Help with DIC Code P1416
#1
Help with DIC Code P1416
I've gotten this code (P1416) two days in a row (I checked and cleared it after the first day) on the way home from work after about 30 minutes of in town and highway driving. The code is displayed as history and current and the check engine light remains on. There are no noticable performance issues. My code breaker cheat sheet says this code means "Secondary Air Injection (AIR) System Bank 2" and I do not have a clue what this really means. If anybody out there can give me some more info or check the factory manual for me I would appreciate it. Thanks.
Also, this is a stock 98 LS1.
Also, this is a stock 98 LS1.
#5
Racer
thread
I have had this code sporatically myself.... it indicates a sticky check valve in the emission system.
Here's a great thread with some help and pics..
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1013057
I haven't replaced the valves yet... may try to spray them first.
Here's a great thread with some help and pics..
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1013057
I haven't replaced the valves yet... may try to spray them first.
#6
Donmak,
I believe that when you compose a message, there is "brouse" button at the bottom that you ccan use to attach a file. I haven't used this before but there is a write up in the FAQ section at the top of the page. Thanks
I believe that when you compose a message, there is "brouse" button at the bottom that you ccan use to attach a file. I haven't used this before but there is a write up in the FAQ section at the top of the page. Thanks
#8
Tech Contributor
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St. Jude Donor '08
There are TWO Air System Check Valves. One on the drivers side which is EASY to get to and change. The other one is located behind the intake manifold and is a BITCH to change. The DTC code that you have indicates that the one that is stuck shut is on the RIGHT exhaust manifold and thta one is the difficult one to get to.
Here is a picture of the left side AIR Check valve:
The hose from the pump splits at a "Y" fitting and goes to the check valve behind the intake manifold.
This is the flange where the passengers side AIR fitting enters the exhaust manifold:
If you would like to conduct an expierment and save some money, try this. Disconnect the rubber hose at the "Y" fitting and spray a good shot of WD-40 into the hose. Use a pressureized air source set at about 30-40 psi and attach the outlet of the air source to the rubber fitting that goes to the chack valve so that all of the air and pressure goes through the hose and check valve. I use electrical tape wrapped around the air chuck to fill in the gap around the insie of the hose.
Spray a good shot of pressurized air/WD-40 through the check valve and hook everything back up. That should dislodge,clean and lubricate the diaphram inside the check valve so that it wont stick for a long time. If that does not work, just replace the valve. You only wasted a little bit of time. If it works, you saved A LOT OF TIME and money!
Please let us know what you decid to do and how it worked out.
Bill Curlee
Here is a picture of the AIR pump that is located under the drivers side headlight area.
Here is a picture of the left side AIR Check valve:
The hose from the pump splits at a "Y" fitting and goes to the check valve behind the intake manifold.
This is the flange where the passengers side AIR fitting enters the exhaust manifold:
If you would like to conduct an expierment and save some money, try this. Disconnect the rubber hose at the "Y" fitting and spray a good shot of WD-40 into the hose. Use a pressureized air source set at about 30-40 psi and attach the outlet of the air source to the rubber fitting that goes to the chack valve so that all of the air and pressure goes through the hose and check valve. I use electrical tape wrapped around the air chuck to fill in the gap around the insie of the hose.
Spray a good shot of pressurized air/WD-40 through the check valve and hook everything back up. That should dislodge,clean and lubricate the diaphram inside the check valve so that it wont stick for a long time. If that does not work, just replace the valve. You only wasted a little bit of time. If it works, you saved A LOT OF TIME and money!
Please let us know what you decid to do and how it worked out.
Bill Curlee
Here is a picture of the AIR pump that is located under the drivers side headlight area.
#9
AIR Check Valve Maintenance
I took Bill's advide and disconnected the rubber hose going to the check valves, plugged the hose going to bank 1 and used a little WD40 and low pressure air to send it to the bank 2 valve. This was real easy and certainly worth the effort. I also used a wooden dowel and a few taps with a hammer on the valve for good measure. I started the car and the check engine light did not come on but I guess I'll find out on my way to work in the morning.
I hope this works because that valve is way back there behind the intake and numerous other hoses, etc. If it dosen't work, I'll have my mechanic replace the valve, it looks too aggravating for me.
I hope this works because that valve is way back there behind the intake and numerous other hoses, etc. If it dosen't work, I'll have my mechanic replace the valve, it looks too aggravating for me.
#10
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St. Jude Donor '08
EXCELLENT!! Please let me know how the expierment worked out!
Thanks
Bill
Thanks
Bill
#11
Bill,
No codes this morning or afternoon on the work drive. It looks like your suggestion was right on. Only about 20 minutes of work (although I did spend the next few hours detailing the engine compartment, interior and an exterior wash). Thanks a lot!
No codes this morning or afternoon on the work drive. It looks like your suggestion was right on. Only about 20 minutes of work (although I did spend the next few hours detailing the engine compartment, interior and an exterior wash). Thanks a lot!
#12
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St. Jude Donor '08
Just call it the CURLEE PROCEDURE! Got a get credit for something!!! I just hope it helps some of the forum members save some money and get a Corvette Tax break!!
If you ever look inside one of those check valves you would see why I recommended the procedure. All that is in there is a diaphram, spring and a seat.
If it gets gunked up, even a new one will stick. Cant see spending $100 just for a stickey valve. If I can save a buck on a part, I will. That more money for more useful improvements.
I might make a Tech Tip. That may help someone in the future.
Bill
If you ever look inside one of those check valves you would see why I recommended the procedure. All that is in there is a diaphram, spring and a seat.
If it gets gunked up, even a new one will stick. Cant see spending $100 just for a stickey valve. If I can save a buck on a part, I will. That more money for more useful improvements.
I might make a Tech Tip. That may help someone in the future.
Bill