeper than up top and on the drivers side. But that might not mean anything either as we all know how sound can travel.
Ugh!
Now is the time to take action to protect yourself. Good luck and let us know how you came out with this problem, When the engine is well warmed up, it sounds nice and normal.
Maybe I'll just wait until August when the new LS7 crate motors are available!!!
When the engine is well warmed up, it sounds nice and normal.
Maybe I'll just wait until August when the new LS7 crate motors are available!!!

We both agreed that we would not want a GM dealer installing new pistons even if they begged me to do it. That would just be asking for more problems.
I think I'll proceed with the mods I was planning.
Thanks for your input guys!
PS - I wouldn't mind if Dave Hill read this, called me up, and asked me if I would be kind enough to accept one of his new LS7 crate engines for my coupe.... Dave, are you listening ?!?!?!














